1973 cowl vent knob/rod (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Threads
24
Messages
197
Location
Oakesdale WA
When the original owner purchased my 73 he had the dealership install AC and then decided it took too much power and removed the compressor. When they installed the unit under the dash it required relocating the cowl vent knob, which they did by simply moving the bracket 6" to the left and brazing a dog leg on the shaft. This didn't work and was disconnected long ago.
I decided since I wasn't going to use the AC I'd remove the under-dash unit, which would allow me to fix the cowl vent rod and regain a functioning vent. However now that the AC is out and I'm looking at the rod I realize just how butchered this thing is. I have also learned that the cowl vent control rod is one of those 73 only parts.
Does anyone have a 73 rod that they could take measurements off of? I would like to replicate it as close as possible. Also what attaches the rod to the lever under the dash? A push nut and washer? I have the factory end just not sure what held it in the hole.

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Factory radio, after market or no radio?

The radio is a real issue, as well as the heater unit. The later heater is too tall, and most after market or non stock/OEM radios are too deep for this to work. Also, I think the knob is molded on to the end of the rod so I don't think it is removeable.
 
I've got the factory radio. I'm not sure which version of heater I've got but it is completely stock from the factory. The build date of my fj40 is 12/72 if that helps.

The radio doesn't work at the moment. I'm not sure if it can be repaired but I have been looking at the modern radio units that look like original. I guess now is the time to ask if those newer units will work with my cowl vent? I'm not going to cut the dash and I don't plan on changing the heater.

The knob on mine is molded to the shaft but it's in decent condition. I think I've got enough (if not all) of the factory shaft to bend back to the correct pattern once I "un-braze" that extra piece of rod in the middle. I'll need to sleeve the joint but I'm hoping I can make it work.
 
What’s going to come of all the AC parts?….
 
@Skreddy The original owner kept everything and gave it to me when I purchased the vehicle. I've got the compressor he removed. I think I even have the owners manual for the AC in the paperwork he gave me.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. I don't plan on using it at this point but I'm not sure if I should get rid of it because it left the dealership with it when purchased in 73 ....
 
@Skreddy The original owner kept everything and gave it to me when I purchased the vehicle. I've got the compressor he removed. I think I even have the owners manual for the AC in the paperwork he gave me.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. I don't plan on using it at this point but I'm not sure if I should get rid of it because it left the dealership with it when purchased in 73 ....
Makes sense, I hate getting rid of original parts just in case. If you do decide to send it down the road, I may be interested.
 
I've got the factory radio. I'm not sure which version of heater I've got but it is completely stock from the factory. The build date of my fj40 is 12/72 if that helps.

The radio doesn't work at the moment. I'm not sure if it can be repaired but I have been looking at the modern radio units that look like original. I guess now is the time to ask if those newer units will work with my cowl vent? I'm not going to cut the dash and I don't plan on changing the heater.

The knob on mine is molded to the shaft but it's in decent condition. I think I've got enough (if not all) of the factory shaft to bend back to the correct pattern once I "un-braze" that extra piece of rod in the middle. I'll need to sleeve the joint but I'm hoping I can make it work.


That is the early heater. I repair those radios if you want to get it going. That looks to be a 08600-00014. It has a fatal flaw in the amp design, when powering up, check for hot spot in the circled area, turn off immediately if it gets hot there. There are two bias diodes mounted to plastic holders there, they will drift and bias the output transistors on and overheat/melt the holders. New bias diodes and used (non-melted) plastic diode holders are available here.

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@Engineer8000 That's awesome....I was literally just researching a way to get it working. Is there any way to convert it to FM?? :)
It may not matter, these trucks are pretty noisy!

The stock radio is very short, and the offset in the link rod just clears it. Later model radios were longer, and the link rod won't clear them

Here's a picture of the arrangement of the link rod and how it attaches to the vent mechansim.

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Bought my 73 many years ago. It's a FST model that had a hard top and hard doors installed. But it came with soft top bows and soft doors. Had all the rare 73 goodies including the reverse light and headrests. Came with a aftermarket A/C.
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Not sure if the original heaters came with it but those I have plenty of spares. Has been that long I realized I'm missing the 73 only rod in the US. Doing a search the rod was used in non heater markets 9/72-1/79. Part number is 55804-90300. Show a sub as 5580490301 used 1/79-10/81. Same part for both RHD and LHD. Used across the 40 series line. Middle East, South and Central America are big non heater markets. Not sure how common non heat models were in Australia, Toyota's biggest market for the 40 series.
The modern radio depth could be a problem but not sure what direct I'll take. Being a FST will never be has quiet as you can made a hard top.


Regardless probably try and source one.
There is always a possibility the rod was with the emissions part and other small odd and ends. But might be easier to source one that try and find it.
 
So since we're talking about 1973 dashes.....does anyone know what these 2 holes to the right of the glove box would've been for? The original owner says they were there when he bought it from the Toyota dealership. Any idea?

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