1974 FJ40 build/learning project (2 Viewers)

[bikersmurf]

No big surprise there, I found the same with my Downey mounts. Rather than 2x4s I spaced my motor up with nominal 1" material. Most of the motor instalations I've seen have the motor higher than mine... And even what you've got there. With the 700 trans, your motor is likely a little further forward (and thus higher).

Here's a thread with some pics for comparison...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html

 

[CruiserMoose]

RIght now I have the engine sitting on top of the frame on 2x4's only because the motor mounts are too wide to fit inside of the frame.

I think what I will have to do is cut the mounts off a bit so that they sit in between the frame and then adjust the height with the mounts that came with it that weld onto the frame.

This is of course assuming that the mounts go between the frame but I am pretty sure that is the case. Once I get it so that it moves up and down, I will sit the tub on to get the correct height.

 

[CruiserMoose]

OK, just went to the link that bikersmurf provided. SHould have looked at that before my last reply. Thanks!

So from those picks, it looks like the mounts on the engine sit above the frame??? So does top of the weld on mounts that go on the frame sit about even with the top of the frame? Which would make the mounts on the engine sit above the frame?

This is starting to make a little sense.

 

[bikersmurf]

Correct, I had them welded as high up as I could on the frame.

 

[CruiserMoose]

I have been doing a little research on headers/manifolds that I need to get to continue with the install of my engine.

I may have already mentioned this in the thread but the engine is a 5.3L from a 2006 Chevy Silverado, so I believe it is considered a LS1 Gen III engine. Does that sound right?

Anyway, someone suggested that I look at Sanderson Headers for the LS1 engine. Has anyone had any experience with them? I believe that this is the one that I would need.

Sanderson CC1LS1 header set for small block Chevy LS1 engines in 927-Up car and truck applications.

The collector is slightly off center so I thought I would check to see if anyone thought that would give me any issues.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Irish52084]

I used the sanderson headers on my 5.3 swap they are a nice fit. If you use the DBW call speartech and get the matal gas pedal,that way you can fab it up ti fit. you will need to have your ECM programed to work with the pedal. John knows how to do this,nice guy.

 

[cohoslider]

Block huger center dump worked perfect for mine

 

[CruiserMoose]

Thanks for your comments on the headers guys, I appreciate it.

Moving things along, last night my and my sons got the tub on the frame so that I can get the engine positioned and get the mounts welded up. It was good to see the tub on the frame, at least it makes me think that I am making some progress.

 

[CruiserMoose]

Before I do any welding, I want to pass a few measurements and pics by everyone to make sure I have the engine positioned correctly.

First the clearance. Here are a few pics of the clearance between the front and the radiator and fans.

 

[CruiserMoose]

And here are some pics and measurements of the rear of the engine and the firewall.

1 - Pic of general rear clearance
2 - Measurement of engine from firewall, the flat part.
3 - Measurement from top of engine to inside of indent

 

[CruiserMoose]

So here are my questions for you guys that know what you are doing.

1 - It looks like to me that the engine should go back furhter and fit a little tighter into the firewall??

2 - At this position, it makes my rear drives shaft approx. 27 inches and my front 32.5 inches. Is that about right?

3 - Also, it seems to me that it is not possible to align both the front and rear drive shafts straight in front of their respective output shafts on the T/C. It is close but one of them will have a slight side angle if that makes sense. Is it better to align the rear, align the front or does it matter.

4 - Also, it looks like in order to get close I will have the have the engine offset slightly to the driver side, I think that is normal right?

5 - And one last question. My front motor mounts sit in an area on the frame that does not have any holes. Should I still weld on a flat piece of steel onto the frame and then weld the mounts onto that piece or am I ok welding right to the frame. It seems like it should be OK to weld to the frame but it seems like I read somewhere that a plate was prefered.

Thank you very much for your help. I would like to get the mounts on this weekend and get started on the rear cross member.

 

[bikersmurf]

1. I'd mount it a little furer back to allow for other fan options if need be.
2. Sounds ok I think mine were around 25"
3. A slight angle shouldn't matter. I'd try to keep the rear the straightest since it'll be in use 100% of the time.
4. Slight offset is fairly normal... Just be aware of steering and exhaust clearances.
5. I'd scab it... I'm a believer in overkill...

 

[CruiserMoose]

Thanks Bikersmurf.

Anyone else? I think I will get up early tomorrow and get some things welded up before the days festivities start.

 

[bikersmurf]

One other clearance... Harmonic ballancer to 3rd member housing. I've heard of them hitting...

 

[CruiserMoose]

Made some progress this weekend. I got the mounts located where I needed them, pulled the engine, got the mounts welded and coated with rust primer. Now hopefully tomorrow I will get the engine in and bolted up and start on the rear cross member/tranny mount.

 

[burnttoastburgos]

very nice build.......i went through the same thing. "Aw, im just gonna change out a few things"........30k later !!!! Keep up the quality!!

 

[Grant4368]

Nice work. I'm taking notes for my next project.

 

[CruiserMoose]

well amongst all of the holiday celebrations I actually was able to get some work done on the 40 this weekend.

The task at hand was building the crossmember/ tranny mount so that I could have a rolling chasis again.

Lessons learned:

1. I am no fabricator
2. This took a lot longer than I thought it would. (always does)
3. It would have been easier to buy one
4. It feels better to build one however

Here are a few pics of the crossmember build.

Pic one is of the bracket on the drivers side that it will fit in.
Pic two is it finished and primed
Pic three is painted and almost ready for mounting.

 

[CruiserMoose]

A few more pics of the crossmember mounted.

 

[CruiserMoose]

Now the engine is secured and off to the next task.