Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (4 Viewers)

[pardion]

"Seek and ye shall find" I was wrong in post #341 and deleted the comment. Low and behold I found the shift shaft. John

 

[middlecalf]

Score John @pardion ! I was just starting to formulate workaround options in the shop today. So what would it take to get the rod circled in red (and the pin for the TC clevis)? I have the rest but not sure about breaking up the group - but then I’d have extras, lol. Sending a pm, email, classified directive, presidential executive order and an invading army of intelligent aliens (wonder if unintelligent aliens would ever figure out how to get here?). Ok, just a pm and email, I exaggerate a bit.

And look at that expert path through the snow field.

 

[middlecalf]

Turning into a great day! Even get to wallow in more OEM stuff. Thanks Matt @RAGINGMATT !

 

[middlecalf]

Got the rear shaft in. Can you dig those angles?

Small tech:
Get all four tranny bolts started before snugging them up. Helps with slight alignment issues and getting that last bolt started otherwise, lol. Tech sponsored by Georg @orangefj45.

If your emergency brake cable is functional but the outer sleeve is cracked/missing pieces, and you don’t want to buy a replacement, 1/2” polyolefin shrink tubing works great for reestablishing a weather barrier. Cable has to be removed, tube slid on and heat-gun heat applied for a stunning rehabilitation . You’ll need around 54” of tubing - std. length is either 6”, 4ft or 10 miles - or you’ll end up having to use an additional piece of a different color and it will look nice and redneck. That didn’t happen to me. Really. It is an emergency - RED - brake anyhow.

 

[orangefj45]

woohoo!!!!

 

[middlecalf]

The current OEM downpipe for the FJ40 doesn’t fit an FJ45 SWB “out of the box” as has been suggested. It’s about 9-1/2” short. I’ll see if my local (25miles) muffler shop can extend it, hopefully the dip is enough to fit under the torque tube. Anyone addressed this in the past?

 

[Texican]

The two levers in the engine compartment have to be in the neutral position for the shift lever to transit from 1-2.....the rods going to the trans do it....

 

[middlecalf]

@Texican trying to track what you’re helping with, are you saying the tranny needs to be in neutral before the tcase can be shifted?

 

[Texican]

I was responding to a question about the three on the tree from the start of this thread, not realizing it was18 pages long.....

 

[middlecalf]

Finally got the tcase hi/lo shift rods built and installed.

Cross reference on replacement boots:

The Midwest Control Products RFS-6 boots work pretty well, not as heavy rubber as OEM boots and a tab big in the J dimension but good fit in G and P dimensions. Install on rods is easy especially with Seals-It tool and a little silicone spray before sliding on. Also injected grease in joint before sliding boot on. Should work, well see.
View attachment 1923340

 

[middlecalf]

Does anyone have any detail pics or information on specifics for parts Q and R in this pic?

I’m missing them and SOR doesn’t have them, don’t know part numbers, etc. Will probably have to invent something if I had a little bit of info about them - I think they’re “seals” of some sort. Thanks.

 

[middlecalf]

Found some info.

Q - dust seal retainer 33574-35010
R - dust seal 90303-17004

Better pic, looking for parts 33574 and 33505.

The seal might still be available but the retainer isn’t. If I were to guess, which is probably what I’m going to have to do, is the dust seal (35505) is made of felt, and the retainer (33574) is either plastic or thin metal, pressed in placed into bracket 33571. These keep the grease in place inside the bracket, and have holes that allow the shaft 33501 to move when shifting. Looks like I’ll have to go into invention mode (again) unless someone has these sitting on a shelf- .

 

[middlecalf]

Found this at McMaster Carr, perfect dimensions amazingly.

Line		Product	Ordered	Delivers	Price	Total
1	5154T14	Spring-Loaded Rotary Shaft Seal for 11/16" Shaft Diameter, 0.669" ID x 0.999" OD	1 each	Mar 15	9.66 each	9.66

Shaft is probably 17mm, but 0.669 is probably close enough lol. This should press fit perfectly. Since this is a spring loaded seal I’ll probably forgo part 33505 seal.

 

[middlecalf]

Finally got the vacuum FD unit in place. Thanks to John @pardion for the replacement (of the replacement) switch and Mark @Coolerman for the new switch wires. And of course Georg @orangefj45 for the unit itself. Cleaned up well and everything functions using a hose to suck the drive unit into/out of gear. Rubber boots on drive still available from SOR. The rubber wire boot was aged but a dip in Plasti Dip heated (in water bath) gave it new(ish) life. The hi/lo shift rod (also from @pardion) has JUST enough clearance from the FD unit in all three positions.

 

[middlecalf]

So the seal fits well, and seems to work. We’ll see in 40 yrs.

This rig had the remnants of the side shift transmission linkages, so in putting in the replacement top shift linkages I’m working off of limited pics and limited knowledge. So I’ll start here:

What gear is the tranny in? Can I hook up the linkages with the tranny in this gear, and the shift lever will be in whatever position for the associated gear?

 

[cult45]

Not sure if this will help, but it may. When I pulled the stick outta my J30 [floor shift], both selectors had to be in neutral for the stick to go back in and be able to function normally through its full range of motion. I accidentally had one in gear and the other in neutral [IIRC], and the engine would start but the trans wouldn't shift, even though it read like it was in neutral. Or something. So the middle of both sides of the H-pattern of your gearbox should be neutral. I think. Bad explanation I know. HTH. Lol.

 

[middlecalf]

Thanks @cult45, that’s more information than I had so every bit helps! I can get the side lever in the middle position, not sure where the top one is as it doesn’t move much, of course the clutch is engaged since the hydraulics aren’t hooked up with the cab off. It would be great to be assured this is all functioning proper before I put the cab back on, but how without the clutch functional? Maybe a ratchet strap to pull the clutch fork and disengage the clutch? Lol, ignorance is ... that ignorance does. Run Forest, run!

John @pardion any help for this ignorant mechanic (me)?

 

[pardion]

Paul, does this help?

 

[middlecalf]

Thanks John @pardion it does (has) help as I’ve got that and use it. But it doesn’t say anything about the shift linkage position vs. gear position nor anything about the control shaft upper bracket shaft rotating on its threads, just to “ Make sure that the hole provided on the shaft be positioned correctly.”

 

[cult45]

Judging by the schematic [back when you were chasing parts Q and R in Fig 52], the arm on the side of the box actually slots into gear and the arm on the top merely chooses which side of the H pattern to actuate, either R / 1 or 2 / 3. Which would make sense given that the top arm doesn't move very much. I'd hazard a guess and say if it's in neutral on the side lever then you'll be okay. Don't forget you have a removable trans tunnel. So all should be swell.

But then again, life is like a box o' gears. You never know what you gonna git.