Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (12 Viewers)

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I guess I could try the later daystar puck mounts to get more height.
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But that doesn’t answer the why the fugowee do I need more height.
 
@Splangy I read your posts on FJ40Jim’s 45 SWB thread about the differences in ‘62 transfer cases from later ones. Do you know if the ‘62 cases sat lower or were angled more than the later ones? I’m trying to figure my interference issue as stated above.

Did you ever find an answer to your question as to which mounts go where on your 45?

My 45 is an LV so I’m not sure which front body mounts were used on the the pickups. I have to assume it’s the larger ones like the 40’s.

I have an extra side shift trans and early t-case here, but I don’t have the 63 and newer setup to compare it to.
 
I’ve never owned a 45 pickup (yet), but my 1964 FJ45 parts manual shows a body mount that’s unique to the 45 and not shared with the 40. I suspect they’re taller than the 40 mounts, particularly at the rear of the cab.

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Maybe a 64 doghouse?
Do you have one I could try and see if it fits?

With this much shimming in the front mount...
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...the shift linkage just starts to clear the stock tunnel.
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Clearly there‘s a hump change needed for the later top shift tranny. If a later hump fits and works that’d be great. Don’t really want to pursue mod-ing this hump, plus having that much body lift, or chasing down a side shift tranny.
 
@Splangy thanks for the post. The LWB 45’s definitely have different mounts. I learned that from @wngrog ’s GOAT thread. Nolen sent me pics of the mounts on the ‘64 SWB Rotunda build, and they’re very similar to FJ40’s.

I’d like to track down a decent ‘64 tranny hump to see if that gets me the clearance I need. Maybe Paul @3_puppies or Brian @whitey45 have one?
 
Looks like I need to go from this ...
(‘63 tunnel for column shift with side shift tranny)
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... to this (sans the crappy PO plate weld for a floor shift mod)
(‘65 tunnel for column shift with top shift tranny)
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On edit: that '65 won't work, floor holes aren't the same position or I'd have to make a (some) new hole (s).
 
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Trimmed the floor flange ...
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... got all 6 standard height body mounts in place (large in front, smalls in middle and rear) ...
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... and nothings come loose yet. Cabs back on. Still have to mod the tranny hump to clear the top shift levers. I have a ball peen hammer 👿.
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That's what I did...ball-peen hammer.
 
It's coming together! Looks ace!!
 
Thanks mate!
 
My old plates are available if you want them.

1/G 1268 Check with the DMV to see if the plate number is still available. I think I had to send them a photo of the plate too as they want to make sure its in decent shape to be used before they'll approve it. And you only need to run one plate with the year-of-manufacture program, not two, so I've always just had the rear plate on, not front and rear. There used to be a guy over off Chinden that would custom make whatever plate/number/county combination you wanted for $100 or so. Not sure if he's still there or not, last I talked to him was around 2001.

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I’ll definitely check with DMV. I was thinking of only the rear as well. Appreciate the offer. I’ll let you know. Paul
 
Good question Nolen, I do need to look at the passenger side of the welded top one (‘65) as there is that floor hump in the ‘63 that‘s over the transfer case. Wasn‘t sure if the ‘64 tunnel @Owyhee Jackass was initially looking at using on his ‘62 ever fit or not. But I haven’t hit any leads on one anyhow.

Fred Flintstone didn’t use a tranny hump, that’s a possible option.
 
Column.

But the tranny is the 1/2 generation later top shift version, not the side shift version that was stock to this early ‘63 rig hence the need to change the tunnel to allow access for the later shift linkage.
 
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1G numbers not in use. PM sent @Owyhee Jackass.

On edit: there going to be used now on this rig some day!
 
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Roofs on, serious fight.
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Maybe some tech: (1) the city racer LPB roof seal will work on these fixed top SWBs, it needs to be stretched in the corners, otherwise it fits reasonably with door holes aligning and new holes added along the back. (2) I loosely installed bolts along the back first, then propped the front up to get the windshield seal in place, then lowered the front onto both seal flanges, and using the string technique for other glass install I was able to pull the inside flange into position - with a little soapy water - leaving the outside flange in place. Installed other bolts and clamped everything down. (3) But in order to do that, given this is an old rig and I had it disassembled and replaced a lot of metal, the holes didn’t align enough - so I jacked the low side of the frame until everything aligned enough, bolted it up, lowered and nothing popped 😆. I actually did the same thing when I put the cab on to get the proper cab mount height. This thing is sprung to a 1/2 inch of its life. Good weld quality test 🙄.

My daughter’s Brittany Sophie has done her inspection, gave it a claws up.
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