1967 D40 carb questions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Threads
6
Messages
32
Location
Enumclaw, WA
Hello fellow Mudders! While I have not done a formal introduction yet, this site over the years is probably the definitive resource for Land Cruisers; so thank you all so much for the help and keeping this rigs alive!

I'll cut to the chase: My 1967 FJ40 has a D40 carb, non solenoid, with what appears to be a Late 1965 air horn. Now I certainly could be wrong on this. I just cleaned the carb up this weekend, and unfortunately it looks like I have the wrong Keyser rebuild kit for it because I hardly used any of the components in it (don't have a picture handy of the kit number, but I recall 9/1966 for the effective date on it)

The carb had a modified 2F float in it; I replaced it with a brass one that came in some spare parts boxes that came with the purchase. I dunked in water for one minute and no bubbles came out of it.

When reinstalling the carb, it the engine won't idle worth beans (1966 F engine books says 1.5 turns out on the idle screw, which I did). I will reinstall the 2F float in it for now. I also followed the 1966 F Engine FSM and adjusted the brass float in the up and down position correctly, even made a tool and measure with calipers to set it right.

So, do I have a 'bastard' carb, pardon the language? Should I send it to Mark's Offroad for a correct rebuild (it would be more fun if I did it myself)? Where would you guys and girls go with this right now? I'll include pictures in this thread, and can take many more if needed.

Best,
James
 
Pictures added

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Is the airhorn warped just above the site glass?

Was the 40 running good before you pulled the carb?
 
@thebigredrocker , Thank you for the input, I did check the warpage with a block and feeler gage, I'll post pictures below. The 40 was running 'okay' before the carb disassembly. I don't believe it's been driven since 2005-so I have no idea how it ran before that. I've actually just drove it for the first time since then a few weekends ago, a shakedown run if you will since I went through the brakes. With the choke pulled out maybe a 1/4 way, it would run 50 mph down the road no problem, probably could have taken it faster.

Fast forward to now, I want to improve the drive, so hence the carb rebuild. I also at the same time put in a used hard fuel line from the pump outlet to carb inlet (from S.O.R-turned out it wasn't like the original. The original was hacked up...), used line from the filter to the pump inlet, and new fuel hose from tank to filter. I verified that I was getting fuel out of the pump with the 'new' set up. I will include pictures as well.

After carefully looking back at my disassembly pictures, and noting what I did change, I found at least two errors. I corrected them then went to bed (also placed in the old 2F float). I'm curious if it runs as it did, I will find out later today.
 
Points ignition? Dwell? Valve adjustment?

Both are critical to vacuum, and vacuum is what makes a carburetor work.

Do some research. If we narrow it down to a true carburetor problem, I will be happy to assist you.
 
Excellent Mark you're the person I was hoping would chime in at some point.

Regarding ignition and valve adjustments; while it's true I do not know the history of the drivability of this vehicle prior to now, with the flick of the ignition switch and no foot pumping, the engine would fire right up and idle really nicely. Now, I do have video of it, and I do hear everrrry now and again a miss. So, I also suspect timing. However, just to shake down run the thing, I drove it about 7 miles and up to 50 mph without issue.

After the shakedown, I got really motivated to get moving on this thing!

This is what I decided to do, rightly or wrongly:

1) Go over fuel and carb
2) Time and replace ignition (I have OEM cap, rotor, points, condenser, wires from S.O.R, and their plugs)
3)Check valve lash (no tappet noise for now, so just put this further down the list)
4) Compression check

I have already replaced all fluids except diff's and coolant.

So, I've stumbled at step one so far...

I did notice when using starting fluid to get it running again after carb disassembly, that I did NOT have the two nuts tightened enough (the two nuts holding the carb, throttle plate, and spacer) and wetness emerged. I tightened them down, and I don't seem to have that problem anymore. I will check vacuum per the factory manual; I'll have to find the right fittings potentially to make that happen.

I'm curious if tonight it at least starts and runs the same way BEFORE I messed with it...

If yourself or anyone else can point out any easy mistake I've made thus far I'm all ears. The goal right now is to get a decently reliable driver back and forth to work (few miles away, less than 5 round trip) and just ENJOY this thing. I haven't done a proper introduction yet because I haven't taken it to the mountains for proper pictures :)

Thanks,
James
 
For reference, this vehicle was purchased from a fellow MUDDER, you can find the original listing last year from Ben Edwards. I bought this almost one year ago today.
 
Okay, update: I'm not afraid to state this publicly, I did not check that the fuel tank had run dry! Unbelievable....

Fired right up just fine. After warm up, I adjusted the timing so that the ball meets the needle at nearly 500 r.p.m. What a relief!!

Now, I will play with carb; I'll try the old brass float and re-adjust if necessary in both positions.

Time for the next project, ignition!

Thanks everyone for the help thus far, I cannot wait to get up in the mountains...if only they weren't closed due to fire....
 
Points ignition? Dwell? Valve adjustment?

Both are critical to vacuum, and vacuum is what makes a carburetor work.

Do some research. If we narrow it down to a true carburetor problem, I will be happy to assist you.


At a high level, what can you tell me about my carb? I've read the forum on stamp date decoding, so do I have an eariler air horn on a later body? Or does this carb look correct for my 40? The frame number is 50332; July '67 build?

Thank you!
 
Because your sight glass is not period correct, it tells me the production date is of little value. This is a factory replacement carb. It would have been sold with an aluminum tag anchored by an airhorn screw with a five digit code identifying which carb it was supposed to replace.
 
Hey James,
Did you get your carb worked out? I've got the 67 that's a few numbers off from your's (frame 50343) and I just found a box that came with my truck that I hadn't catalogued, and lo and behold I found the original carb! It's the SD40, with the big sight glass, so I agree yours must be a replacement from some point. Curious if you've sent yours off for rebuilding. Included with my rig were a couple of Keyster rebuild kits, so I and trying to convince myself NOT to attempt it myself.
Hope to cross paths when mine is running again one day.

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Hello! Yes I thought at some point I'd PM you because you're close by and you have a pretty much all-original 1967. I'm sorry to hear about how your acquired it, but it's fantastic that you're restoring it to be enjoyed! Equally as crazy is how close the frame numbers are, and the colors are the same! I have virtually zero idea where my 40 spent its life, but the extremely rust free nature of it suggest probably Eastern Washington (got it from Dalton Gardens) and never driven on salty roads.

I did not send my carb off for rebuilding; I was able to either modify, or use as is the gaskets that came with the wrong Keysler kit that I ordered in addition to just cleaning every single component thoroughly. I set the idle adjusting screw one and a half turns from all the way in and have never had an issue of it firing up in a few cranks. So, long story short, I SHOULD replace the jets with the correct ones from a rebuilt kit, but I haven't yet. It runs and drives too nice I figure for something to be wrong.

So that being said..okay cool, someday to be correct I need a large glass carb. That being said, after completely disassembling the carb, cleaning and reassembling it, I feel confident I could do it with a Leatherman, or even a finger nail clipper in the field-it's very easy, so don't feel you can't do it.

It's awesome you have the original carb!!!!
 
Be warned, SD40s have a tendency for the fuel bowl to warp. Especially noticeable at the top edge of the window, it will look like the top has been sucked in. See this thread, starting with post #14. SD40 big window carb leaking.

In addition, my carb’s throat was also warped so that the choke plate wouldn’t work properly.

Both problems were fixed by Mark for me. My truck hadn’t run at all in many years, but it started instantly after installing the carb after Mark returned it to me.
 

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