Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[DangerNoodle]

or just trade them to someone with an 80 plus money on their end. I’m sure you would have plenty of 80 owners lined up to do that. 4.11’s are stronger anyways

True, but I don't have the tools to reinstall gears, so I'd be paying someone to do it a second time.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Maybe call aa and see if they have any rf1a nv4500 adapters in stock that aren't listed anymore. That's exactly what you need.

Mike

I was originally thinking that, but the problem with that is the strange combination of gears in the toybox. I don't think they are making one anymore, and it would only work on the 21 or 23 spline male input that those cases seem to have. I think it is going to be easier to just make an adapter plate.

 

[cruisermatt]

True, but I don't have the tools to reinstall gears, so I'd be paying someone to do it a second time.

just trade the whole thirds...
gears are easy to do yourself though

 

[DangerNoodle]

just trade the whole thirds...

Both of mine have ARBs.

 

[archie73]

why are you not just using the SM465?!
That will get you more driveline length then the the NV4500 and whatever adapter you come up with for that.

Just put 4.11’s back in the axles and you’ll have plenty of highway gearing with 37’s.

I want the 5 speed. Plus, it's something that I kinda want to try and adapt anyway. I really couldn't road this thing with the SM. my gearing would be way too low.

There’s a long list of people that’ll disagree with that, including me. I drive mine on the road than the trail and its good. Refined? No- but its a cruiser. In all seriousness, there are lot of square body chevies that run 33"-40" tires. Highway and trail miles. Just my opinion, do-as you see see fit.

 

[Godfather90]

I was originally thinking that, but the problem with that is the strange combination of gears in the toybox. I don't think they are making one anymore, and it would only work on the 21 or 23 spline male input that those cases seem to have. I think it is going to be easier to just make an adapter plate.
[/QUOTE

I was originally thinking that, but the problem with that is the strange combination of gears in the toybox. I don't think they are making one anymore, and it would only work on the 21 or 23 spline male input that those cases seem to have. I think it is going to be easier to just make an adapter plate.

If you buy a marlin 4.7 gear set it comes with everything you would need. They have a 23 spline male input. The output shaft is not part of the gear set.


This is basically what I did.

Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

There’s a long list of people that’ll disagree with that, including me. I drive mine on the road than the trail and its good. Refined? No- but its a cruiser. In all seriousness, there are lot of square body chevies that run 33"-40" tires. Highway and trail miles. Just my opinion, do-as you see see fit.

I do agree with that, but I am really trying to get a good roadable cruiser. I have a ton of trails within ~3 hrs of me that I could get to if I can highway this thing easily. I know it could be done, but I'd be pushing 3000 rpm+ to get over 60. I know a SBC can do that, but they get pretty annoying at high rpm.

 

[DangerNoodle]

If you buy a marlin 4.7 gear set it comes with everything you would need. They have a 23 spline male input. The output shaft is not part of the gear set.


This is basically what I did.

Mike

If I could get just the output shaft, I would totally do that. If I did do that currently, I would be throwing away all the things in the toybox besides the output shaft and the toybox to t-case adapter. I just spent all this money on the new drivetrain to get the toybox, and I would then have just a few parts that I would no longer need. I really wish that I could have gone that route, but I can't get the output shafts anymore which is why I had to buy the whole damn thing. I would have loved to run the current t-case that I have as well. An adapter plate seems to be pretty easy to accomplish, but we'll just have to see.

 

[cruisermatt]

this why I almost always advise getting ring/pinions set up as the last task for a big build

 

[DangerNoodle]

this why I almost always advise getting ring/pinions set up as the last task for a big build

Rookie mistake from me. I'll be changing them once I break one. I guess it is the learning curve for the first build.

 

[Godfather90]

If I could get just the output shaft, I would totally do that. If I did do that currently, I would be throwing away all the things in the toybox besides the output shaft and the toybox to t-case adapter. I just spent all this money on the new drivetrain to get the toybox, and I would then have just a few parts that I would no longer need. I really wish that I could have gone that route, but I can't get the output shafts anymore which is why I had to buy the whole damn thing. I would have loved to run the current t-case that I have as well. An adapter plate seems to be pretty easy to accomplish, but we'll just have to see.

Just to clarify:

So if this above makes sense you can see that the input shaft is part of the input gear, but the output shaft is actually separate from the low range drive gear that rides on it.

The input is available in both 21 and 23spline in both 2.3 and 4.7 flavors new off the shelf.

The 4500 adapter probably used a sleeve coupler that was female on both sides.

The toybox input is unique in that it took the input gear which normally had a 21 or 23 spline male shaft, and it replaced it with a female that could except the transmission output.


-Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

Just to clarify:
View attachment 2527201

View attachment 2527209

So if this above makes sense you can see that the input shaft is part of the input gear, but the output shaft is actually separate from the low range drive gear that rides on it.

The input is available in both 21 and 23spline in both 2.3 and 4.7 flavors new off the shelf.

The 4500 adapter probably used a sleeve coupler that was female on both sides.

The toybox input is unique in that it took the input gear which normally had a 21 or 23 spline male shaft, and it replaced it with a female that could except the transmission output.


-Mike

That does make sense to do, but my problem would then be that I have a non functioning toybox that I just spent a ton of money on for only the output shaft and adapter plates. I really wish I could have done your method from the start, but I can't get the output shaft anywhere which is why I had to buy an entire drivetrain for it. I guess if I wanted the 4.7 gears, I would have to do it that way, or get a custom input gear made.

I'm starting to get pretty over budget here, which is also why I am trying to reuse whatever I can to make the two stick together.

I hope I am not sounding like an ass, and both you and @cruisermatt 's input and ideas have been really helpful.

-DJ

 

[Godfather90]

That does make sense to do, but my problem would then be that I have a non functioning toybox that I just spent a ton of money on for only the output shaft and adapter plates. I really wish I could have done your method from the start, but I can't get the output shaft anywhere which is why I had to buy an entire drivetrain for it. I guess if I wanted the 4.7 gears, I would have to do it that way, or get a custom input gear made.

I'm starting to get pretty over budget here, which is also why I am trying to reuse whatever I can to make the two stick together.

I hope I am not sounding like an ass, and both you and @cruiserm's input and ideas have been really helpful.

-DJ

You can always run that 4 speed for a few years.

I would still call AA and see why they pulled the rf1a adapter and try to grab one of they have it.

The most important part of the ToyBox is the output and the transfer case side adapter plate anyways.

You can probably sell that left over stuff.

Or stick to the 4500 tail housing you have and see what it looks like with a 10 spline spud shaft attached to it.

Get aa on the horn!

Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

You can always run that 4 speed for a few years.

I would still call AA and see why they pulled the rf1a adapter and try to grab one of they have it.

The most important part of the ToyBox is the output and the transfer case side adapter plate anyways.

You can probably sell that left over stuff.

Or stick to the 4500 tail housing you have and see what it looks like with a 10 spline spud shaft attached to it.

Get aa on the horn!

Mike

I just called AA and they no longer make the RF1A to any NV4500 adapter which is disappointing. I think I'm going to see what that spud shaft looks like and hope that I can get them to mash together easily.

Thanks for all the help, Mike.

 

[Godfather90]

I just called AA and they no longer make the RF1A to any NV4500 adapter which is disappointing. I think I'm going to see what that spud shaft looks like and hope that I can get them to mash together easily.

Thanks for all the help, Mike.

No leftovers or partial kits sitting around?

Bummer.

 

[DangerNoodle]

No leftovers or partial kits sitting around?

Bummer.

I guess they have been discontinued for a while. They may have stuff on the shelf, but I doubt they know what they have. That would have been an easy way to go for that.

Any ideas on the difficulty of heat treating 356-T6 aluminum? I think I may see if my machinist friend can pull a bunch off this tail housing and weld on a new plate to directly bolt on the marlin adapter plate for the toybox. I could probably modify this tail housing if the casting is pretty pure and shorten it about 2", as long as this spud shaft works.

 

[Godfather90]

I guess they have been discontinued for a while. They may have stuff on the shelf, but I doubt they know what they have. That would have been an easy way to go for that.

Any ideas on the difficulty of heat treating 356-T6 aluminum? I think I may see if my machinist friend can pull a bunch off this tail housing and weld on a new plate to directly bolt on the marlin adapter plate for the toybox. I could probably modify this tail housing if the casting is pretty pure and shorten it about 2", as long as this spud shaft works.

This is an interesting prospect.

I don't know if you would need to heat treat the aluminum for this. I would farm that job out to someone who can weld this properly.

I would imagine that AA makes only a few patterns of 4500 tail housings. Maybe you can get one that is not machined on the transfer case side and do the machining to fit your application?

Either way you need that spud to really visualize what you can and can't do. We need to know the length you're working with.

Mike

 

[DangerNoodle]

This is an interesting prospect.

I don't know if you would need to heat treat the aluminum for this. I would farm that job out to someone who can weld this properly.

I would imagine that AA makes only a few patterns of 4500 tail housings. Maybe you can get one that is not machined on the transfer case side and do the machining to fit your application?

Either way you need that spud to really visualize what you can and can't do. We need to know the length you're working with.

Mike

I'm planning on letting a professional weld this. I'm pretty sure the spud shaft is at least 5" long. I think that the stick out on the 4-speed transfer case that I was wondering about is the end of the spud shaft that mates into the transfer case.

 

[DangerNoodle]

This is an interesting prospect.

I don't know if you would need to heat treat the aluminum for this. I would farm that job out to someone who can weld this properly.

I would imagine that AA makes only a few patterns of 4500 tail housings. Maybe you can get one that is not machined on the transfer case side and do the machining to fit your application?

Either way you need that spud to really visualize what you can and can't do. We need to know the length you're working with.

Mike

Alright, I took the shaft out from the old t-case just to look at it. The 10 spline is exactly the same, but the length may be a bit different.

It looks like there is plenty of surface area to just drill and thread new holes in the adapter plate. The way the shaft mates looks like I cannot make the adapter any shorter, but I think I can just use both plates and make the 8 bolt pattern that the SM has in the tailhousing.

 

[DangerNoodle]

The combo is really long. About 32.5" without the bellhousing. I may need to push my rear axle bax some more, but I should have at least a 17" driveshaft now. A lot shorter than I would have liked, but I should be possible.