1969 fj40 front hub questions - after f-bombs and a beer (1 Viewer)

[Travis Kinney]

I suck at Haynes and other manuals. The wording on the diagrams seems to not match the directions or torque table.
So after breaking one bolt I figured I should post.

Progression; f-bombs, beer then firearms. So I stopped at beer! Just kidding (kinda)

After inspecting my airfield I'm reassembling the hub and not sure what torque these nuts with locking wire is supposed to be at.
Can anyone tell me? And what may ask is a figging "bashing plate?" Is that the case around the brake shoes that protects them and what these bolts hold in place?


SOR torque chart for a 8m 1.25 bolt ranges from 8-21 ft/lbs. I don't know what grade these are so not sure which to pick.
Already snapped one bolt because I thought Haynes had listed for 34ft/lbs. My bad

Additionally;
is this locking hub spring in the right position?
What toque for the locking hub nuts?

The large adjusting nut. I know the torque on this depends on the steering pull pound. Is the inner nut set differently than the outer nut?
Is the inner nut set to what ever is required for the correct steering resistants and then output toques down to a specific torque. I thin Haynes is telling me that the locknut (that's the outer nut I assume) is 65 ft/lbs.

Anyone interested in explaining to me what is what? It makes no sense to me. They all sound the same.

 

[Mark Jennings]

I own a 68 FJ40 and I also use a Haynes manual. I use the diagrams for assembly order...not so much for torque values....other than head bolts and connecting rod/main bearing values.

The following may be a bit abstract and is based on my experience in the nuclear industry where virtually everything has a torque value....with few exceptions....however, there are exceptions. And this is what we fall back to when those exceptions come up.

A standard SAE combination wrench (box end with open end) length is set so that a normal build man will not over-torque a fastener and when the fastener is tightened and it will torqued to the appropriate yield. Basically, tighten the fastener until the lock washer is engaged (fully flat), then an additional 1/8 to quarter turn using a ‘standard combination wrench’.

And don’t forget the lock wire on these bolts. That’s an extra safety measure.

Now if you are built like a NFL linebacker, you need to be a bit thoughtful of your strength....

And after you get the ‘buggered’ bolt out and go to reassemble, remember tight is acceptable....

 

[Braden620]

Once you identify the grade, consult the torque tables found in almost all Toyota manuals. Make sure you can tell the difference between the various bolt diameters. You can use calipers or thread gauges. Also 25.4mm = 1 inch.

Having a quality torque wrench helps too. I like the old beam style as you can always see if it is on zero with no loading, not something you can do with a clicker.

 

[Travis Kinney]

No mark is a grade 4! Nice. That does help.
I have two bolts on my locking hub assembly that are busted off. Drilled them and tried to unscrew using a revere thread bolt removal tool with no lock. Didn't want to twist the removal tool so hard that it too would break off. Will have to take assembly off a drill out fully and retap. Not the end of the world but irritating.

 

[Braden620]

No mark is a grade 4! Nice. That does help.
I have two bolts on my locking hub assembly that are busted off. Drilled them and tried to unscrew using a revere thread bolt removal tool with no lock. Didn't want to twist the removal tool so hard that it too would break off. Will have to take assembly off a drill out fully and retap. Not the end of the world but irritating.

If you walk away and come back calm you may very well extract the bolts with nothing more than a left handed drill bit. Those bolts usually have some grease/oil in and around them so likely not seized up like other bolts may be.