1976 FJ40 : key turn = nothing (1 Viewer)

[iliketomakestuff]

Last week, it was running fine, and would start right up.
Over the past several months, every once in a while (and now every time), it does nothing when I turn the key. I could come back in the evening and it would crank like normal.

These days, it's a no go.
The ONLY thing that happens when I turn the key is that the ammeter drops.

So far, I've changed/tested these things.

• Replaced battery
• Replaced starter & solenoid (non OEM)
• Checked continuity from starter to ignition switch
• Replaced ignition switch (OEM)
• Removed fuse block and clean all terminals
• Checked fuses
• Removed and cleaned main body ground
• Fusible link is good

Any other ideas?

 

[B y r o n]

Have you checked the fusible link?

 

[iliketomakestuff]

Have you checked the fusible link?

yeah, all good (will update above)

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Remove starter and bench test it to see of it fires. Also check grounds

 

[South Texas 97]

Set up a volt meter and see if you are getting 12 volts (or better said full battery voltage) when you turn the key, at the solenoid on the starter.

The ammeter dropping indicates there is a load somewhere in the system. occasionally even new starters/solenoids may not be functional.

Can you spin the starter with a remote start switch - battery direct to starter solenoid?

 

[jayp2]

This sounds a lot like an issue I had on my 40 many years back

Ignition key cylinder went bad and had to be replaced......went from once in a wile to total fail

 

[iliketomakestuff]

Set up a volt meter and see if you are getting 12 volts (or better said full battery voltage) when you turn the key, at the solenoid on the starter.

The ammeter dropping indicates there is a load somewhere in the system. occasionally even new starters/solenoids may not be functional.

Can you spin the starter with a remote start switch - battery direct to starter solenoid?

ok, so I checked the voltage at the end of the wire that goes into the solenoid and when cranking it was only 10.9v. It's basically a straight shot, single wire from the ignition to the solenoid, so I can replace that wire (assuming it's compromised and shorting onto something somewhere) but is there anything else I should look for first? Any of the testing i can do before running a new wire?
Thank you!!

 

[pb4ugo]

It could be the wire or the switch. You might want to check the voltage coming out of the switch. The plastic clamshell easliy comes off the column to gain access to the wires and switch. The switch is on the opposite/back side of the ing key slot. I think there's a plug just under the dash too.

 

[iliketomakestuff]

It could be the wire or the switch. You might want to check the voltage coming out of the switch. The plastic clamshell easliy comes off the column to gain access to the wires and switch. The switch is on the opposite/back side of the ing key slot. I think there's a plug just under the dash too.

Battery is at 12.6v I've got 12.0v coming into the switch, and slightly less than 10v on the switch terminal that goes to the solenoid. I swapped the ignition switch with another one I had and got the same reading.
These are both basically brand new, one is OEM, the other is not.

 

[South Texas 97]

I believe there is a couple of connectors along the way - check for green crustiness, either on the wire or in the connectors themselves. At this point my knowledge is limited, you can ping @Coolerman or @ToyotaMatt for a deeper understanding of what may be happening.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Last week, it was running fine, and would start right up.
Over the past several months, every once in a while (and now every time), it does nothing when I turn the key. I could come back in the evening and it would crank like normal.

These days, it's a no go.
The ONLY thing that happens when I turn the key is that the ammeter drops.

So far, I've changed/tested these things.

• Replaced battery
• Replaced starter & solenoid (non OEM)
• Checked continuity from starter to ignition switch
• Replaced ignition switch (OEM)
• Removed fuse block and clean all terminals
• Checked fuses
• Removed and cleaned main body ground
• Fusible link is good

Any other ideas?

- can u post a photo PLEASE of both the battery cable and IGN, switch black wire w/ white tracer stripe at the starter motor itself

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH battery cables at the top of the batter at both terminals

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH ENDS of NEG - side battery cable after they branch off and to where they finally both go and what there bolted to at end of run LUG ?

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH ENDS of your CABLE bond. no. 1 / #1 / grounding strap at the starter motor and frame rail mounting locations ...


- if you answer to any of the above questions is " No, i don't have one of those " then this is where we start to find your issues .............


- so , chop chop H55F fast , snap some good close up clear photos , and lets collectively examine your TECH photos...

- some of MUD's wisest Technical minds are here to help you , like mr. @pb4ugo & mr. @South Texas 97 , and mr. @ceylonfj40nut most of all he specializes in making other TOYOTA land Cruiser parts work well .....


- THIS IS THE WAY ...

 

[iliketomakestuff]

- can u post a photo PLEASE of both the battery cable and IGN, switch black wire w/ white tracer stripe at the starter motor itself

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH battery cables at the top of the batter at both terminals

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH ENDS of NEG - side battery cable after they branch off and to where they finally both go and what there bolted to at end of run LUG ?

- can u post a photo PLEASE of BOTH ENDS of your CABLE bond. no. 1 / #1 / grounding strap at the starter motor and frame rail mounting locations ...


- if you answer to any of the above questions is " No, i don't have one of those " then this is where we start to find your issues .............


- so , chop chop H55F fast , snap some good close up clear photos , and lets collectively examine your TECH photos...

- some of MUD's wisest Technical minds are here to help you , like mr. @pb4ugo & mr. @South Texas 97 , and mr. @ceylonfj40nut most of all he specializes in making other TOYOTA land Cruiser parts work well .....


- THIS IS THE WAY ...

Turns out I do NOT have a ground strap from the starter.
Also, after a weekend away, I tested the truck and it started right up.... really cool, but also really frustrating.

 

[iliketomakestuff]

Since the last post, I have...
Bench tested the starter
added a ground strap from the starter to the frame
Replaced the wire from the ignition switch to the starter

No change.

I am getting 12v at the end of the wire (BW) that plugs into the starter when I crank, but the starter does nothing. On the bench, directly to the battery it worked as it should.

Please, any more ideas from anyone?

 

[South Texas 97]

When you bench tested the starter were you going via the solenoid, or just direct to the big lead on the starter?
if you have all of this tested, it must be the solenoid that is bad.

 

[iliketomakestuff]

I did test to the solenoid, but even in the vehicle it will occasionally work correctly. So maybe the solenoid is just being inconsistent?
It sucks because it's brand new but I do have the original Toyota starter still, I can throw it back in and see what happens.
Replacing the starter was one of the first things I did when it started acting up.