Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (4 Viewers)

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Here is what I would do on the seat situation

I would use the drivers seat in post #809

Why? Newer design, locks in upright position and has dual locks for the slider. The OEM 40/45 seat only used a slider lock on one side and they only pushed up into place with a spring clip holding them upright.

That seat will also bolt right to your frame. You can either remove the slider and bolt the assembly to your lower frame or just the seat.

I have bits of that same seat at the house I can mail you if needed.. It was only a donor of a couple parts so don’t expect anything super nice. I can also mail you a care package of all the retainer screws for the backs/fabric. I had to buy 100..

It should use a 65 seat foam and fabric from SOR or others. I used the SOR foam cause it was the easy button. Probably could have built my own but why..

I would recommend raising the seat and the steering wheel up.. For legroom. But I’m almost 6ft.

For the passenger seat you can probably use a 40 bench cover from SOR and foams.. It appears it does not have the kickout for the gas tank. It has been a while since I have seen the stock swb fixed top seats. I gave mine to paul in Montana.

I would probably grab the seat in post 819, if needed you can source a lock up mechanism for the back from a pass seat off a 40 somewhere.
or I used a 40 bench passenger seat and relocated the legs to the correct spots. Sleeved inside the tubing and welded them back together. the 40 bench that locks upright will match your drivers seat.

Sorry I took so long to respond. Was a busy weekend herding cats. Wish I was in the woods chasing bambi but probably isn’t going to happen this year.

 

[middlecalf]

@tornadoalleycruiser thanks for all the info. Is the seat shown in post 819 the passenger back or passenger bottom?

 

[middlecalf]

Interesting day. Disconnected the throttle linkage to one of the carbs, left the other in tact. Much less power, no acceleration, couldn’t get out of first gear. So I thought if I’m reducing available fuel, let’s keep going, So I screwed in the high speed needle all the way (these carters have these for “economy”), and couldn’t press the accelerator at all without dying, nothing beyond idle. Despite the black on the plugs (I did clean them first), it sure seems like I’m not getting enough fuel to handle the doubling of area of air inlet with the dual carbs. So I connected up the carb, opened both high speed needles a bit, verified both accelerator pumps were working, and got back to where I was before, including intermittent backfires and grey smoke (not black), no obvious fuel smell usually typical from running rich. A friend suggested returning the timing back to normal (ball, 7* BTDC), which I did. Backfires gone, and can run up the hills but still have an intermittent bog when going into the high speed circuit. Friend is checking around locally to see if he can find a Carter metering rod gauge (T109-102) so I can check that. Will also open the high speed needle as much as possible - unfortunately to accurately set that the rig needs to be on a tread mill at 30mph.

When I had the timing at 20* BTDC that maximized the vacuum (18) but I couldn’t remove the dipstick due to distributor interference. With timing at the ball (7*) the interference goes away, as well as backfire (backfired even at 15* which is just where dizzy interference started), but vacuum drops to 16*or so. I’ll mess with that a bit more to see if idle timing/mixture can improve that.

This thing is real sensitive to timing of the throttle plate opening - 2x on the available air compared to single carb - and what fuel is available. I’ve got idle to low speed transition working pretty good, need to figure low speed to high speed transition.

Additional Aggravations:
- smoke out tailpipe, dirty spark plugs
- oil leak out top of dipstick tube - this year doesn’t have the pvc system
- smoke out of valve cover breather
- oil leak around front of valve cover

Oh, and no deer in sight. Two coyotes. Almost metaphoric.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Seat stuff The one from Michael b. If he sells the whole thing( whole pass seat) just relocate the legs and swap in a 40 pass tilt later but I would just leave it alone and or swap the sides. Someone here has to have this piece around

 

[whitey45]

Did you try to run on each carb? All your symptoms point to a lot of blow by ? I would do a leak down test on each cylinder. I would also ditch the cool dual carb setup for a single! Something suspicious about that distributor too..

 

[wngrog]

Jesus. I’ll send you my known carb.

 

[middlecalf]

0 bucks, 15 does seen

So took the dogs out, Tozer’s getting there, he retrieved a quail to hand (mostly )

Just need a “Keep Homer Weird” bumper sticker.

 

[middlecalf]

Not much progress on seats. Added clips to driver’s side to match early tool box clamps. Left original ones in place, just to confuse the future archeologists.

@Michael B is that later passenger back available and if so what would it take to get to 83670? Wish I could find the whole enchilada but parts acquisition is a challenge for some of us outsiders.

 

[middlecalf]

Interesting to see if this helps with runtime issues. Only available option I could find was a printed one.

 

[Michael B]

It is available. I will get a shipping estimate and get back to you.

 

[Michael B]

PM with quote is in coming.

 

[middlecalf]

@whitey45 , et al, what do think is up? Note the gasping is concurrent with rapid throttle and the metering rod opening quickly (from vacumeter operation) - the silver link between the air horn and fuel line connection.

 

[whitey45]

Sounds like lack of fuel, are the accelerator pumps squirting a nice blast of fuel?( engine off)

 

[middlecalf]

Yeah, I’ve worked that quite a bit. When I first got this rig I rebuilt the carbs with kits from Mike’s carbs, I’ve used his stuff a lot. The accelerator pump springs in the kit were longer and stiffer than what was in them so they wouldn’t allow the pump stroke to happen until the throttle was opened quite a bit - the pump arms on these carters are spring loaded of sorts to allow a longer stroke, but with a too stiff of a pump return spring it delayed the start of the pump stroke and there was this same gasping. I’ve since put the originals back in and the squirt starts right away but still gasps if the pump stroke is too fast. Easing the throttle up the engine revs great and fully. Don’t know if it’s an atomization issue or not enough fuel squirt - they look at least comparable to the squirts from my Carter AFB on my ‘65’s SBC which runs great. When I have the carbs disconnected from each other the same thing happens using each individual carb.

Offenhauser actually shows these types of carbs (Carter 413S) in there article on the dual carb setup, so they worked at some point .

 

[middlecalf]

I made several videos, and now I can’t remember which configuration this one is, but it sure looks like I’m not getting any accelerator pump arm movement. Needs more scrutinization.

 

[middlecalf]

Yeah so that first video is with the stiffer replacement springs, no pump movement. This one is with original springs, better with some pump movement but still needs more. Standard pump travel setting is 20/64” on these carters, I think I’m a little short. I’ll extend them and see what happens.


And you can see my other main issue, burning some oil. Compression test shows good compression, vacuum test doesn‘t indicate valve seating issue, and leak down indicates air into oil pan on all cylinders - don’t really know what’s normal for that or even how to test amount of leakage (and given compression is good is it the issue).

 

[middlecalf]

No I’m not rebuilding my engine tomorrow . I’m pheasant hunting tomorrow with the dogs and heading to spey cast for steelhead on Wednesday.

 

[whitey45]

A lot of blow by out of the valve cover, no bueno, probably have a broken ring or two, or three!

 

[middlecalf]

 

[cult45]

Hate to say it - time for a temporary 2F. With retrofitted 135 valve cover of course. Just have to pull the cover every time you wanna top her up with full mineral.