1973 LC needs help starting +oil leak (1 Viewer)

[avillan610]

I made another thread regarding the starting issues.

The PO couldn’t work on it any longer due to a bad back. He intended to sell last year, but apparently friend poured ethanol in the carb, which eventually started a fire in the carb. So he decided not to sell until the carb issue was fixed. He sold it to me for a much lesser price than originally thought, while was still running.

here’s the immediate issue. The carb is cracked. will it affect the A:F mixture with a crack this high? Should I repair it? I’ve heard of the red permatex method...
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i sprayed the carb filled with carb cleaner, and was able to get it running —only for the length of time to burn up the carb cleaner. So it looked like I wasn’t getting fuel to the carb. Im already making a list in my head - carb rebuild kit, fuel pump.I looked around the carb and noticed two things: the fuel IN line was wet (this may need to be replaced). Second thing: there fresh clean oil sitting between the valve cover and the carb. So I’m thinking gasket? Breather? Some of the oil was On the carb itself. Splatter? No idea.

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Time has been limited since the car came home but so I’m glad I stumbled on ih8mud! Those are my current issues starting off with my new toy. I’ve already got a carb repair kit, air intake gaskets for the filter, and maybe a valve cover gasket coming too.

Am I in the right direction? What else should I look into after receiving it? Spark plugs? Any other gaskets to be replaced? I’m very green with working with carburetors or any old motor so help is appreciated.

 

[avillan610]

Anyone available to help diagnose? Thanks

 

[Pighead]

That puddle of oil looks to be right beneath the leaky fuel inlet and the PCV hose. You could have oil dripping from the PCV hose instead of going into the valve cover, try some new hose and a clamp on that. Try some real fuel line on your in and out lines to the carb. 5/16" I think, or 8mm. New hose clamps too.
I like this stuff...

 

[avillan610]

That puddle of oil looks to be right beneath the leaky fuel inlet and the PCV hose. You could have oil dripping from the PCV hose instead of going into the valve cover, try some new hose and a clamp on that. Try some real fuel line on your in and out lines to the carb. 5/16" I think, or 8mm. New hose clamps too.
I like this stuff...

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thanks for the suggestion. i do like the braided stuff myself. off the top, do you know how many feet i should get?

also - what do you think about the cracked carb? is it time to part out already?! =)

 

[Pighead]

I still have my original hard lines to and from the carb, I used about 12 feet, but replaced the soft lines in the rear (FJ55). Take off what you have and measure it...
I am unsure about that cracked carb, if it was mine, I'd replace it.

 

[avillan610]

I still have my original hard lines to and from the carb, I used about 12 feet, but replaced the soft lines in the rear (FJ55). Take off what you have and measure it...
I am unsure about that cracked carb, if it was mine, I'd replace it.

So I’m finding the carb itself isn’t cracked, but the PO put a collar on top to accommodate a botched cutting job on the air cleaner cover. I don’t know why the air cleaner cover was
Shortened or cut up the way it is, but I think it may have been done to accommodate another carburetor.

so I’m thinking and calculating my costs...
$330 for the carb rebuild.
$40 for the gaskets
$185 for the idle solonoid...

A Weber carb is looking a lot nicer to me right now. Please please someone talk me out of getting this weber carb- I really would like to keep it as stock as can but it’s getting crazy expensive for something that should be easily corrected.

 

[Pighead]

So I’m finding the carb itself isn’t cracked
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That is good news.
How much is a carb rebuild kit these days? Last I reacall they was maybe 30 bucks. From Kurt. That and a bucket of carb cleaner with the basket inside.
Buy two kits when you find them, They won't get any cheaper or easier to find. And you'll probably tear a gasket or two in reassembly and redisassembly
Watch Pinhead's videos on carb rebuilding on the Tube of You. Save yourself a few hundred bucks and learn more about your LandCruiser.
That damage to the air filter top part will pound out, cover it up with a big hose clamp.
A Weber carb will bring nothing but headaches. A lucky few seem to get them to run well. Many a post starts off "Weber Problem".
We can often diagnose an Aisin problem with just 4 pictures, Not so much with a Weber usually.
Stick with the carburetor designed for the engine.

 

[jmylie]

It sounds like the truck has been sitting for a while. How long? Today's gas with ethanol does not age well.

It may be worth it to drain the gas tank and add new fuel.

Check all your rubber fuel lines and replace where needed. Also, change the fuel filter if you have not done so.

If you decide not to do the carb rebuild yourself, send the carb to JimC.

 

[73FJ40]

@Pighead

I was under the impression that Parker 293 air brake hose was meant for compressed air. Is it rated for methanol/gasoline?

 

[Pighead]

@Pighead

I was under the impression that Parker 293 air brake hose was meant for compressed air. Is it rated for methanol/gasoline?

While not it's primary use, the 293 is perfectly suitable for gasoline use. This according to the manager at the Parker store I frequent.

 

[kerplunk]

Get rid of the air hose.
Validate that gas is getting to the carburetor.
There might be a little window into the float bowl you can see through? if you pump the throttle by hand, looking down into it (not running) you should see gas pumped out from the accelerator pump. If it starts on starter fluid or carb cleaner, I doubt you're getting gas out of the carb but make sure it's getting in it before you start spending money.

A couple other options are a Holley Sniper EFI kit (what I'm saving my pennies for)...
Or, cheap chinese junk (search "fj 40 carburetor" on Amazon i.e. Amazon product ASIN B07JY9V3ZN).

I've got one of those cheap carburetors. It actually works. It doesn't work well, but I can drive it. Only thing that didn't just plug and play was the fuel line, and that wasn't too challenging. (oh, and the choke, which still isn't connected. It starts slow cold, give it 3-4 minutes and it's good to go). (or the air cleaner, but I got mine with a way wacked up custom setup that had to go anyways).

My original carb was always having a different problem. I would try this and that and get it running good for a couple days, and after a week would have some different issue. When it was working well, it did work better than the $125 masterpiece I swapped it for, but I got tired of it constantly wanting attention to work that well. (And, I'm not an expert, haven't really worked on something like this since high school shop class 20 years ago).

If you do decided to try this, it's been recommended to take it apart and make sure there isn't debris from manufacturing left inside (ya, that kinda quality). And doing so will help you understand how a carb works, and make you more confident maybe you can rebuild your original (I just still haven't bought the kit yet, but am still thinking about that Holley EFI instead).

I also bought the matching distributor... (big cap electronic HEI dizzy, comes with a coil).

It's not quality stuff, it doesn't work well, but it does work (properly installed, which was easier than trying to install OEM with all the PO mods I've had to sort with).

 

[hobbes]

Years ago I put a Weber 38 DGAS carb on my1974. Took awhile to get it to run properly, it wasn’t “plug-n-play”. Got 8mpg. Finally bought a used OEM carb and had it rebuilt by someone on this board. I get 14mpg now. Go thru some posts by Weber Sarge, he really knows those carbs. They are just not properly sized for the F series motor.

Weber 38 DGAS : info + settings + tuning

So, this is not a which carb is better thread. This is a new thread, and I will link to several other threads for those of us stubborn - committed - crazy enough to run a Weber 38 instead of a ______ carb. Several other threads have documented some setup information, including Lean Best Idle...

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