1970 FJ40 4BT "Kermit" build

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Joined
Aug 6, 2013
Threads
14
Messages
126
Location
Omaha, NE
**If you don’t like text, the pics are at the bottom :zilla:**

I have purchased a 1970 FJ40, which my brother picked up about a week or so ago. I will getting back from deployment soon, but until then he is being an awesome brother and helping with the truck. (He is the one with a lot more know how when it comes to vehicles!)
This thread is going to be as much as it is for me to keep track of my build as it is to entertain yall and show you there is still someone out there that knows less about you!
A little about the truck:
1970 Land cruiser
-900/16 xl Michelin radials w/aluminum rims.
- 2000(yr) 4BT Cummins turbo Diesel. Intercooled. In-line P-Pump injection. Torque splitter over-drive.
- 1984 4speed transfer case.
- GM power steering components
- Front, after market Warn bumper
- 2 high-intensity halogen lamps.
- Aftermarket bucket seats

Goals for the truck:
My plans are to have this truck primarily as daily driver. I like to take it off=road, but that won’t happen for a-while until this truck is reliable. I love the outdoors and camping so it will be geared towards that.
The bad:
- The wiring is all over the place from the swap.
- All of the gauges are out of whack, they all need to be tested to see if they even work.
- One of the over-flow reservoirs is a Fosters beer can.
- The power-steering is some crazy heavy-duty CAT construction equipment system….with a non-fillable res? Who knows….
- The body needs work….replacing the driver side rocker and the driver side quarter panel.
- Replacing the “barn-door” tail-gate due to bad rust issues.
- There is no parking brake……don’t really know where to go with it….seems the only alternative is to replace the rear axle with an FJ-60 one.
- I need to find a place to move the battery since I hate that it’s just sitting in the cab….I would like to place under the driver seat, but not enough room there.
- Only one jump seat came with the truck….got to find that
- The throttle cut off need the switch redone
- The electric fan need an on/off switch ran to it
- Possibly need to replace the radiator/fan….looks dinky….but we will see how hot it gets when the gauges actually work! Haha



All trailer-ed up….



Paint stripped applied to the rattle can paint job to see what we are working with…


Progress….


It goes….


Cut out the badly infected rocker…



No top…


The fronts done…


What’s upcoming on the build let’s see….
- Front disc brake kit
- Center console
- Carpet kit
- New bolts and nuts
- New quarter panel
- New driver rocker panel
- Gas hood struts
- New seals for all the doors and hatches
- Mounting the battery somewhere…
- That’s all I can think of for now….


Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have limited knowledge about diesels and Land Cruisers in general, I am trying to learn though!
 
- Flip the bezel
- PS wiper is missing
- PS mirror missing
- Solve the E-brake problem
- .........

Rudi
 
- Flip the bezel
- PS wiper is missing
- PS mirror missing
- Solve the E-brake problem
- .........

Rudi

Hey Rudi,

Thanks for the list...seems like there are so many things to do....I get distracted by something else.

I finally get this whole flipped bezel thing now....the thicker parts supposed to be at the top...check.

Now I gotta see who sells or better yet who might have an extra mirror and wiper blade!

-Jeremy
 
Hi Jeremy,

The mirror is not the problem, the wiper arm is.

Good luck,

Rudi
 
Hi Jeremy,

The mirror is not the problem, the wiper arm is.

Good luck,

Rudi

Yea....seems I have to buy two haha......well, atleast they dont look to hard to come by new, still trying to find used though.....love pinching pennies.....
 
my battery is under the driver seat , i made a steel boxe, the floor of the boxe is trough the floor of the 40 (if you dont mind cutting your floor)
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my battery is under the driver seat , i made a steel boxe, the floor of the boxe is trough the floor of the 40 (if you dont mind cutting your floor)

Jim,

Thanks for the ideas for the battery's......I have considered cutting the tub I just cant bring my self to do it......maybe later t=down the road...maybe.

Can you give me anymore information about the box? That is what I have been looking for!

Thanks for the helps again Jim! :beer:
 
Yea....seems I have to buy two haha......well, atleast they dont look to hard to come by new, still trying to find used though.....love pinching pennies.....

www.cruiserparts.net is like a pull-a-part for cruisers. You can get used wiper blades from them, I'm sure. Probably faster than finding a guy parting out a truck in the classified section.
 
my engine is just a sbc 350 ,but i use my winch to winch big log at work , i dont care if the yellow optima go dead cause the red top is for everyday driving , in winter time i can jumpstart myself if the starting battery is to low
 
Sides

While the truck is in the shop the top was sitting in the garage so its been prepped as well.
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Almost all one color again!!
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Thanks for your service.

Don't forget the sound dampening material.
 
Thanks for your service.

Don't forget the sound dampening material.

Im lining the interior of the hard top. the floors, the firewall, and the inner feder-wells with Raptor liner; does that count?

Oh Im also using the CCOT pre cut dampener and the carpet kit from JTO.
 
I have a question for yall.......I have a few routes after all the reading done and need some opinions.

The truck came with no parking brakes so Im looking at my options.

1. Swap rear discs w/ the "El-dorado" caliper with the built in brake ( I heard there wasnt enough clamping power for the caliper)

2. A later model FJ 45- FJ55 rear end w/ build in drum e-brake. I would like to find one of these since they are all the spring perches and pretty much a direct swap?

"For the rearend, the 1980-85 40/45 Series rearends should have a built-in (drum) parking brake assembly. If this is not desireable to you then find a 1969-79 rear axle assembly to do the "Monte Carlo" disc brake swap.
"

3. An FJ60 axle, but the problem is my know how is no good. I would have to pay the shop to make everything work which will = $$$ I really dont want to.


So would would yall recommend?
 
that looks perfect. Does it just bold up to the existing tcase ? Do you have to shorten the drive shaft lenghth?
 

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