1973 FJ40 Brake Problems. Need a little help over here! (1 Viewer)

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Im really frustrated with these drum brakes. Ive replaces all the wheel cylinders and the MC but I still have to pump the brakes 3 or 4 times to come to a stop. Not cool. Looking at some past post and a few of you with the same problem, it looks like some other Toyota brake boosters may work on a 1973.

A few of you say that 60's boosters work and maybe even a booster from a Celica.

What year model booster from either a 60 or a Celica or anything for that matter will really work?

NAPA doesn't carry a brake booster for a 73 FJ40 nor does Auto Zone.

I need some first hand knowledge. PLEASE!

I know. I know. Do the disk!
 

Josie'sLandCruiser

Stop calling it a "FJ."
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Hi All:

I have a 11/73 FJ40 and I can say that a V-6 mini-truck brake booster is a direct replacement of the old drum brake booster.

That being said, your description of the problem sounds more like the drum brakes are all out of adjustment. Ask me how I know this!?! ;)

Alan
Seattle
 
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A bad booster will not result in brakes that need to be pumped. All it will do is give you a pedal that is a lot harder. Like Alan says, it sounds to me like you need to adjust adjust adjust. :(


Mark...
 
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Adjust the brakes exactly as Toyota manual says (good god this is like the hundredth time I posted this@) Bench bleed the master cylinder. Tighten each wheel cylinder until the wheel is locked down and cannot be turned. back off three clicks. repeat, all around the truck, on every cylinder. start again with the effin bleeding, rr first, lr second, rf third, lf last. You should have some brakes now. For some damned reeason, drive it two or three days, and it will be better. If necessary, repeat the bleeding until your fingers are bleeding. You wasted your money buying drum brake cylinders, but now that you have um, this is the way to make it work
 
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bad brakes

TEXX thanks for the insight. Trust me I did search for and answer before my post but came up empty handed. Too damn cold today to jack with it but I'll give it a shot in the next few days.
 
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Josie'sLandCruiser said:
Hi All:

I have a 11/73 FJ40 and I can say that a V-6 mini-truck brake booster is a direct replacement of the old drum brake booster.

That being said, your description of the problem sounds more like the drum brakes are all out of adjustment. Ask me how I know this!?! ;)

Alan
Seattle
For future reference, what year mini-truck are you takling about?
 

Pighead

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Do you have that little brake adjusting tool that SOR sells? Or are you still using screwdrivers to adjust your wheel cylinders? That little tool makes adjusting brakes SO much easier, and more precise, especially the fronts if you still have the stock steering.
Did you remember to use anti-sieze on the outside of the adjusters? (where the aluminum adjuster fits into the cast iron cylinder) Also makes adjusting easier.
Maybe try: Adjust all wheel cylinders to their tightest, So all 4 wheels don't turn, get back in and push on the brake pedal (engine off). Should be rock solid. if you have to pump or it feels spongy, you need to bleed, or look for leaks.
 
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i have a 7/73 and just recently got them all adjusted properly... get it in the air and tighten them all until you hear them drag (slightly) and then just leave them there. you might lose a little life off your shoes but its worth it for functioning brakes
 

1973Guppie

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since noone else said, it, GET DISC BRAKES!

I fxxxed around with the drum brakes for so long it is just not worth it. Get disks and they you won't ever have to touch em, except for replacing pads. It may take a little more work and $ up front but in the long run is worth it. Unless you are a purist and trying to keep things completely stock.

Noah
 
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hi i also started having issues with the brakes on my 73 fj40, when i step on brake pedal the pedal gets hard and i think its brake booster making a hissing sound and idle starts getting bad... I'm thinking booster might have a vacuum leak ...checked hose from booster to intake and no leaks.....would that be correct on booster being bad?
 

73FJ40

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@dannyrey25 .
hi i also started having issues with the brakes on my 73 fj40, when i step on brake pedal the pedal gets hard and i think its brake booster making a hissing sound and idle starts getting bad... I'm thinking booster might have a vacuum leak ...checked hose from booster to intake and no leaks.....would that be correct on booster being bad?
Yes, it's likely the rubber diaphragm or a seal is leaking.
 

pb4ugo

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hi i also started having issues with the brakes on my 73 fj40, when i step on brake pedal the pedal gets hard and i think its brake booster making a hissing sound and idle starts getting bad... I'm thinking booster might have a vacuum leak ...checked hose from booster to intake and no leaks.....would that be correct on booster being bad?
Its probably best to start your own thread than to highjack a 15yr old thread, which has more to do about adjusting brakes, than boosters." Its like deja vu all over again."
 
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Adjust the brakes exactly as Toyota manual says (good god this is like the hundredth time I posted this@) Bench bleed the master cylinder. Tighten each wheel cylinder until the wheel is locked down and cannot be turned. back off three clicks. repeat, all around the truck, on every cylinder. start again with the effin bleeding, rr first, lr second, rf third, lf last. You should have some brakes now. For some damned reeason, drive it two or three days, and it will be better. If necessary, repeat the bleeding until your fingers are bleeding. You wasted your money buying drum brake cylinders, but now that you have um, this is the way to make it work
Yup, adjust exactly as the manual says and they will be good.
 
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I have just spent a month of Sundays on this exact issue; this is how I finally fixed it.

You need a 1 pint ball jar with two holes through the lid into which go 1/4 inch clear flex
lines about 18 inches each run to the bottom of the jar

Starting rear driver brake single bleeder, connect 1/4 inch tube and crack bleeder and
start engine. Then sieze that pedal with both hands and drive it to the floor and then quickly pull
it towards you as fast and hard as you can repeatedly watching as the res quickly empties
fill res asnd repeat until the pint jar is full. Repeat for rear passenger. For the fronts starting
with passenger connect both hoses and crack both bleeders then really get all your frustration
out on that pedal, all the pain and frustration these dam brakes have given you. When the jar
is full close the bleeders and move on to the drivers front and repeat.

This is will work, takes 15 minutes costs a couple bucks

Good luck all
 

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