1969 FJ40 help please?? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 25, 2011
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West Valley, AZ
Hello everyone,

My first post and my first FJ. I just got a 1969 FJ40 that was running very bad, misfire and looks to be mostly original.

I need help with the distributor however. It is not running anymore and I think it is the distributor. I get spark at the coil, but none at the spark plugs.

I opened up the distributor and it is a Delco-remy model 112403- 5A31. I think I should replace this unit as my research shows this is a modified GM distributor.

It does not have vacuum advance, a black plug on the side where vacuum advance might go?

Any suggestions on getting this thing running? I Changed, wires, spark plugs, was going to change the cap and rotor, points, but I ordered for a 69 landcruiser not this distributor.

Anyways I would like some help to get spark and any other suggestions to get it running? It also has a weber carb, dual butterflies and looks like some seepage at the plate to manifold from carb cleaner I ran through it and starter fluid. Anyone have suggestions on this? Should I rebuild it or try and find a stock carb to get better reliability?

It has been sitting for a year and a half so I drained fuel and changed the oil so far. Now I want to get it to run to see if the motor is even any good? I did not see any leaks other than at the distributor and the seal around the shaft. Doesnt drop anything on the garage yet, but then again I am not driving it.

Thanks for any advice, suggestions on the dizzy and the carb, any other suggestions would be great.

Thanks everyone!

Floyd in Arizona:)
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Central Oregon
 
Find or buy new an early vac advance/"non usa" dizzy.
Then eventually get a slightly later carb that will have or can be ported for vac advance. (you can run without the vac advance hooked up)
You will need to get a later air cleaner housing to match the carb.
Lotta info on here on both those subjects.
I have a 7/69 and am going through all this.
It has a funny odd ball carb oem. Mine works so Im keeping it for now. I scored a new early vac advance dizzy on mud. Its never run better!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 25, 2008
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Ya good chance its points...you could at least see if it runs if you can clean those points up.
But I would ditch that dizzy pronto.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2011
Messages
52
Location
West Valley, AZ
points

The points do not look worn down, but the distributor is "rigged" a bit. The screw that holds the power wire into the distributor was just wrapped around the screw. The screw goes into the distributor to the points. This was loose. I tried to get it tight, but it looks like I need to replace the screw with a bolt and get a better connection. I tried to run the wire into the distributor with the metal connecting it directly to the points, but at this point I think I either need to go buy a bolt and use more time figuring out the Delco distributor or just bite the bullet and buy a new distributor. If you think the Delco distributor is worth keeping, let me know and I will go new points on it and cap and then try my luck with it.

Another issue I am concerned with is if when they put in the Delco distributor did they set it right. TDC on cylinder 1? It was misfiring when I went to go look at it and with my luck soon as it came off the trailer into my garage it refused to start!

Thanks.
 
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
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Location
Battle Creek , Michigan
you might check out the condenser, my 74 had spark at the coil and no spark at the plugs , with new cap rotor points wires and plugs. then i replaced the condenser , and like magic it started.
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
55
Location
Tucson,AZ
What part of AZ are you in? I am located in Tucson and have some stock distributors if you want to trouble shoot with them. Years ago i had delco in a 71 that came from man a fre. worked good back then. sounds like may have some other electrical issues going on as well. should be a simple fix. let me know if i can lend you a hand. Its all in the trouble shooting in the correct order
 
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Tucson,AZ
forgot to mention..... pretty sure your delco has mechanical advance (weights inside dist). Also running a weber on mine and after figuring it out i love it. But you do need advance distributor for them to work. Also take the part numbers off your delco to Merle's and they can set you up with points ETC.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
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decisions

Can i throw out an opinion real quick, if you can't get it running with minimal expense, skip to a compression test and a cylinder leakage test to see what your dealing with. if you've got a bad engine, you've got some decisions to make before you spend a bunch on new parts that won't fix the problem:bang:, especially if you've never seen it run good.:cheers:
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2011
Messages
52
Location
West Valley, AZ
Here is a picture of my 69 FJ40.

I figure I will need a distributor and carb rebuild. If that does not get it running I plan on getting a used running engine.

Screamingeagle, or anyone else do you know where I can get a used running engine?? If I can get it to fire up great if not then do a compression test/leak down? I figure I will need a good distributor and good carb on another motor anyways? So I can rule out two problem areas. The motor oil was ok, did have sludge on the bottom of the pan.

Thanks for any other input guys. I am thankful for all the help, this is my first "classic car" I don't know anything about carbs, but I figure I am going to learn with this one....
1969 FJ40.jpg
 

Dusty 66

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2X on the Compression test see what your dealing with engine wise first.
then junk the Delco distributor.
I would put in a in OEM Toyota vacuum advance Distributor with electronic ignition peteronix kit and ether get a hold of Jim Chenoweth Ph. 740.862.2604 FJ40jim or Marks Off Road Home Page 65SWB45 both on the board here and have them fix u up with a Asin (Toyota) carburetor.

My.02
 
Joined
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West Valley, AZ
Thanks dusty!

I will give them a call next week, once I get the compression test done. hopefully I dont need a motor.....Do you have a suggestion on sourcing a used motor? One of the sponsors on here?

Thanks again,

Floyd
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2011
Messages
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West Valley, AZ
Not yet :)

Yeah I am hoping its not starting due to:

1.distributor is Delco-remy.

2. Has an electric fuel pump which I have no idea how that thing is setup??

3. Weber carb which does has a leak at the two adapter plates on the manifold.

You guys think I should ditch the electric fuel pump and go back to mechanical? Would that make it more reliable??

Any advice, experience on this subject would help as well.


thanks guys!;)
 
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portland or
I would put in a new OEM mechanical fuel pump if it were my choice.

Also I would go with a stock dissy, they sell new OEM nippendendo ones but they are spendy, but worth it I think in the long run. Or you can buy a used one that has been recurved or is working well :)

You will want to fix the fuel leak on your carb.
If it is leaking fuel from the adapter plate it is likely that the fuel pump extra gas into the carb or you float circuit is not shutting off, allowing gas to dump into the carb. Or you just have a mean vacuum leak at the adapter plate between the carb/ adapter / intake manifold.

You should post up some photos of the leak and all the engine bay, it is super helpful for others to help you that way :)
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2011
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West Valley, AZ
Sorry for the dirtyengine bay..

I have yet to clean the oil residue below the fuel pump from the leaking distributor....

Anyways here is pictures of the electric fuel pump which I have no idea how it is pumping fuel, I assume it maybe pumping in too much fuel?

I also pictured the weber, how can I identify which one I have, I do not see any markings on it???

I also do not have vac advance on my current distributor, which I hope I can get in the future with a nippon distributor?

Where do I run the vac. to? Somewhere on the weber?

Thanks for the help guys. :)


Heres the pictures:::







 

Dusty 66

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I have a 72 155 F moter that needs a rebuld if you need a core ?

If the electric Fuel pump works why not use if for now, you can change to mechanical if have a problem or untill you get outher things sorted.
 
Joined
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West Valley, AZ
Thanks Dusty!

Yeah I will try and borrow a compression tester tommorrow from one of my local autoparts stores. Do I need to disconnect the fuel pump when I turn the engine over for the compression test. I know that most disable fuel injectors during a compression test. Is that the same idea on carb? Don't want fuel being pumped into it while I turn it over several times per cylinder...

Thanks:)
 

Dusty 66

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I'd disconect the FP and and your coil open your carb up wide open for your test, you may want to adjust your valves first may give you to a better reading
 

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