1974 FJ40...not sure what to do (1 Viewer)

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Aug 10, 2013
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So I got stupid and bought a rust heap of a fj. Has a running motor but has a ton of rust issues. Runs off of a gas can fine but not off the tank. PO cleaned the tank but didn't coat it. Does the separator have to be hooked up? I can blow air into the tank from the feed line inlet but I'm not able to get the fuel pump to suck any.

Needs new brake including the drums, couldn't turn them as they were warped.

Needs a rear spring perch as well.

Not sure where to go on this, already frustrated. I did get a ton of parts I don't need though, an axle housing with the spring over stuff already done, a header, 2 intake manifolds, rancho shocks, factory carb and some other stuff too.
 
So I got stupid and bought a rust heap of a fj. Has a running motor but has a ton of rust issues. Runs off of a gas can fine but not off the tank. PO cleaned the tank but didn't coat it. Does the separator have to be hooked up? I can blow air into the tank from the feed line inlet but I'm not able to get the fuel pump to suck any.

Needs new brake including the drums, couldn't turn them as they were warped.

Needs a rear spring perch as well.

Not sure where to go on this, already frustrated. I did get a ton of parts I don't need though, an axle housing with the spring over stuff already done, a header, 2 intake manifolds, rancho shocks, factory carb and some other stuff too.

Hey Husker!

Most all of us make impulse buys from time to time; don't let it get you down though!

Well, throw up some pics to give us all an idea of what you are working with and I am sure a few guys would be more than willing to help(with me knowledge than myself.
 
I live in Tulsa though...
image.jpg
 
I live in Tulsa though...

Im sure there is a member or two in the area.

Just from that pic doesn't look to bad, have an pics of the problem areas or the exterior?
 
That's the pretty part. Can't you tell the tunnel is a shoddy fiberglass job?
image.jpg
 
I think I found a pinhole leak in the tank as well. Any of the tulsa guys know any fuel tank guys or should I spring for a new one.
 
Get a new tank! Too many iffy's if you try to refurb the old one, plus you will never be sure. A new one will not be that more $(prob less) than the repair/clean/coat of the old one. You can start from clean and protect as you see fit.
One plus is your bezel appears to be oriented properly.
Not that bad of a rig to start with--(it's NOT a rust heap!--I've seen way worse!)! Get the basics going--fluids-oil/filter, water, grease(t-case/diffs) air cleaner/fuel filter----drive it ! See what pops up. Fix one thing at a time -get it right the first time, move to the next--the body can wait.
BTW--if you don't want the headers, let me know.
 
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You can still get a new tank from Toyota. Also, start selling the parts you don't need to fund your repairs. If you're going to completely rebuild the drum brakes, it might make more sense to install disc brakes. It's one of the best mods I ever did.
 
My advice is try to figure out what you want the end product to be. Are you aiming for a resto, every nut and bolt to factory spec jobbie or are you willing/wanting to do some custom work? If youre not reaching for the sky and planning a full blown resto. a lot of the repairs you mentioned arent too bad if you have the tools and time to fab stuff up.

My fourty was as bad as yours, if not worse (the rear shackle hangers were attached to the frame by flaky rust, what was left of the steel was the thickness of aluminum foil). The tub had 3-4 layers of bondo/steel and was falling apart. I lucked out and found a rust free tub that was partially redone with fresh steel but it isnt to oe spec by any stretch of the word (po used thicker steel to fab up the tub sheet metal and threw in a thick assed rear sill tube). I dont care since my truck isnt going back to stock, its gonna be what I want it to be.

Another example is the axles, they needed brakes and a rebuild so I found a set of sixty series axles to throw under it for an instant brake swap not to mention the wider track. Scavenged the power steering, column and a bunch more from the same sixty for peanuts compared to what it would have cost for rebuilds and whatnot.

If you keep an open mind and do some hunting through the classifieds you might luck out and find a donor vehicle or a tub like D did. And remember a welder will pay for itself after you fab up a buch of stuff for your truck that you would have had to buy and pay someone else to install..

Good luck man.

D
 
I've got access to welders. I know Dallas at big d's has a mini truck axle he will sell for 300. I'll try to get him down on it. There is a nice tub for sale except a couple panels in town but he won't split it up and have to buy 2 tubs at once.

The header at the bottom is rusty. Can get a pic later
 
Mini truck axle is centered, you need a ps offset for your fourty. You could buy the tubs, use what you need then sell the rest.

Look for a cheap assed rusted out sixty series and youll get everything you need for power steering and new axles/brakes.

D
 
Getting the axle for the front disc swap. Not sure what direction I want to go with power steering. Only have 31s on there so not to worried about it now. Anyone have any lines on any fuel tanks?
 
"Seal All" helped me get annother 15+ years out of my tank... If it's just a pin leak, it won't leak there again. Usually, there is more rust there than metal.

Some have used a GM or Heep tank in the back, under the rear.
 
Huskers: welcome. '74 is a good year. Cool Cruisers sells a pretty good repop steel tank. $234 plus shipping. Or a less expensive route - Eastwood has gas tank re-new kits I think.
This forum has really helped me with my '78 basket case ongoing re-build.
 

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