Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)

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‘bout to go rabbit hunting in another hole. Care to guess where?

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ummm...

U-bolt skid plate?
 
Looks like a crack between the cylinders in the water jacket. :frown:
 
Yup. Not sure how bad everything is, obviously very cruded up, will know more of it's state when I get the flush done. But I did manage to get the block drain unplugged, so that counts for something.
 
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By all means don’t spend a bunch of money on a messed up F block.
Ah, where’s the fun in that? Amazing how much stuff accumulates in these blocks. If your block drain doesn’t drain with a lot of gusto, and your having over-heating issues, it’s your plugged block, not necessarily the thermostat or radiator or whatever (although those don’t help if plugged or non-functional.). The flow in the pic is after I blew air into the block drain and freed up a lot of junk after which the flow nearly cleared the far side of this very handy big bucket, especially with it being 20-deg. F outside (65 in shop). Fluid is evaporust.
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Lots of rusty sludge. Second treatment today.
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I’ve got 3-4 that I’ll never use
Well I might take up the offer (?) if things look crappy after I inspect post-flush. In the meantime, have any extras of these that are functional?
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Finished flushing mud from the water jacket, clear flush now though still somewhat ugly inside but I can easily ignore that. I’m going with @Vae Victus on this.

Old black water, keep on rollin'
Mississippi moon, won't you keep on shinin' on me?

(sorry @wngrog lol)

Flipped the turd over, pulled the pan and everything’s there, with a good showing of sludge but no evidence of water/flush intrusion. Cleaned oil pump filter and pan, and new gaskets are on deck. I think I need to pull all 4 bolts on the rear bearing race to replace the rear main seal? (And reinstall all shims and oil everything on assembly, 101 stuff). Correct?
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New RMS in. Easy one :banana: job with block on stand. Hopefully it doesn’t leak, but there aren’t any leftover parts on the workbench so should be good to go. Oil pan next.

All those oil galley plug threads and it’s mishaps, doesn’t look like this F motor has one. Good.
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I'm chasing down exhaust system info. There are available parts, but getting any info on fit/functionality for this '63 FJ45 has been unproductive. Toyota doesn't know (before their '69 cutoff on online database) and SOR is still searching. I don't want to have to trailer this to the closest town to get a muffler shop to hack together something. I need everything from manifold to tailpipe. Here's what I know so far: Down pipe 17401-60040 is still available, fitment for this rig unknown; Muffler 17510-60070 is still available, fits down pipe but any other fitment for this rig is unknown; Tailpipe 17430-61120 is still available, but no info on it's fitment to muffler let alone rig; no clue on hangers front-to-rear as far as availability. I have this pic (I think from JP @ClemsonCruiser) but it's for a LWB (not SWB), and a few pics of SWB's posted on mud that show a tailpipe that exists to the driver's side like the 40's.
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If anyone has a parts catalog and numbers for an SWB or can provide info I'd appreciate it.
 
yeah I'll do that if it comes to that (I'd rather have the exhaust on before body - oh yeah, license thing too), but the closest exhaust shop is about 40 miles or so away. I guess I could wear ear plugs. But why are these parts still available, and who uses them, and who knows what they fit? If I ever find out, I'm keeping it a secret. No, top secret, need to know stuff.
 
I’ve used the parts you listed as available from Toyota but always had the rest of exhaust made like others had stated. Brackets are going to be a NLA at Toyota for any year pre 69. I can look at my 63 parts books on Tuesday for you.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark. I was whining a bit.
 
Conundrum. I have a new GMB water pump (Japanese), and the four bolts are 10mmx1.5 (one is longer because of alternator upper bracket). They don’t fit my F’s holes, too big in diameter. The bolts that were there holding the existing WP are smaller, measure 3/8 and probably equivalent to 1.5 coarse (but head is 14mm which matches a 10mm bolt). Possibly they could be 9mmx1.5, but a rarity if so. Coolermans** bolt/nut spreadsheet says these should be 10mmx1.5 (matches what came in new Japanese WP). But 3/8 is smaller than 10mm, so these couldn’t have been retapped to US spec. And lastly, these 3/8 block bolts are the same as the bolts that hold the lower thermostat housing to the head. Pic of bolt head below. What gives?
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** spreadsheet shows 5 bolts for WP, but only 4 actually
 
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Gracias John. So how does one end up with smaller non-metric holes? Maybe this is a forklift engine.

Does your info show a spacer on the top generator bracket? And if so any info on such? Test fitting everything I have seems to show I need something around 3/4 inch or so. Definitely more than the difference between the long and short bolts you listed however. SOR shows one 020-071A.
 
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Paul, I can't find the spacer in my books, but I know they need to be there. I'll add a little suspense for you and measure the bolt and spacer tomorrow. Helicoil on those bolt holes? John
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Thanks John. If you happen to have an extra spacer (and bolt, but yours are probably metric) and even the long pivot bolt (for bottom bracket) I can help you clear some space on that shelf (you have the most amazing collection it looks like). If not, I can get one from spector or with your measurements I can most likely just make one. Thanks!

No Helicoil in any of the holes, they look original. Unless there's some way to make a helicoil completely disappear. You can see one of the holes in the pic above (I think the 3rd hole where the upper bracket actually mounts to), doesn't look like anything but original to me. I'm going to google Toyota F engine and Forklift now.:hillbilly:
 
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Here is the 64 parts catalog shot of the exhaust system. Not sure if the 63 is different. Also a shot of a early 64 repair manual water pump set up.
 

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