Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[DangerNoodle]

The most important part right now is the concentricity. How is the fit on the output shaft? And the input of the ToyBox? A weep hole will help keep the spline wear down.

Mike

They don't fit super tight, which is why I believe the bearing exists. Normally, the shaft is bolted through the input gear of the t-case, and they still have the bearing, so I assume that it probably would need it.

I'm not sure how well the splines fit into the toybox, but it should be a good fit. I would need to trim the shaft to see that.

 

[Godfather90]

They don't fit super tight, which is why I believe the bearing exists. Normally, the shaft is bolted through the input gear of the t-case, and they still have the bearing, so I assume that it probably would need it.

I'm not sure how well the splines fit into the toybox, but it should be a good fit. I would need to trim the shaft to see that.

Is the bearing on the AA tail housing side or in the marlin ToyBox adapter side?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Is the bearing on the AA tail housing side or in the marlin ToyBox adapter side?

It is on the AA bellhousing side.

 

[Godfather90]

It is on the AA bellhousing side.

That makes sense. That is because the transmission output shaft typically supports the input gear of the transfer case. When you have that adapter shaft you have to support it on both ends.

The RF1A has it's own bearings on both sides of the input so this bearing becomes unnecessary.

Does that make sense?

Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

That makes sense. That is because the transmission output shaft typically supports the input gear of the transfer case. When you have that adapter shaft you have to support it on both ends.

The RF1A has it's own bearings on both sides of the input so this bearing becomes unnecessary.

Does that make sense?

Mike

It does. I guess I didn't look at the RF1A too well. Would it not help to have the support though?

 

[Godfather90]

It does. I guess I didn't look at the RF1A too well. Would it not help to have the support though?

I'm not really sure. I probably wouldn't run it. It's just another bearing to spin that will never be loaded up.

Wyell just have to see how it all fits together.

Does the machinist have everything he needs to check the concentricity?

I'm would put a lot of emphasis on this. It will kind of make or break it.

Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

I'm not really sure. I probably wouldn't run it. It's just another bearing to spin that will never be loaded up.

Wyell just have to see how it all fits together.

Does the machinist have everything he needs to check the concentricity?

I'm would put a lot of emphasis on this. It will kind of make or break it.

Mike

He does. He is pretty well known for custom stuff for offroading. I'll talk to him tomorrow and see what he says. Hopefully, it will all work out.

 

[Paul]

Ok. So I’m just about done with the frame.
I just decided kinda to 3 link the front end instead of the SOA. The rear is 4 linked with coils.
Looking for some guidance and encouragement as well as suggestions on kits available like the one offered from RuffStuff. I want to put the full tub back on and with replacement coilovers and wondering how that will work. Thanks in advance. BTW I will need a fj60 axle housing for the front 3link and coil over

 

[DangerNoodle]

Ok. So I’m just about done with the frame.
I just decided kinda to 3 link the front end instead of the SOA. The rear is 4 linked with coils.
Looking for some guidance and encouragement as well as suggestions on kits available like the one offered from RuffStuff. I want to put the full tub back on and with replacement coilovers and wondering how that will work. Thanks in advance. BTW I will need a fj60 axle housing for the front 3link and coil over

View attachment 2532115

View attachment 2532116

I used a TMR customs kit. I liked it better than the ruff stuff kit because it uses Johnny Joints instead of Hiems.

Here are my numbers.

 

[Paul]

Cool. Which kit did you go with from TMR Customs?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Cool. Which kit did you go with from TMR Customs?

Universal 3 Link Kit (OPTION 1)

OPTION 1 - THE ORIGINAL TMR LINK KIT WITH 1 PIECE/INTEGRATED FRAME SIDE BRACKETS TO ALLOW FOR THE EASIEST INSTALL! TMR Customs universal link kits have been designed with the latest CAD Software, and all the components are manufactured from the highest grade materials. This kit is ideal for...

www.tmrcustoms.com

The johnny joints are rebuildable and greaseable, so much better overall than the heims. Worth the slight extra for the longevity of them.

 

[Paul]

DJ- would you please post or pm me some photos of your 3 link set up. Thanks. Paul

 

[DangerNoodle]

DJ- would you please post or pm me some photos of your 3 link set up. Thanks. Paul

Pages 13 and 14. Let me know if you want any other pictures.

 

[Paul]

Thanks DJ

 

[DangerNoodle]

Thanks DJ

No problem!

 

[DangerNoodle]

Here is a quick update for the past couple of days.

I got the engine and trans mated, along with with clutch and flywheel, so that is in for good.

That got dumped into the frame.

I went over to @cbmontgo 's house, and poked around his stock 76 to look at smog stuff. Thanks, Carson.


I then got the garage orgnized since it looked like a bomb went off in it. The rush to get everthing painted before it got too cold made everything a mess.

 

[White Stripe]

Smog in Colorado is based on the engine the vehicle has. So if for example your v8 is from a 1984 chevy pickup, it must have whatever smog was on the 1984 chevy pickup. Being that it's a 350, it's most likely it will require the full Monte of emissions-air pump, egr, evap, and cats. But to know for sure you look at the number on the block and look up what model chevy it's from. A LS motor usually only needs cats and evap.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Smog in Colorado is based on the engine the vehicle has. So if for example your v8 is from a 1984 chevy pickup, it must have whatever smog was on the 1984 chevy pickup. Being that it's a 350, it's most likely it will require the full Monte of emissions-air pump, egr, evap, and cats. But to know for sure you look at the number on the block and look up what model chevy it's from. A LS motor usually only needs cats and evap.

This is what I have. I'm pretty sure it is a crate engine. 10243880 Small Block V8 1995-1999 350, 4 bolt, crate engines and ZZ4, roller cam, one piece rear seal.

 

[White Stripe]

I do not believe that zz4 motor was ever in a production vehicle and only available as a non emission compliant crate motor, similar to the ram jet crate motors. If that is the case I don't know how you will or if you can make that motor pass smog. I would imagine to make a 350 pass smog, you would need a block from a production vehicle or one of gm's emission certified crate motors like a erod. Take this with a grain of salt as this is on the outer edges of my Colorado emissions laws knowledge. If you wanted it to pass smog, AFAIK you could take all the parts from your motor and put them in a production block. Would just need to have it bored to your pistons. Then add the emissions on top of that. I may be wrong on this.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I do not believe that zz4 motor was ever in a production vehicle and only available as a non emission compliant crate motor, similar to the ram jet crate motors. If that is the case I don't know how you will or if you can make that motor pass smog. I would imagine to make a 350 pass smog, you would need a block from a production vehicle or one of gm's emission certified crate motors like a erod. Take this with a grain of salt as this is on the outer edges of my Colorado emissions laws knowledge. If you wanted it to pass smog, AFAIK you could take all the parts from your motor and put them in a production block. Would just need to have it bored to your pistons. Then add the emissions on top of that. I may be wrong on this.

Hopefully, I'll never have to pass emissions, but I'm not paying to have a new block done. I don't know though.