1976 FJ40 First Post Looking for Help (1 Viewer)

[ThatGuy101]

I have just acquired a '76 that has been sitting outside for 15 years and definitely looks it. I would love to get this thing up and running again, but do not know where to start. I am in the Oklahoma City area and would like to find a local expert to help steer me in the right direction. Has the original engine with very low miles for this old of a vehicle. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Nice!! Welcome!!

Try posting in the OK Clubhouse: OK- Green Country Cruisers

You should be able to find someone local to you who can guide you in your adventure.

 

[mrboatman]

Contact Toyota Land Cruiser Parts they are in ok city and are a great group to work with. And Welcome to the fun !!
JP

 

[troy scott]

cruiser corps also in oklahoma city

 

[Martyt]

Second Cruiser Corps--great folks to deal with!!!

 

[thebigredrocker]

If it has been sitting uncovered, chances are the tranny has water in it. Water runs down the shift cane. Get a bucket ready and crack open the upper fill plug.

I would love to get this thing up and running again, but do not know where to start.

If you don’t have gobs of money to hire a mechanic. Learn how to do everything yourself. Buy a used Haynes manual. Everything you need to know is waiting for you on this site. Get good at the search function. e.g. When you need to know about something electrical related, type your keywords and posted by Coolerman or Bj40green. Need to know about carbs, distributors, hesitations while accelerating, or valve adjustments? Easy... Type the keywords and anything posted by: 65swb45 or FJ40Jim

Assuming the motor isn’t seized, the first thing to do is go through the braking system. Pull your master and rear drum cylinders apart. If they aren’t pitted, hone them and plop in new seals. Replace cracked rubber brake lines. Buy a good line wrench so you don’t strip brake line nuts. If a nut won’t budge, don’t force it, use heat(small butane torch).

Another tedious must-do
Clean up every electrical connection. Fuse block, bullet connectors, ect. Grounds are critical. Learn about them.
Read Coolerman’s post the “turn signal troubleshoot” thread. He explains how and why indicators/hazards are current driven. Screenshot below shows how to find it:

Most other cruiser bolts will also require heat prior to removal. Many folks on this site use a “shake-n-break”, you can find a “shake-n-break” demo on youtube. Others use an old fashioned hammer powered impact tool. If you do break a bolt don’t use a cheap screw extractor, I prefer left handed drill bits. Broken bolts eat up valueable time so don’t break any

Post up some engine bay pictures

 

[Cruiser Corps]

Welcome to the addiction!!!

We are located in OKC at 2727 W. Reno. Come on by and I will show you around.

I am not sure how I missed that one! I thought I bought them all??? How did that one go under my radar!

Call or text me when you get a chance.

Mike
405-863-3393

 

[Martyt]

And, we need to see way more pictures--we like pictures; pictures of the interior and engine (we really like engine pictures) and the bezel--need to make sure that is not upside down--no way your rig will run if that is messed up. Welcome to MUD. You will find lots of good advice including from the previous poster, thebigredrocker, as well as Mark (Mark's Offroad) and if you care at all about providence and originality, LivingInThePast and Poser can tell you more than many. Good luck on your money pit (they all are) but I have never had this much fun spending money (well, almost). Martin

 

[hooter]

NICE!!

add "new rear shackles" to your to-do list.

 

[65swb45]

NICE!!

add "REAL rear shackles" to your to-do list.

Fixed it for you.

 

[ThatGuy101]

Thanks for all of the quick responses. Even the one about the bezel. I am obviously in the right place.
Mike, I will give you a call some time this week and see what steps to take first.

Thanks again guys, looks like you have a great community going here.