1977 2f front oil leak (1 Viewer)

[isuras2]

Blue loctite or blue sealant (RTV)? Or is the blue loctite the sealant too?

 

[73FJ40]

Blue loctite or blue sealant (RTV)? Or is the blue loctite the sealant too?

Blue loctite is what Poser recommended. The OEM bolts have a blue thread sealer already applied.

No one has recommended blue RTV.

 

[isuras2]

Ok. Blue Loctite it is.

 

[emac]

I used permatex high temp thread sealant.

 

[Will Van]

Reviving an old thread.

The front of my motor is leaking oil too. I've got the timing cover off, and it looks like PO installed RTV, not a paper gasket, on both the timing cover and the front plate. I'm debating if I should go ahead and pull the camshaft and replace with a proper paper gasket since I'm already here.

I'll go ahead and replace the timing cover oil/crank seal while I have it off.

Does this look like the correct gasket for the timing cover? It's a rubber material, like RTV, not a paper gasket.

I assume I need to rotate the motor to TDC, then pull the dizzy? Where is a good source for an OEM repair manual?

 

[emac]

http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/1975%202f%20Motor%20FSM.pdf

There are a couple of little tips to doing the front gasket. Sealant on the bottom two bolts, put crank pulley on before torquing the cover bolts. This lets the crank pulley center on the front seal. Squirter direction, cover bolt lengths also. Several threads on all of this. Just trying to hit some highlights. Take your time, and do it right once.

 

[Advrider639]

Yup. I recently had to take the time and correctly fix my issue. First time I have had a garage in three years so great time to do it. Overall nothing was too difficult.

Go slow, clean everything well. Use toyota gaskets. Use new bolts (proper length). Convert the flat head plate screws to hex. Keep all yo crap in the same order you pulled it out in. Thread sealer on bottom two bolts.


You can do it!

 

[mrldcty]

Resurrecting this old thread with a related question: I needed to replace my TC, so out came the trans, TC, clutch, pan, rear main seal, pilot bearing... basically everything aft of the timing gear plate. Since I had the aft crankshaft bearing cap off to replace the seal, it made it easier to get the rock-hard old cork gasket out of that groove it lives in. What about the front cap? Can I take out the bottom two bolts on the timing gear cover and the two cap bolts and remove that, clean it up, and put it back without compromising the timing gear seals? It kinda looks like the pan gasket fits between the cap and the timing gear plate, or is there a "full groove" in the cap like the rear has?

Or should I bight the bullet and service the timing cover and front main seal while I'm at it? If I just do the pan gasket for now, will I mess it up if I do the timing gear cover later?

Can't seem to find a diagram or pic that shows just how the pan gasket tucks in the front.

 

[fyton2v]

If the gaskets between the cover and timing plate, and between the plate and the block, haven’t been replaced … they’ll leak eventually. Or they already are. If by chance the coolant is drained it would save you hassle down the road to do it now. You should replace the timing cover seal while you’re in there, too. If the coolant isn’t drained and you aren’t up for several more hours of downtime, kick it down the road.

 

[mrldcty]

There is a ton of gunk on the front of the engine, mostly down low. So, my logic is to do the pan now, removing the front cap to get the old gasket material out and make sure those two bottom timing cover bolts have sealer when they go back in. Clean up the front as much as possible in the process, get it back together and running and then determine it is leaking from somewhere around the timing cover.

You answer implies that I can do this without having to re-do the pan gasket if I decide down the road to re-seal the timing cover. It's not the delay that bugs me... it's trying to change the plate gasket, which by all accounts is a PITA regardless if you pull the cam gear or the valve train.

So: Can I remove and replace that front cap without damaging/compromising the timing gaskets/seal?

 

[fyton2v]

Yeah, you can do it without messing around with the oil pan. It is still a pain though, but if I can do it, you can do it. There is a lot of info on this forum about using FIPG, and beware of that oil squirter. This is one of those jobs where keeping track of which bolts go where and following the instructions in the FSM are very important. Many of the bolts have very low torque requirements.

It’s not crazy complicated. It’s just a pain and may require more than one try. Buy extra gaskets .

 

[mrldcty]

Sometimes you just need to learn the hard way.