1966 FJ40 preservation/build (2 Viewers)

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Thanks, I still prefer driving the FJ40 over most newer rigs. For example, my work rig is a 2016 Rubicon. With less than 50,000 miles both heads have been replaced, and someone bumping into it in the parking lot did $3000 in damage to the all plastic fenders.
I was able to find a cotter pin at the hardware store as a temp fix.
 
Thanks, I still prefer driving the FJ40 over most newer rigs. For example, my work rig is a 2016 Rubicon. With less than 50,000 miles both heads have been replaced, and someone bumping into it in the parking lot did $3000 in damage to the all plastic fenders.
I was able to find a cotter pin at the hardware store as a temp fix.
lol...i read that like a cotter pin fixed your jeep fenders
 
Here in Calif by 2030 all we will get will be plastic cars that run off batteries--exactly what I used to play with as a kid ! Who elected these imbeciles?
 
Afternoon everyone! The reality of using a nearly 60 year old FJ40 as a daily driver and also in the backcountry caught up: Case in point, after doing a solo crossing of the Black Rock desert, a couple of little things failed, most pressing of which the early 40/25 style hinge pin broke after 250 miles of washboard roads. After soaking the screws in oil was able to pull the hinge and extract the broken pin. I have not had the chance to search the internet to see if a replacement pin is available, but in the meantime heading to hardware store to see if I can find something temporary so I can at least open the hood without tweaking anything. View attachment 3424569View attachment 3424570
For your broken hinges, I used this guy on Mud for my 1980:

Not stock but amazing quality and finish.
 
I’m stuck and could use some insight: Im assembling my corrugated top from multiple donors and cannot get the bi fold doors in the track. Is there a trick, or method to install the bi food door, or do I need to remove and partially disassemble the top? Thanks, Duane

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I’m stuck and could use some insight: Im assembling my corrugated top from multiple donors and cannot get the bi fold doors in the track. Is there a trick, or method to install the bi food door, or do I need to remove and partially disassemble the top? Thanks, Duane

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Duane,

I suggested you post here from FB. Hopefully someone will come along and give you the answer!
 
I undo one of the upper "p" shaped mounts and leave the second hanging by a loose screw, roll both lower wheels in at an angle until it's straight, push up so there is space to mount the "P" bracket not fastened and then all other loose hardware.

Stock up on choice cuss words beforehand, especially when you drop a screw with no hands left to hold everything.

Easiest is if the roof is off.
 
I’ve never had my bi-fold door completely off, but I’ve had to replace the rollers for the bottom section that roll up/down the side channels (using appropriate sized roller bearings and small bolt). The screws that hold those roller brackets are accessible with the bi-fold in the open folded position. So maybe having those removed will allow you to get the top hinge brackets in place and attached then put the rollers in place. Just another possible approach. The roof and these doors have a lot of flex and there’s lots of opportunity for things to get unaligned, as I suspect you know by now. So a handfull of choice words helps as mentioned, but patience is an absolute necessity. And another set of hands doesn’t hurt also as alluded to. GL.
 
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I’m stuck and could use some insight: Im assembling my corrugated top from multiple donors and cannot get the bi fold doors in the track. Is there a trick, or method to install the bi food door, or do I need to remove and partially disassemble the top? Thanks, Duane

View attachment 3475609
I have had mine off multiple times. its not the most fun. The easy thing is to have the fiber glass top cap off while installing it. feed both bottom rollers in first then screw both the hinges shaped like a 9 to the top sides at the top where it goes. make sure the 9 shaped hinges are on the scissor door when you are installing it. Lots of fiddling with the cap on. but it works.

As @locklaw said you will be frustrated when you drop a screw. It WILL happen.

Also city racer has the correct weather stripping for the bifold/scissor door. It helps with the rattling and fitment if you have those installed too. be sure to get the weather stripping for the guid rails and in-between the bifold door panels. Bi-fold Door Horizontal Weatherstrip for '62 to '64 Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/bi-fold-door-horizontal-weatherstrip-for-62-to-64-land-cruiser-fj40?variant=13041800740923

and Bi-fold Door Vertical Weatherstrip for '62 to '64 Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/bi-fold-door-vertical-weatherstrip-for-62-to-64-land-cruiser-fj40
 
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Need some favorite phrases?
F'ity F, F F works well for me.
 
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day 2. I have exhausted my vocabulary of colorful terms, while the bifold doors remain defiant.

Now removing the rear portion of the fiberglass lid. This would have been so easy had I bothered to read a few posts on IH8MUD prior to this misadventure
 
We have success. In addition to the good advice from Roastchestnuts, Middlecalf, Unimogguy, lockjaw and hellokitty, I recommend using screws with an Allen head rather than the “Phillips” ahead screws as the Allen key will hold the screw in place, rather than falling into a crevice when you inevitably drop them.

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Sweet tech everyone here, the recommendation to use allen head screws for this is top shelf, access has to be better. Awesome you got this back together. You‘re forgiven for your “colorful terms.” 😉
 

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