Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (5 Viewers)

[middlecalf]

In the meantime had to “adjust” a PO repair on the radiator support and frame support probably from rust, but for whatever reason PO decided to drill the hole at 11.3” and notch the slot in the brace cuz the slots are spaced 11.5”. Cut, splice, melt, grind, drill new hole, prime, paint, install. How hard is that?

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

Paul it looks like you and John have worked everything out, but that was a PO mod on my radiator support bar. I ended up welding those wholes up and putting the bar in the stock location.

The rusty green SWB isn’t rusty or green anymore I should be wrapping up the resto by August if all goes well.

 

[middlecalf]

Wow JP! Is that Seminole Red-ish? August, double wow. Maybe August 2020 for me. Maybe.

Ok, that bar is a real curiosity. At least two with that same mod. Wasn’t that originally an Oregon rig? I dragged mine from Nevada, but have no knowledge of its life. Based on its extensive rust and frame pitting I suspected it might have spent some time in Canada, or a salt mine somewhere, . I can’t see any residue of welding on mine to fill holes, the metal looks aged (pitted) everywhere. Maybe an early mod before rusting set in. But what’s the purpose of the mod? Concerned about blocking flow to the radiator? Space needed for some other cooler? Curious, curious, curious.

 

[Michael B]

Paul it looks like you and John have worked everything out, but that was a PO mod on my radiator support bar. I ended up welding those wholes up and putting the bar in the stock location.

View attachment 1980632


The rusty green SWB isn’t rusty or green anymore I should be wrapping up the resto by August if all goes well.

View attachment 1980634

JP I wish there were a build thread on this rig!? I'm just sayin'!!

 

[middlecalf]

A little better

John @pardion your return box will hit the post office here in the next couple of days. Thanks!

 

[pardion]

A little better
View attachment 1988686

John @pardion your return box will hit the post office here in the next couple of days. Thanks!

No hurry Paul, I wish that old shroud was in better condition. John

 

[middlecalf]

And a little more better. I don’t think I’ll add material to the ring flange that was trimmed for some reason in its past around the bottom half. The way it is should be good enough, if a better one pops up in someone’s junk pile in the future I can easily swap it out. Yeah, that’s John Deere green, lots of scrap tractor implement metal around the ranch. Kind of a melding of two of the best worlds. Strip, cleanup and paint time.

I love spring. And we got the daughter married off. Son this fall. Metaphoric pic of such.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

Sounds like Freedom is on the horizon Paul! I’m jealous we’re just getting started here, my daughter turned 3 yesterday

I predict an influx of time and money for the SWB upcoming

 

[pardion]

Well enjoy the upcomming empty nest, Oldest grandaughter will be driving this summer and youngest is 8, all 4 have spent 3 day's on the Rubicon Trail (chalet) this year. Snow runs.

 

[middlecalf]

I was excited when I opened the box with the new Toyota radiator in it back in March. And a quick scan told me it survived the shipping unlike some that have been discussed in the many posts wrt shipping problems with radiators. Well I finally was getting around to installing it along with the “upgraded “ fan shroud, and hoses et al. Didn’t even pay attention to the fact the inlet is pressed down and the top is buckled somewhat. Talk about being in a bolt-and-go zone, lol. No coolant added fortunately, it doesn’t look compromised as best I can tell. The box shows no sign of damage or whether one of the Kardashian’s sat on it. But something did somewhere sometime before I got it. What do you think, see if it can be returned or go with the slightly more aerodynamic unit?

 

[Bear]

Middlecalf,

I imagine you paid full price for your radiator--and should deserve to have one un-damaged. However, you likely will get nowhere with whoever sold it to you now that it's several months later. If it was a local dealership, it's worth a try going in person with the radiator and box. If it was shipped to you, you can ask for a discount for damaged merchandise, but less likely you will be successful.

You will hear that it was YOU who dropped it, certainly not the Parts Department. And oddly enough, they probably didn't damage it. It seems quite a few arrive at the Toyota warehouses damaged to some degree--all because the world's largest automobile company wanted to save a few cents in packing them safely. The next radiators I buy, I have decided to drive the distance and pay the extra money at a dealership, have them open it in front of me, and refuse to pay for it if it is damaged in any way. Even then, I would be curious to know if they then simply put it back in the box and sell it to the next buyer who wants one--it certainly wouldn't be the first time that stunt is done to an unsuspecting buyer.

Sorry this happened to you.

 

[middlecalf]

Thanks Bear, we'll see what the dealership (not local) says tomorrow. I went the route I did because of previous experience (good), and cost (about 50% less than local).

 

[wngrog]

Gives the radiator character

 

[middlecalf]

So I made one

 

[middlecalf]

And instrument cluster is back together, and sort-of almost kinda original. Didn’t have YB wire for the made up CHG gauge so made that too from Y wire and black permanent marker. 55-yr throwback to days of crayons and coloring. A solid contribution to the PO hall of f(sh)ame but at least I have a functioning CHG gauge, lol.

Start

Finish (took me 0.2 miles to complete). I know a ‘63 should be body color, but I’ve never liked that on the dash stuff. Cest le vie!

 

[middlecalf]

And the pocket is mostly original now too.

Start

Finish

 

[FJ45VTOZ]

great work, looks very nice...

 

[middlecalf]

So I’m stuck with my “character” radiator, unless it leaks, cuz it’s under warranty for a year. Oh well.

I’ve been cutting out rust (actually cutting out body that’s not there because of rust), and starting to tack in new pieces. More John Deere steel. Butt welding 16 or 18 gauge is challenging, now I know why most pics shown of body work are before, after grinding, filling and sanding, and after paint. At great risk of embarrassment - not really, nothing a bunch of dirt and mud, and time, can’t hide, lol - here’s a pic after spot welding (part of it has been ground). Good thing this isn’t a full on resto, I’d have to learn how to weld. I’m doing this outside so it’s fluxcore due to wind. Here, Spot, here.

 

[middlecalf]

This is at least as fun as melting metal. The hills this time of year can be challenging to get around in, but I have to cuz the cows are such needy bastards. Good thing I have a winch - wait, it isn’t functional - you think a hundred year old fence post will hold the winch cable? Maybe a sage brush? Good thing I carry a shovel.

 

[middlecalf]

Not sure what’s faster or slower, metal rusting to oblivion or the time it takes to replace metal that’s rusted to oblivion. Still have one more major floor (rear sill) replacement piece and a bit of weld cleanup and leveling. And seam sealing. And painting - maybe, I’m going to determine status of original SR paint under the rattle can blue/green, see if it’s capable of going into the patina category. Not sure how much body fill was used over the SR.

This is where I’ll end up with the dash, if I’ve got the holes identified correctly (yes, no?). Blue taped holes will be welded closed. Not yet 100% on the big holes on the left, but given the early idiot lights for CHG and oil pressure (no amps) I think I want the volt meter, and the tach for tuning/hot rodding ).

So wrt the cowl, where does the choke and throttle cables penetrate? (I didn’t have either installed so I don’t have a good history). Is the pointed-to hole the right one or even original? I have the rest of the holes figured out and blue taped ones are to be plugged. Thanks for any help.