Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (9 Viewers)

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In my boredom waiting for my chemical attack to be completed before I launch another napalm attack on the spring pins, I busted out a tape measure. Maybe a mistake.

Based on FSM, my diagonals aren’t bad, worst is diagonal C which is approx. 1/2” off (0.23” is max suggested by FSM). For 55 yrs old not bad I guess. I’m a wee bit older and at least that much shorter than years ago.
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But I think my passenger side is pushed in about a 1/2”. Hard to take pics but the measurements show some deviations (if you can read my scribbling) and the last two pics show a line along the frame top that should fall similarly for each side, but passenger side is definitely 1/2” narrower. All the frame body mounts match fairly closely to the cab body mounts, so I’ll probably ignore all of this anyhow.
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Driver’s side
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Passenger side
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Yeah but the rabbit is running a lot slower now that I’ve almost got the rear axle and springs off. Most folks herein are excited when they get a roller chassis, I’m almost as excited to have a rollerless one.
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I’m pretty sure I can ignore most of the FSM advice since the pics are for a 45R not 45L. Do the aussies have our manuals and we accidentally have theirs? Lol, marketing wonks, you can live with and without them. Hopefully I haven’t insulted too many (few?:D).
 
Got the rear spring pins out finally. Not in as bad of shape as the shackles but will most likely go on the replacement list. Are the aftermarket ones ok, or are there OEM available? Interesting that the bushings were still in some semblance of functionality, so my guess is that they were replaced in the distant past. Shackle bushings were SOL, dried to the bone.
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Drained the gear oil, not terrible looking, smells like good ol’ gear oil. Almost have one shackle perch removed. That part of the frame will need some TLC also.
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Forum caution: No yawning allowed.
 
BFH but mostly fire and chemicals to release the rubber from the pins. I strengthened my Ed’s Red with acetone and White gas, plus a little brake cleaner spray finally broke the bond. Oh yeah, and time.

Might have to take a break from this beater to replace some/all the bushings in my 40 beater. Have to get some bushings here quick, haven’t heard from Toyota on what I ordered from them yet, and my 40 is my work rig so down time’s an issue. Calling Kurt in tha am.
 
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Progress is slowed a bit, had to address loose spindle shaft nuts on the 40. Also have to address worn bushings. Nuts tightened back up, bearings repacked and rig back at work hauling protein tubs for the girls’ and kids’ salad buffet. This will be the 45’s duty when it gets running.
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Cross member and braces at local machine shop for repro. We’ll see what they come up with.
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Cat hunting. Curiosity thing (stay with me... lol)...

So the rear light assembly on the right was loose inside my ‘63 FJ45 rig, not sure if it’s what’s original. Holes (despite being mangled) don’t line up with holes in cross member - too wide (this rig and also my ‘65 FJ40). The assembly on the left is the replacement - OME lights (Toyota number in second pic), repro brackets from SOR and buckets from @pardion (grommet is temp removed). Replacement light is slightly smaller in diameter but bucket is deeper and doesn’t have the alignment bump and mounts to the rear of the bracket instead of under. What is the unit on the right for/from? No writing or symbols on it anywhere that I can see. Maybe this is a ‘69 and later assembly? I’m pinging some mudders who have been working these rear light assemblies in other threads - @HelloKitty65 @oregon fj @Indygbd @Living in the Past
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Thanks John. Scanning SOR site it looks like I should have the smaller diameter (2-3/4") lenses for this '63 (through '67 for FJ45's), not these middle sized (4") lenses which are for '64 to '68 FJ40's. I originally got these and the brackets for my '65 FJ40 to restore the rear end of that rig, but then picked up the '63 FJ45 and just figured I'd use them on it since it didn't have any at all (except that loose one in the cab that's not even close to correct) and they fit. Oh well, close enough for me. Those plastic cups are another reason to consider mudflaps, I bet they get beat up pretty bad sitting in direct LOS of rear wheel projectiles. Ok I'm done with this curiosity-rabbit trail. Cat's dead.
 
Rear axle stuff rust-converted. If I can get the u-bolts busted I’ll put on the nos bumper gnomes I have.
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Got the driver’s side perches, body mount and doubler off. The odd-shaped piece is what’s left of the doubler. Anyone have a pic or parts schematic of what this is suppose to look like? I’ll make something up either way, probably incorporate the body mount bolts into it to spread the perch loads into more area of the frame web.
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So here’s where I’ve been trying to get to for weeks now. All the rivets along the bottom flange are removed in this area, so I’ll cut the box frame along a line shown in red. Top box flange is fine, as is the frame except I’ll straighten the lower flange of the frame in that one spot with a BF wrench. Then bend a channel to match the frame curve, drill and bolt the lower flanges using existing holes and weld along the cut (red) line. This way I don’t have to deal with the welded-in cross member, it’s still solid to box and frame, but I’ll have removed all of the box that’s TU and replaced insitu with new material that’s structurally connected (bolted, not welded) to the frame so any future work is not necessarily impacted. It’s a plan. That’s as good as I can do IMHO without a complete frame redo or complete replacement (surrender that is you silly Frenchmen). This bloody thing will not defeat me.
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A few less of these events this summer will give me more time though. No injuries or structure losses, just several tons of hay and a semi-rig and trailer lost for a local family that could have done without this too.
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Hay stopped burning. Took five days. And about 5k gal of water.

Got the passenger side stuff off the frame. Not as bad as the driver’s side but same plan is in play. The extent of the doubler destruction is curious. Metallurgy.
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I think I’m done drilling and air chiselling rivets. The rivets that hold on components like spring perches are pretty serious buggers, be prepared for a bit more work than the nominal frame rivets if doing a frame disassembly. First shot by machine shop to make rear cross member and supports was close but not close enough. Second pass underway. He’s a Jeep owner, I have to give him leeway, lol.
 
Uh oh, now what?
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You know, it’s one thing to unbolt or sand or grind or whatever when working on these old rigs. But when you start to cut, literally, it gets a bit serious. No turning back. Even if cutting stuff that needs to be cut. This needed to be cut. Now I get to work on my metal work and welding skills. Maybe @Pauciflora needs a break from winter and a summer retreat in sunny Idaho. Need a break from the cold? You could handle this work, but bring tools! Lol.
 
Uh oh, now what?
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You know, it’s one thing to unbolt or sand or grind or whatever when working on these old rigs. But when you start to cut, literally, it gets a bit serious. No turning back. Even if cutting stuff that needs to be cut. This needed to be cut. Now I get to work on my metal work and welding skills. Maybe @Pauciflora needs a break from winter and a summer retreat in sunny Idaho. Need a break from the cold? You could handle this work, but bring tools! Lol.
Just in the process of packing my bags. Sweet Idaho. Couldn't imagine any place I'd rather be.............and I'd get to work on a Landcruiser.
 
Well it is summer in the West. A newish fire just a couple miles from here, fortunately not a threat to us. Hope those in northern Cali are safe.
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2 of 3 rear member replacements in hand. Not bad for a Jeep guy. Weird handling real metal around this frame, lol.

...and I'd get to work on a Landcruiser.
...and eat real Idaho beef!
 
Wish this wasn’t so hard. Almost but not quite will work. 3rd time a charm? I’m going to go float a river tomorrow to get this stuff off my mind for a bit.
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Rabbit hole almost done.
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