1953 Dodge M37 wheeler conversion (1 Viewer)

[workingdog]

I'll see if I can move it up. I might have interference problem with the link hitting the frame. At the very least, I can notch the frame and weld the tube in. anyway, I think I can make it work.

the other alternative would be to change the upper links towers on the axle so the angle isn't fixed. But ... that is a hard problem, particularly getting a new tower on top of the diff. Maybe I can just ... bend the brackets that go on the towers???

 

[aztoyman]

Are there any 4 link builds out there of a similar truck you can get ideas from?

I bought a 4 link designed for my truck and still ended up cutting off the frame behind the cab. I narrowed it to get everything to fit, have good shock angles and have the tires clear shock springs and the frame at full stuff, droop and flex. I did a LOT of tack welds and cut a LOT of tack welds. I didn't think I was ever going to get things to fit. I got it all to fit finally but I can't say how it works yet as I'm a long way off from finishing my build.

Good luck, I hope you get it all dialed in.

 

[workingdog]

The only thing I'm aware is the FJ45 that fabrats did - it's the only full hydro, lower links triangulated rig I know of. but ... you never get a really good look at it, and of course it's just different enough that nothing is the same.

 

[workingdog]

While waiting for parts so I can put the drivetrain together and double check everything before I finalize it, I decided to dive into the hanging pedal conversion - as I know it's going to be a PITA.

here's the thing every uses.

I can tell already it's going to take a lot of massaging to get it to work.

Here it is in the cab all the up and about 4" down from up. In the first, you can see where I marked where the steering column passes through the firewall. In the second, that hole will be about 4" higher. Looks like I'm going to have to but the bottom of the body off, maybe the right side where it's hitting the edge of the hump, and modify the brake pedal some.

Here it is in the lower position with the pedals out where they were normally rest. It's very hard to get a feel for where they need to be right now.

Also just ordered the drive-by-wire pedal that works with the terminator. It makes all kinds of assumptions about where the firewall is. It should be interesting to mount. I'm committed to getting the M37's pedal attached to it somehow.

 

[workingdog]

So, the PSC full hydro kit arrived. Boy, is it nice. And now I see why the Barnes full hydro mount I have is so big. if you want to, you can use all 4 mounting brackets and center the ram in the mount, which requires a lot of space. Or you can only use 3 mounts and offset the ram so it's tucked back - which is what I think I'm going to do, and then I'll just trim the ram back to eliminate dead space.

centered - still a lot of empty space, but the piston is fullyprotected.

Offset, 3 mounts,

Offset 4 mounts

 

[workingdog]

EDIT: Okay, I'm giving up on this POS. No idea what they had in mind. I found another bracket that seems much better. I had considered using an fj40 bracket, but the one I found seems easier. Stay tuned.

Okay, more on pedals. Now that I've got it in place, I'm confused (which is pretty typical for me).

First, you can see in the picture where I marked with silver sharpie where the steering column wants to go. The brake pedal is bent to drop to the left of the column, but you can see it's more to the right. And you can also see that you really can't move the entire assembly to the left because the clutch pedal is pretty much all the way over and the clutch master will just clear the hood strut mount on the firewall where it is now. Also, I know this was built for a specific master, but I'm going to use an electric booster/master for the brakes, which has a typical modern rod on it. Which means the brake pedal hinge point needs to move out at least 2" to get me to the 4+ inches the rod needs from the firewall to the attachment point. Also, the hole is offset because the bracket assumes the use of this odd thing that swings off the pedal, rather than just a regular fork.

So, I'm at a loss as to what to do here. Unbend the brake pedal so it goes straight down to the right of the column and very close to the accelerator pedal? Take 1" out of the middle of the entire bracket assembly, moving the brake pedal closer to the clutch and then bend the brake pedal about 1" more to the left so it can fall on the left side of the pedal and be really close to the clutch pedal?

And yes, the hole in the firewall for the column is to the right of center. And yes, I could land the column in between the dash and the firewall and use a u-joint to run a second shaft through the firewall where it's easy. I'm only going to an orbital on the other side of the firewall, so I'm pretty flexible about where that shaft ends up.

And once I figure that out, extend the hinge points for both pedals out another 3 to 4"? I can't just do one, it will make the pedals sit funny relative to each other.

 

[workingdog]

Got the part that was missing for the transmission, got the hydraulic throw-out bearing installed and the transmission onto the bell housing, and 2/3rds of the drivetrain hanging in the frame.

This is where my inexperience really bites me. There are all kinds of things to consider when setting the engine I'm not super familiar with. However, with the headers on, there's no moving it side to side, so one complication gone. I've got it set pretty much as low as I think it can go. It will only move up from where it is.

The transmission wasn't here the last 2 weeks (waiting at the trans shop for that part) and I thought I knew how the mount worked, but when I slung it in today, I realized I had almost everything wrong about the width of the mount and the distance from the mounting point to the back back of the trans where the transfer case mates. So, that was almost a 'f**k me' moment. But, it all worked out.

One interesting thing is that in an fj40, which is what I'm used to, the transmission mount is always below the frame rails a bit. and I kind of assumed that was true with the M37 too. But ... with the motor setting as low as it can with 5 degrees slope back, the trans mount is still 3" above the bottom of the frame. The good thing about this, is that it puts the trans mount above the links enough that they don't interfere with each other - which is a plus. And the links don't have to move from where I had them.

however, apparently I lost the studs required to bolt the Atlas to the transmission while waiting to get to this point. So, I can't attach the transfer case today. Which means I can't move the cab back into position to check interference - which I really wanted to so.

So, I'll use the plasma table to cut some quick and dirty motor mounts. I wish I had some Advance Adapters mounts, they'd be perfect for where it's sitting. But I'll make what I have work and get the motor enough tacked in that I can free the gantry up.

The crossmember in the image below is about the bottom of the radiator. I'm curious if people think pan is hanging too low and needs to go up.

 

[peesalot]

looking at all of it seems you sorted it pretty spot on.

 

[workingdog]

Yes, it all seems to have worked out okay. I'm kind of shocked. Even the transfer case fit with only a little trimming, and because the transfer case sits so high in the frame, I can clock it down a bit and it doesn't get in the way.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, this was a lot of fricken work, but the front links are done, the transmission/lower link cross member is mostly built, the upper link brackets are mounted (per @peesalot). I'm ready to sling the motor in one more time.

"This is the underside of the transmission/lower link cross member. There will be plate covering this when it's done. But, for now, with the one stiffener it's stiff enough.

Sleeves for the crossmember

Tacked together

Upper link ready to mount

I have a real love hate relationship with this thing

 

[cruisermatt]

nice job on the sleeved link mount bolt. Turn the heat up on that welder.

I'll be there in August if you want I can burn everything in

 

[workingdog]

Ya, I'm running too light - scared I'm going to have to cut it all out. I'm sure I'll need help in August. but I'm hoping to have the motor running - might not be able to turn or stop.

 

[workingdog]

Okay. Major milestones reached today. The drivetrain is in, it's just tacked, but it's in. And I was able to cycle the suspension front and rear (thank for for a lift). Pictures at full stuff and full droop and video of cycling the front one direction. Could not operate the lift and hold the camera for anymore.

Upper link barely clears frame at full stuff - but it does.

Looking under the front cross member at differential /oil pan clearance.

Looking down at driveline at full droop. It clears the cross member, but I might do some trimming just to make sure

Looking down the driveline.

Atlas IV is on. 50 degree clock to accommodate the cab.
It always amazed me that the Atlas II just hangs off the back of the trans and AA doesn't recommend any support for the rear.
And here's an Atlas 4, which is an Atlas II bolted on to a gear reduction box, even worse!

 

[workingdog]

Evolution of the bracket for mounting my ORIs to the front axle. Thank for got plasma table.

 

[workingdog]

Okay - ORI's are tacked in, in the front. Yea!
Home made bracket on top and bottom - thank god for the plasma table.
And, cycled the front suspension and discovered that with the front axle now attached (and the rear axle not attached), the frame will just tip over. Oops!

 

[peesalot]

Been wanting to switch to links & ORI's for awhile. Watched an old guy in a brand new JK on 40's just smooth walk up soup bowl and I became a firm believer in the ORI.

 

[workingdog]

Well, since they replace both the bump stop and limit strap - it was a no-brainer for me. I might convert the EV over to them just to be able to rip all that s*** out

Got the ORI's installed in the rear. Use hoops. they said. it will be easy they said. I'm done after re-cutting each of these mouths a hundred times.

Here it is at full droop. Going to have big problems with the bed. the ORI, as far out as I could get it, will will be a couple inches too far in and a couple of inches too tall for the wheel well in the bed. Easy solution, or conceptually simple, but not easy, is to modify/build the wheel wells so the are taller and 3" wide/further in. but that's a long way off

 

[Firemedic831]

looking good

 

[workingdog]

Okay, I can't move any of the big stuff forward, so I started with some of the fiddly bits with an eye towards getting it to start as soon as possible. Fuel pump and 1 of 2 filters ready to go in, lots of PTFE AN ends put on, some an -3 brake hose put on, and the pedals arrived and are on the bracket and the bracket is installed. I think this is the best compromise of locations - the column passes similarly to an fj40 and if I want to later on I can bend the pedals as required or lengthen the pedal arms to get them a little lower. But it looks pretty close.. Hole is drilled for the brake master and it sets in place fairly nicely.

I had to pull the accelerator pedal out and while I was out, I was talking to my son about how the pedal worked originally (floor mounted) and we figure out the we could mount the drive-by-wire pedal under the floor of the cab, next to the frame rail, and have the pedal stick up through the floor and achieve pretty much the same effect. So, we're going to attempt it.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, so lots of random stuff

The floor mounted accelerator pedal is in!!! It fits right between the frame rail and the front drive line.

Gas tank in position with original straps. Clearly, this S-10 tank is taller and the straps will require some modication.

For the 3rd time I've moved the fuel stuff to get it all to fit. Should work now.

It's not easy to see in this picture, but somehow, after checking and double checking, the back of the drivetrain ended up 2" off center. So, that is now fixed. Sure helped the clearance with the underside of the cab a lot.