1962 FJ40 Ignition switch help

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In the process of replacing burned wires from a meltdown, I inadvertently forgot to take notes on the wire going from the "IG" connection on the voltage regulator to the ignition switch. Unfortunately electrical diagrams I've seen don't show that connection path. I'm pretty sure it was connected to the "B" connection on my ignition switch below. That black wire in the photo on the "B" connection was the main wire that melted. The wire that goes to the voltage regulator suffered collateral damage and was piggy backed with another wire on the switch. Does that sound right?

20220512_160359.jpg
 

1MAC

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That's not an original ignition switch, and those aren't all the original wires to the switch. Would originally be BW (Black with white stripe) to starter, BY to ignition and BR from ammeter (not voltage regulator). The ammeter wire is essentially an unfused heavy gauge wire connected directly to the battery and is a common source of harness damage.

The voltage regulator should have 3 wires (WG, WL, WR)

Wiring diagram
 
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That's not an original ignition switch, and those aren't all the original wires to the switch. Would originally be BW (Black with white stripe) to starter, BY to ignition and BR from ammeter (not voltage regulator). The ammeter wire is essentially an unfused heavy gauge wire connected directly to the battery and is a common source of harness damage.

The voltage regulator should have 3 wires (WG, WL, WR)

Wiring diagram

Thanks for the reply, although not helpful at the moment.

The above parts not being original are very well known to me. Obviously a 60 year old truck will often have non-original parts and wiring.

Im trying to find information that would be helpful on getting this reconnected.

Robert
 

1MAC

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Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Once the wiring has been replaced with different colors of wire, it’s not really possible to diagnose problems from a picture.
Again, I don’t think you should have a wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition. Power goes from the battery via fusible link to the ammeter then the fuse block. The two binding posts on the ammeter are uninsulated and offer an easy opportunity for a short. That’s what melts a lot of harnesses.
If you don’t own a multimeter, it’s time to buy one and start figuring out where the wires go. The website I posted a link to has all the wiring diagrams and you can even buy the correct colors and gauges of wire to fix your harness.
 
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Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Once the wiring has been replaced with different colors of wire, it’s not really possible to diagnose problems from a picture.
Again, I don’t think you should have a wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition. Power goes from the battery via fusible link to the ammeter then the fuse block. The two binding posts on the ammeter are uninsulated and offer an easy opportunity for a short. That’s what melts a lot of harnesses.
If you don’t own a multimeter, it’s time to buy one and start figuring out where the wires go. The website I posted a link to has all the wiring diagrams and you can even buy the correct colors and gauges of wire to fix your harness.
I think I've realized why there is such a difference in wiring. Mine had the original generator regulator and generator when I bought it many years ago. I believe the generator regulator had 5 wires. I traced one of the wires to the plastic plug assembly and it has no connection going out the other plug.
 
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Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Once the wiring has been replaced with different colors of wire, it’s not really possible to diagnose problems from a picture.
Again, I don’t think you should have a wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition. Power goes from the battery via fusible link to the ammeter then the fuse block. The two binding posts on the ammeter are uninsulated and offer an easy opportunity for a short. That’s what melts a lot of harnesses.
If you don’t own a multimeter, it’s time to buy one and start figuring out where the wires go. The website I posted a link to has all the wiring diagrams and you can even buy the correct colors and gauges of wire to fix your harness.
Btw, I didn't see a web link
 

ToyotaMatt

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In the process of replacing burned wires from a meltdown, I inadvertently forgot to take notes on the wire going from the "IG" connection on the voltage regulator to the ignition switch. Unfortunately electrical diagrams I've seen don't show that connection path. I'm pretty sure it was connected to the "B" connection on my ignition switch below. That black wire in the photo on the "B" connection was the main wire that melted. The wire that goes to the voltage regulator suffered collateral damage and was piggy backed with another wire on the switch. Does that sound right?

View attachment 3007373
Pretty lame response from a mudder trying to help?? Your on your own with your obviously easy wiring issue🤣


ok folks :

stand by for a close encounter of the ToyotaMatt-TEq kind ...........


and : FYI that's a OEM Genuine Parts NLA / Disc. 84450-60010 in every way , just ask @whitey45 he will confirm this 100% SOLID !



seeing is believing ........... :D





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To be fair, the diagram posted is not that unhelpful. It just needs to be read and some effort is needed by the OP. According to the diagram, the IGN wire goes to the coil.
ok folks :

stand by for a close encounter of the ToyotaMatt-TEq kind ...........


and : FYI that's a OEM Genuine Parts NLA / Disc. 84450-60010 in every way , just ask @whitey45 he will confirm this 100% SOLID !


seeing is believing ........... :D





View attachment 3008358View attachment 3008359View attachment 3008360View attachment 3008361View attachment 3008362View attachment 3008363View attachment 3008364View attachment 3008365View attachment 3008366View attachment 3008367
To be fair, this is a much later switch than the one applicable a '62 FJ40 with a generator and this posted style can still be ordered from Toyota now without hassle and not too expensive. I have a few lying around I bought hoping to get lucky on key numbers.
 
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To be fair, the diagram posted is not that unhelpful. It just needs to be read and some effort is needed by the OP. According to the diagram, the IGN wire goes to the coil.

To be fair, this is a much later switch than the one applicable a '62 FJ40 with a generator and this posted style can still be ordered from Toyota now without hassle and not too expensive. I have a few lying around I bought hoping to get lucky on key numbers.
I recall replacing that years ago. I can't remember why though. I was digging through my parts and found the original switch. I don't think there was anything wrong with it electrically. The key was a bit loose. Are these repairable?

20220514_125711.jpg


20220514_125652.jpg
 

ToyotaMatt

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I recall replacing that years ago. I can't remember why though. I was digging through my parts and found the original switch. I don't think there was anything wrong with it electrically. The key was a bit loose. Are these repairable?

View attachment 3008772

View attachment 3008773
See the brown text in my original post that says “Wiring diagram”? If you click on that, it will take you to a picture of part of the wiring schematic for a 1962 FJ40.
I’ll post another link to Mark’s site that has a bunch more diagrams:

CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE PIKTURES



do you simply need a verbal text outline of each wire color code tracer stripe and what LUG it is assigned to on a early 4 lug 84450-60010 ?



that's Eazy Peezy .............. :)


the round switch above with the 3 outer lugs and the single center LUG is NOT a oem toyota key switch to be clear ,


it looks close though m but that's a simple pep-boys or old western auto varity


- your color coded tracer stripe assignments for a 62 fj40 are as follows :


- BLACK w / Yellow Tracer Stripe are the IG lug ,

- the BLACK w / white tracer stripe is your ST lug


- the Black w/ RED tracer stripe is your AM LUG ......................................

B+ HOT from your battery / Later it was changed to White / Blue tracer , such as in my PIG Tails i hand assemble above ,


- Blue w/ RED tracer or L / BL is your ACC LUG , a 62 did NOT have a ACC circuit that im aware of ?


- Below is a 1962 EWD ............

- to confirm and verify my above stated oem fsm facts and also comparison to what u have too ,

-
 
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I recall replacing that years ago. I can't remember why though. I was digging through my parts and found the original switch. I don't think there was anything wrong with it electrically. The key was a bit loose. Are these repairable?

View attachment 3008772

View attachment 3008773
That seems to be a generic Cole Hersee ignition switch, so no use to repair it (usually it's the brass key that gets worn).

This is what the OE switch for a very early J4 looks like from the back together with its wiring -

IgnSw.jpg
 

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