1972 FJ40 tub fitment questions (1 Viewer)

[Vulcan]

I am doing a resto-"mod" on my 1972 FJ40 in the sense that I am putting on power steering, dropping in 2F with 4-speed, and some other upgrades while trying to stay as OEM as I possibly can. I cannot do body work and my tub is rusty enough that body shop recommends replacing rather than fixing up to my spec (I want panels that look OEM).

So I looked at Teseven, which has gotten good reviews and their product looks reeeal nas. Unfortunately, they don't make the tub for 1972 with built-in tool box under driver seat. Also their drilling pattern on the cowl wouldn't be a perfect match, which isn't that big a deal since they offer to send it without drilling holes.

Their product looks awesome and I really want stainless steel, so I'm trying to make it work. It would be a big investment so I'm doing my due diligence so I know what I'm getting into and hopefully avoid mistakes others have already made. I have several of questions:

1) Looking at Teseven pictures, it appears to me that the model 40 tub is intended to fit ~1975 and later FJ40s (I have also reached out to them to ask). Do others agree/disagree? Would Teseven's tub bolt directly onto my frame 1972 without modification? I looked at this forum: FJ40 Body Compatibility. It appears that body mount locations are the same for 1968-1978 (I am taking this from prior forum and fact that Aquala's aluminum tub is listed for 1968-1978 models). Picture of Teseven's model 40 tub from their order form below.

2) Has anyone put a Teseven model 40 tub on an pre-1975 FJ40 before? I would love to discuss that process with you.

3) Given that the later tub is made for 2F + 4-speed, and I am dropping in a 2F + 4-speed, I imagine I should be fine with spacing for the transmission. I will need a new doghouse, and I figure I could buy one for a 1975+ and it would bolt right on. Any problems on the interior that might arise from this?

4) I am doing an FJ60 power steering conversion and using my existing column to fit stock steering wheel. Any issues with this when using later tub?

5) What all won't fit when I start to put the car back together? I started a list below...

- No tool box so I will need different driver seat mount or maybe new seat altogether. Can I still have the middle/passenger bench seat though which would also keep the gas evap in the middle seat back?

- Can I use my stock gas tank with the later tub?

- Gas filler hole would be square instead of the semi-circle I currently have. Would I need different filler neck? Maybe I could cut out my steel semi-circle and weld it onto the stainless tub if I really wanted?

- Windshield frame fitment problem. Looking at Toyota part numbers, looks like there was a change in 1975. Could someone describe what modification is needed to use my old 1972 windshield frame?

- Door latches on front doors may not lineup - looks like another 1975 change. I believe Poser said on another thread that new latch holes could be drilled. Do the hinge holes line up?

- Newer tub would be setup for rear ambulance doors instead of swing out doors that came on my vehicle. As I understand it, the bottom ambulance doors hinge holes are at the same spot as the barn door upper hinge holes. Is that right? If so, I figure I would only need to add holes (and maybe captured nuts?) for the bottom barn door hinge holes.

- According to this thread (FJ40 Hardtop Interchange), it appears that the hard top sides from a 1972 should fit without modification on a ~1975 or so tub. Is this a fair assumption?

- Are there things that go on a later model tub in a different place that go somewhere else on an early model tub (or don't go on an earlier tub at all)? Rear jump seat mounts in same location? When I work with Teseven I'd want to avoid drilling holes for things that I wouldn't need. I do want to put in a roll bar so hopefully the tub comes pre-drilled for that. I can't think of what else though

MANY THANKS to those that make it through this book and share their thoughts and experience.

 

[Vulcan]

Update: Teseven has an early model tub in their shop with built-in under-seat tool box, and they offered to build one for me as a custom project for a relatively small premium to the normal tub price. Only problem is they said it would take an extra year (not ready til late summer 2019). That is a tough one, as I don't have free garage space and I want to get this on the road! I also just got my frame finished, and engine and transfer case are being built now as well. Then again, I could take a nice vacation this year and try to extend my garage lease...

I asked them if I could pay more to get it sooner, will update once I hear back. Anyway, it seems like an early 40 model tub will eventually become part of their offering.

Another question, anyone know when the steering column switched to this three screw fitting? On my 5/1972 FJ40, this is shaped like a pill:

I looked at a lot of pictures and looked at OEM part numbers, and it seems like this might have changed to 3-hole fitting as early as 9/1972. Does that sound right? Here's Teseven's fitting options:

Another question on the tool box - could I just drill it out of my tub and put it on a later tub and run my same seats? Or did other things change that would prevent this from working?

 

[Jdc1]

The steering column switched from the one piece column/box in 9/72 to the 2 piece column/box with a rag joint. The ignition switch moved from the dash to the column too. This is when bucket seats (no toolbox), the longer trans hump and a fuel fill door among other small changes were made. The dash cutout for the radio was also added.

 

[Vulcan]

Awesome, thanks for that @Jdc1 !

So I imagine I could just drill a hole in the dash for my stock ignition cylinder.

I am upgrading to FJ60 power steering, planning to cut my 5/1972 one-piece column. If I got the 3-hole firewall plate, would my cut 5/1972 steering column fit through the hole in the plate? Or did the shaft size or angle change?

Could I just drop in my tool box and run my original front bench seats AND trans hump for 4 speed?

 

[Jdc1]

Awesome, thanks for that @Jdc1 !

So I imagine I could just drill a hole in the dash for my stock ignition cylinder.

I am upgrading to FJ60 power steering, planning to cut my 5/1972 one-piece column. If I got the 3-hole firewall plate, would my cut 5/1972 steering column fit through the hole in the plate? Or did the shaft size or angle change?

Could I just drop in my tool box and run my original front bench seats AND trans hump for 4 speed?

I am converting my 12/71 steering column to fit an OEM 40 power steering box as well. The pic below is a plate that I made from 3/16" to put an Ididit column into a 1969 for a 60 conversion. You could fab something similar for yours. I used a holesaw and a burrgrinder to elongate the hole to fit.

The earlier tranny hump is shorter than the 4speed and might not cover the newer hole. Not sure on how good of a metalworker you are but they arnt huge issues.

 

[CHCP]

#3 going from F155 to 2F may have to drill new holes for radiator housing and increase the distance between radiator and engine to allow clearance of cooling fan clutch. Check pipe cross member behind transfer case if its straight, which it should be, the four speed transmission and transfer will only have about a 1/4" clearance, what I've done is cut it out and replace with pipe cross member for 1975 and later.

Depending on year of new tub, 20 gallon gas tank (68-8/73) may not fit you might have to get the 16.5 gallon fuel tank 9/73-12/78, the new tub may have conflicts with the transmission hump and have no brackets for the old style tank hold down brackets, fuel neck and venting system different.

As far as I know you should be able to use any windshield frame that has defrost ducts. Very early cruisers (63) did not have defrost. Depends on what you have for windshield wiper motors and setup. I believe the change to the 75 and later frames was the internal wiper drive arms inside the frame.

If you want to add 75 and later parts I'd recommend finding a basket case 75-78 cruiser and purchase it. I just did my 78 FJ40LV-KCJA and bought a 77 FJ40LV-KCJA and probably saved $Ks on parts. Be aware that there are subtle changes in wiring harnesses from year to year.

Stainless steel sounds great, but aluminum will also fit your needs and be less money if that's important to you.

 

[Rusty 72]

Awesome, thanks for that @Jdc1 !

So I imagine I could just drill a hole in the dash for my stock ignition cylinder.

I am upgrading to FJ60 power steering, planning to cut my 5/1972 one-piece column. If I got the 3-hole firewall plate, would my cut 5/1972 steering column fit through the hole in the plate? Or did the shaft size or angle change?

Could I just drop in my tool box and run my original front bench seats AND trans hump for 4 speed?

The 9/72 and later firewall is a bit different. I would seriously consider installing the later column. I think @Coolerman has all the adapter harnesses for this conversion. Your tool box should fit and the bench seats mounting points might need to be modified. You will need to rework the 4 speed trans hump if you want to retain the 72 fuel tank. 73 and later tank should be a direct bolt in. Will need to match fuel filler neck to the correct tank. There are a few more things that are different but they can be worked out.

 

[Vulcan]

@Jdc1 I appreciate the picture, I don't trust my self with steering or brakes so going to let the shop put together, but may use this if I can get a tub with the pill-shaped cutout).

@CHCP thanks for this feedback. Jim C is rebuilding the engine right now and had recommended scooting the crossmember back about 6" to have plenty of space for ebrake. So I moved that back on my frame.

Interesting, that is good to know re:gas tank. I will dig deeper into that

Thank you for the suggestion, if the changes start stacking up I will look at a part car!

Only thing I don't like about the aluminum bodies is that I can't find one with factory look-alike panel stamping and I'm willing to pay a little more for that. Do you know of any options that fit that criteria?

@reddingcruiser I was looking back at your post from several years ago about having parts ranging 1972-1979 on yours. Any feedback on windshield frame fitment in my case here? Basically want to take mine from my 5/1972 and put on tub built for 9/1972+ model.

 

[Vulcan]

@Rusty 72 Thanks for chiming in (by the way, FJ40Jim is rebuilding your engine now, all good so far other than cracked head. I will send pictures once done!)

I will look into that later column. Can I retrofit my existing dash-mounted ignition cylinder onto column? I haven't even searched about it yet because never thought about it. Honestly, it seems like a plus that I could get the new tub with the 3-hole mount, then I presumably wouldn't need to fab a firewall cover for the conversion and could make it look a little more stock.

Good to know on the gas tank. Did the 73 tank have the same evaporator setup in the middle seat of the bench? In ideal world, I would run stock 4-speed trans hump, keep bench seats and existing evaporator setup. If I got a 73 tank, would that bolt in, allow for natural fit of 4 sp trans hump, and allow me to retain existing evaporator setup?

One more question on fuel tank. I am seeing a different tank for 9/1972 thru 2/1973, and 2/1973 thru 1980. I assume you are talking about the second one (from 2/1973 thru 1980)? That would make sense for 4 sp trans hump but figure I'll check twice before buying!

@Coolerman I emailed you about wiring harness and you responded, but I still need to get back to you. Will do that shortly, still trying to sort things out here as you can see.

 

[CHCP]

The frame I just used on my 78 resto is a 63, I cut off the straight tube cross member and one from a 78, which has a curve to clear the four speed trans/transfer. I welded plates on the end and bolted it to the frame rails, just in case I need to drop the unit in the future it's going to make things a lot easier.
Panel stamping? Do you mean the edges having the 3/4" piece? The aluminum tub doesn't have them.

 

[Vulcan]

Ah that is smart, I should have done that. I took mine to a welding shop and had them remove, box frame about 6" back, and then stub through the frame.

Stamping is probably the wrong word, I basically just mean the oval shaped ridges on the floor boards and inner wheelwells where the rear seats mount. All the aluminum ones seem to be flat and boxy which I just don't personally love. That being said, if this later model tub had been a huge PITA, I probably would have gone Aquala or something. But it increasingly seems like with a handful of parts/minor mods, I can get everything to fit and look pretty natural and stock.

It seems like 3-hole column fitting will look more stock than custom firewall fitting for power steering conversion, and while gas tank door is not true to my model, that doesn't bother me so much. If it does later, I will just get body shop to fab one like mine and drop in.

 

[reddingcruiser]

@reddingcruiser I was looking back at your post from several years ago about having parts ranging 1972-1979 on yours. Any feedback on windshield frame fitment in my case here? Basically want to take mine from my 5/1972 and put on tub built for 9/1972+ model.

Swap away! Common issues when swapping w/s frames (except early lever latch types) are: which side the wiper motor wires go through the cowl and the compatibility between wiper motor and switch. Also there is difference in the valance mounting holes on late model frames where the wipers are in the bottom of the frame. All of these issues are easy to overcome.

My '72 tub has a '79 w/s frame and my switch and harness are out of a '76. Just took a few minutes looking at schematics to figure out the wiring.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I have installed windshield glass in my 71 and 76. I much prefer the later non-keyed weatherstrip. I’d vote a later winshield frame if possible. I think the smaller 75-76 wiper motors are less plentiful so 77 later frame.

 

[Rusty 72]

Fuel tank, dont know exact differences. Here is my 72 tank and a 75ish hump. Already cut a relief in hump but it needs a bit more. Floors are a bit different also. I would get the later 4 speed hump. Bolt in and clearance for the 4 speed trans and t-case linkage. Just need to get the correct boots which are still available new.

Steering columns, 74 and 77. Only differences I see is the green 77 plug vs the white 74 plug. I think the 72 ign switch wiring will plug directly into them if the harness is long enough. Dont know if its plug and play. Might need to changes wiring locations within the plug. Can look at schematics to find out. They are on @Coolerman site. Also need to drill holes for the turn siginal indicators. Headlight switch is moved a little to the left of the 72. I installed a later switch and had to grind on my brake pedal bucket for clearance.

This is a 77 firewall. E-brake is in footwell but I think 74 is in firewall. Oval hole is for gas pedal and everything is different 72 is cable and 73 up has linkage. Probably easier to get complete gas pedal assembly from 73 up.

 

[bikersmurf]

In case you didn't see this thread on SS tubs:
BJ42 Restoration

Be ready for a ton of little things.

 

[Vulcan]

@Rusty 72 More very helpful info. From a couple other threads, it looks like Teseven's tubs include a trans hump. I just ordered an OEM 73+ gas tank. Needed a new one anyway, and it is supposed to fit late 73 through 80 models so should fit with 4-sp trans and the tub. The body shop can figure out how to make it work if not perfect bolt in.

I also just had trans/t-case rebuilt and put on the nut-adjusting e-brake cable. It sounds like I might have to change that. I will keep that in mind.

I am planning to use the carburetor you sent along with your engine, so will get the newer pedal assy for newer linkage.

Maybe dumb question, but what is the benefit of using a newer steering column? Previous plan was to use flaming river u-joints, borgeson telescoping shaft, and cut my stock column and press in bearing from IPOR (Michael Demeglio conversion). I already have the parts. I will have to weigh benefit relative to what I've already put into parts. Critical that the column I use fits the stock steering wheel, I don't know if/when that spline may have changed.

@bikersmurf thank you for sharing that!! I hadn't seen it but caught up and sub'd. I am planning to bring all the disassembled pieces to the body shop to do a lot of that work, but it gives me an idea of what I should have in order to reduces hours they charge me for researching how it goes back together.

 

[Rusty 72]

You will need the filler neck for the 73 up fuel tank also. Steering column, Since you already have the parts to install your 72 I would just go that route. I plan on using my 3 speed e-brake cable but if its too short I will look for a 74 4 speed cable.

 

[73FJ40]

@cruiserclaude72 :

"Stamping is probably the wrong word, I basically just mean the oval shaped ridges on the floor boards and inner wheel wells where the rear seats mount."

Those are called 'beads' in the sheet metal world. They stiffen up thin sheet metal to reduce flexing (like a miniature C-channel lying on its flanges.)

If the metal is thick enough, there is no need for beading, other than cosmetics.