- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks for this. I was moving to fast to take advantage of this. Thank you
Builds 1964 FJ45LV Restoration underway (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter kanacki00
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- Thread starter
- #42
I like a few and took some ideas from it. I am going to keep the original frame, but going to replace the black plywood floor with white oak sealed a teak color. I think that could look pretty sweet. But I've been wrong before. Many times in fact.
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- #43
sorry i missed this. I would have rather spent the money with you. Lesson is slowing down a little. How's your project coming along? any tips regarding replacing the weather stripping for rear tailgate and hatch? How about windshield weather stripping? No worries.
This profile is what I used on the tailgate all the way around and it seals well. It has to be glued in place and I had to screw an aluminum strip on the bottom section because the texture of the bed-liner material would not allow the glue to stick.
![IMG_0839[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "IMG_0839[1].JPG")
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- #46
AWESOME and thanks for that info. You have a great looking rig.
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- #47
AWESOME, Thank you for sending over. Also, encouraged you put bedliner down because that is in my current plan. any regrets or would you do it again? thanks,
I actually used Lizard Skin sound and then ceramic heat coatings. I am very pleased so far. Truck is quiet and cool. I hear the wind in the door seals most of all. It is easy to spray in and I top coated with the same interior color I used on the dash and doors.
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I'm not sure Mr. T would release a vehicle with different sized rims? What size would the spare be? On the off chance they were different then the rolling height would have to be the same so both axles don't bind up when in 4WD; meaning the sagging rear end would have to be due to something else, potentially just tired springs. The 45V/LV rear guard is significantly lower too, contributing the issue.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
But there is that info in the manual. I was intrigued so pulled mine and sure enough same info. In addition to the different size they list different plys (6 vs. 8). Interestingly (maybe) the manual shows 4ply for the front and 6ply for the rears on the FJ43(L)-C, same size though for each. And on the FJ45(L)P-B they show 6ply for the front and 8ply for the rears, again same size for each. That also makes a spare tire choice and use temporary I guess.
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But a 7.00 x 15" in the front and a 7.00 x 16" in the rear would mean that the rear would ride higher than the front. I think the proofreader was on the sake that day.
Michael B
SILVER Star
If they are both 7.00 would that not mean the overall tire height is the same?
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I think in early tyres that represents sidewalk height in inches regardless of rim size. I think later tyres started the percentage of overall height craze. But am not 100%.If they are both 7.00 would that not mean the overall tire height is the same?
My LV had sagged so far over the years that at one point someone modified the oil pan so the front diff wouldn't hit it. The rear was off about 3inchs side to side, one spring had a negative arch, other flat.
Last summer I replaced the whole suspension with OME from Kurt, I pulled 2 leafs from the rear packs so it sat level(may or may not have pulled a front leaf). I had planned on running 33x9.5 or 10.5 but after I lifted it I decided I like the look of the small 28" tires, just looked more correct(my LV is very stock). I do run 33x10.5 on all the other cruisers.
I still run the single line brakes, but I replaced every hard and soft line, new master, new wheel cylinders etc. Would have cost the same to do disc....but I wanted to keep this one stock. If adjusted well, the drum work great.
I agree that my overstuffed bench seat is the cause of most of my bouncing around, suspension rides fantastic.
And I love the 3 on the tree, cant imagine changing it unless I was replacing the original f motor with a 2f or something.
Mine has no seat belts(and never did) and I have no desire to put them in....I'd rather be able to dodge the harpoon colume that be strapped in.
Last summer I replaced the whole suspension with OME from Kurt, I pulled 2 leafs from the rear packs so it sat level(may or may not have pulled a front leaf). I had planned on running 33x9.5 or 10.5 but after I lifted it I decided I like the look of the small 28" tires, just looked more correct(my LV is very stock). I do run 33x10.5 on all the other cruisers.
I still run the single line brakes, but I replaced every hard and soft line, new master, new wheel cylinders etc. Would have cost the same to do disc....but I wanted to keep this one stock. If adjusted well, the drum work great.
I agree that my overstuffed bench seat is the cause of most of my bouncing around, suspension rides fantastic.
And I love the 3 on the tree, cant imagine changing it unless I was replacing the original f motor with a 2f or something.
Mine has no seat belts(and never did) and I have no desire to put them in....I'd rather be able to dodge the harpoon colume that be strapped in.
No worries, I have yet to work on the LV. Currently have a 76 Fj40, 93 Fzj80, and 98Uzj projects going on. I did find a front heater for my 45LV. SCORE!
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- #56
Yeah, thank you for that. That makes way more sense then having 2 different sized rims. When i have too much time think i am excellent at over complicating an issue.
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- #57
Would happen to have an image of the front heater you found for yours? I have one in mine and have no idea it's origin. It looks like a cross between a squirrel fan and leaf blower. Wondering if that's what yours looks like. No worries and you have some pretty sweet projects underway.
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- #58
so it's been a while. We are making progress.
Looking closer at your vehicle and it appears you put 3 point seat belts on driver side. Did you cut a section in your pillar to reinforce then install? What model did you use? No worries, just curious as I go back and forth whether to add or not.
Yes, I put them on both sides. I got them from seat belt planet online. I did open up the inside of the pillar to insert a backing plate and attached nut. I drilled out a few spot welds on the inside and made a cut across so I could lift the inner sheet enough to slide the plate in and tack it through some holes I drilled. Then bent it back down and reattached.
The drivers side is working fine but the passenger side is getting twisted on the seat frame. I mounted the retracters to the angle piece in each corner at the bottom of the pillar. Where I like the seat puts the bottom of the seat frame out over the retracters and the belt does not have a straight lead back in to the spool.
