1969 FJ40 Garlic Country (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Threads
17
Messages
226
I am going to start this thread because I am coming across questions as I uncover what’s on my new cruiser I just picked up a few months ago. I’ve been around cruisers for a long time, our first car was a 73 FJ40 we pulled out of our grandparents barnyard and fixed up. Later on had an fj55 I was going to fix up but then had kids and that project was sold to someone here on Mud.
Now my kids are driving age or close and figured it would be a good excuse to get another 40. Well I found a running one with little rust with much of the updates I would have done already done. Some good some bad but it runs well and everything that needs to be done I know how to.

70198955491__9D17A4CE-A38B-4296-BE68-F5C6F322E1BC.jpeg

Here’s the additions made:
-GM 250 inline 6
-4 speed TLC transmission
-TLC transfer case
-Power steering conversion
-4 wheel disc brakes (booster less, but with a dual diaphragm master cylinder)
-1 inch body lift (most likely to clear drive train changes from my research-correct me if I’m wrong)
-GM tilt column, with push button start on dash.
-PO rubber lined the interior of the tub
-Looks like they debadged it, patched up the holes before what it looks like spray painting it a matte dune beige color. Original color is the baby blue. I’m contemplating going the patina look. But that’s further down the list. I’ll let the paint peel on it’s own first.

First questions-
Question: Power steering conversion (mounted in a way I have never seen) Should I change the mounting to the more traditional route and box the opposite side as well, or is this sufficient (not planning on going bigger than 33” and won’t be doing serious wheeling)
IMG_5577.jpeg


IMG_5277.jpeg


IMG_5288.jpeg


1685914133336.png
 
More pics of mods:
4 wheel disc brakes
Front (look like later fj40 disc brakes-1978, correct if I’m wrong please)
View attachment 3340431
Rear (mid 70’s Chevy, C10 seem to be a match)
View attachment 3340433

Obviously it has big ass spacers to fit the ugly mags. Currently on 31s.

Was surprised to see the selectro hubs. Had to do some research to know what those were.

Also looks like they have rewired it, and it looks like a EZ wiring kit:
View attachment 3340439
 
plan for the truck:
1. Suspension overhaul (ordered dobinsons 2 inch lift from @TRAIL TAILOR
2. Stock steelies with tall skinny tires
3. Overhaul brake system - contemplating installing a booster with spacer to clear the firewall bracing.

What I already did:
1. Fix the dieseling- exhaust manifold was cracked (replaced it), adjusted monojet carb, was also missing a mounting bolt so was lose on manifold. Seems to have fixed it and it is creating ok vacuum.
IMG_5316.jpeg

2. Got a new exhaust system (was a patchwork of clamps and metal sleeves)
 
The gauge cluster has to go as well. Can probably make two out of all this aluminum. Unfortunately the mounting tabs behind it for the stock cluster were cut out
1685916612178.jpeg
 
Installed the Dobinsons leaf springs from @TRAIL TAILOR along with 4* caster shims from Georg at Valley Hybrids. Both of them were great to do business with and parts came fast.
in the rear ratcheting straps were very handy. Also used them to pull the axle forward using the side step mount in order for one side to seat properly with the leaf string pin. Sharing in case anyone could use it in future.
Some pics from before and during.

IMG_5662.jpeg


IMG_5652.jpeg


IMG_5659.jpeg
 
Post installation. Used the extended shackles that were on it already in the rear, switched to the new stock length shackles that came with the lift in the front due to shocks being too short with extended shackle length. So it has a slight rake to it now.

IMG_5680.jpeg


IMG_5678.jpeg
 
Shackle angles could be better, I’m assuming they will improve over some miles.
 
IMG_6196.jpeg

These wheels and tires look great. Finally got the chrome wheels off and the stock steelies on with Kenda Klevers 33x10.5 15’s. Drives so much better, the rubber overdrive is great.

IMG_6185.jpeg


IMG_6182.jpeg


IMG_6180.jpeg
 
First questions-
Question: Power steering conversion (mounted in a way I have never seen) Should I change the mounting to the more traditional route and box the opposite side as well, or is this sufficient (not planning on going bigger than 33” and won’t be doing serious wheeling)
View attachment 3340429
I have that Saginaw P/S set up on my 1975 FJ55.

I'd be interested in how they extended the steering column to reach up there; mine has a really hinky pillow block arrangement that is mounted to the inside fender well instead of the frame.

I'd think you'd at least want straps welded to provide strength to that front cross-member. Even though I hate the aesthetic and the pillow blocks, my power steering works fine, even with heavy wheeling.
 
The way the frt crossmember was cut for the power steering is going to be a problem in the future. My PO hacked mine in a similar way. It's a high stress and flex area. It probably needs a tube extending thru the crossmember frt to back, so the opening doesn't collapse. I'd avoid welding the crossmember to the frame rail so that connection can flex. On mine the po put straps across opening and the welds would break or the strap would bend, I had to address the hack multiple times. I eventually had to install a replacement crossmember and adapted scout steering. The flex transfered to the left frame rail and I had to rebuild/scab the left frame rail too
I'd address it now while you can.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the input, appreciate it and what I was thinking needed to be done.
 
Installed the 4plus tire carrier. Pretty straight forward, had to drill 4 bolts since the hitch bolts were already there. Very easy straightforward install. Very sturdy.
Some tips I stole from other threads that came in handy:
1. Hold in place with loosely tightened hitch nut and bolts. This way you can adjust level and mark the holes to drill.
2. Use a punch to mark center of the 4 marks where you will drill
3. Use smaller bit for pilot holes first.
4. Then go with 1/2” drill bit.

IMG_6273.jpeg


IMG_6275.jpeg


IMG_6279.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom