1970 Heater valve (1 Viewer)

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Mar 6, 2019
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64
Messages
251
Location
Salinas, CA
I am making a working heater for my 70. Don't have or care about he the rear heater. I cleaned up the blower in the engine compartment, it is working. The flapper and electrical are GTG. Funny thing, there was a sea shell in the blower housing. I can see no way to get it in there, maybe a factory worker prank?

Anyway, question of the day....... The heater valve I bought required a wire linkage to make it turn off and on. My vehicle has no such wire linkage or control knob. Since I have no rear heater I have a good place to put the wire linkage valve actuator. Who has them that look plausible?

IF my questions seem silly it is because many of these parts were stripped from the vehicle before I got it. I this is my first FJ40.

I also need the duct connector #5 in the attached drawing. Do I just make something.

Thanks,
Scot

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Good luck on heater. Not a strong point in a 40.

With regards to duct connector, my first 40 was missing this part. A cut up vinyl 3 ring binder cover and duct tape worked for 16 year old me.

Current rig had dry rotted connector, this time I fabricated one from galvanized sheet metal with foam tape for seals. Took a while but came out better than my first one.

Edit to add: I parted a 76 40 out at one time. Getting the newer heater box in my 1970 was a nice upgrade. Better defrost and better air flow control.

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Factory had a manual valve at the water connection at the cylinder heat. It's threaded valve with a handle like a wing nut on the end. 9/73 the heater changed and an inline valve was bolted to the firewall, engine side. A control cable with a knob was mounted to the dash.
 
Thanks for the information. I did not understand that the original system was so crude.

Any good sources for a heater valve pull cable assembly for a later vehicle? I does not need to be authentic since it was not factory anyway. I want it to look plausible. I'd like to avoid the generic cheap ones that look like they belong on a lawn mower. .
 
I think City Racer and Toyotamatt sells the later heater control valve.
 
City Racer did not show anything on the website.

How do I PM Toyotamatt? I got an error message when I tried. I do not own a smart phone.
 
You tried clicking his avatar and then " Start a Conversation " ?
 
I am making a working heater for my 70. Don't have or care about he the rear heater. I cleaned up the blower in the engine compartment, it is working. The flapper and electrical are GTG. Funny thing, there was a sea shell in the blower housing. I can see no way to get it in there, maybe a factory worker prank?

Anyway, question of the day....... The heater valve I bought required a wire linkage to make it turn off and on. My vehicle has no such wire linkage or control knob. Since I have no rear heater I have a good place to put the wire linkage valve actuator. Who has them that look plausible?

IF my questions seem silly it is because many of these parts were stripped from the vehicle before I got it. I this is my first FJ40.

I also need the duct connector #5 in the attached drawing. Do I just make something.

Thanks,
Scot

View attachment 3329563


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Hello Scott , :)

you bought and have the Below same Heater control valve that mounts on a 1973- Later FJ40 correct ?

- please confirm this ?

- if im correct here ?

- then all you need is a new HEATER Control valve " WARM PULL CABLE " then right Scott ?

- please confirm this too here when u report back

- i now offer a 100% MADE IN JAPAN Spec. / period correct length and push pull back and forth strokes WARM PULL CABLE assy , Fits 1973-1984 ALL LHD 2F engine and F1.5 engines Land Cruisers

- i can explain in detail how to plug and play this NEW warm pull cable assy on your 1970 and it WILL work just like Clock-Work-Smurf perfect OEM fit form anmd function correct ...

thanks

matt


see TECH images below and link.

- ALSO , do NOT skip the TECH. VIDEO below also , its simply bad to the bone and shows you all the period correct made in Japan. Spec. details you shall wsee in you own hands very soon ......:D
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My vehicle has a 235 Chevy engine.....unfortunately.

It has a bell crank in the area where I think I should to place the valve. It controls the hi/lo range gears. I need a work around. Perhaps this valve is not usable on my vehicle.

I can not find a picture of what the later systems looked like using this valve. Anyone?

Matt I have the valve and misc plumbing. I do not have the pull cable. Because I can not locate the valve as mr T apparently did will it work? Maybe I need a cable that is longer.

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My vehicle has a 235 Chevy engine.....unfortunately.

It has a bell crank in the area where I think I should to place the valve. It controls the hi/lo range gears. I need a work around. Perhaps this valve is not usable on my vehicle.

I can not find a picture of what the later systems looked like using this valve. Anyone?

Matt I have the valve and misc plumbing. I do not have the pull cable. Because I can not locate the valve as mr T apparently did will it work? Maybe I need a cable that is longer.

View attachment 3330369

View attachment 3330370

View attachment 3330371


well .??


there is NO longer WARM PULL cables

they are a EXACT thing if you follow me here ?


you say this is a CHEVY straight 6 in there ?


i have NEVER seen this mod before ?

far out ! :)





:)
 
i do not have a anser here ?

if this was a TOYOTA Cylinder head the manual shut off valve below , my latest PIPE DREAM that still blows me away how heavy duty it is ,m would be a option if the Tech images below do not help here ???..
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Since I have a different engine and the Hi/lo range linkage prevents using the valve I purchased I have another plan. I can use a generic valve that has the inlet and outlet in line. I am thinking of putting the valve toward the front of the engine and using a long pull cable control. The inlet and outlet for the heater are designated by the green arrows. The interfering mechanism is inside the yellow circle.

Sorry, I was not clear. My 40 has a 235 chevy engine. I did not do it! The original engine was scrapped long ago. It cracked heads several times and my father was convinced to get rid of it. I thought it was a bad idea at the the time.

71jC-zkm+EL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


bay.jpg
 
My vehicle has a 235 Chevy engine.....unfortunately.

It has a bell crank in the area where I think I should to place the valve. It controls the hi/lo range gears. I need a work around. Perhaps this valve is not usable on my vehicle.

I can not find a picture of what the later systems looked like using this valve. Anyone?

Matt I have the valve and misc plumbing. I do not have the pull cable. Because I can not locate the valve as mr T apparently did will it work? Maybe I need a cable that is longer.
I was going to suggest the inline valve you found. This is a similar valve for a domestic NPT fitting. Toyota used the British pipe threads. Not sure what threads you have in your head but you may need a reducing adapter or elbow.

Amazon product ASIN B000DCNGKQ
 

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