$1700 to change power steering pump and fix oil pan leaks.....does that sound about right? (1 Viewer)

[Kernal]

George got it.

That pipe nipple can get clogged with gear oil and grease. You can remove (unscrew) the pipe assembly and clean it out before putting the hose back on.

But also, notice how the pipe nipple is clean, seems like either the hose was recently pulled off or someone wiped it off, but then why wipe off just that nipple and not put the hose back on??

Have you checked the gear oil level in your front diff recently?

Either way as others have said, put that hose back on the nipple for now but for long term many people have bypassed the poorly functioning factory axle breather (on the other end of that rubber hose) and ran a hose up to the engine compartment with a small filter on the end.

Agree, all that goo is good rust proofing, but then it does make a mess.

 

[Brindleboxer]

George got it.

That pipe nipple can get clogged with gear oil and grease. You can remove (unscrew) the pipe assembly and clean it out before putting the hose back on.

But also, notice how the pipe nipple is clean, seems like either the hose was recently pulled off or someone wiped it off, but then why wipe off just that nipple and not put the hose back on??

Have you checked the gear oil level in your front diff recently?

Either way as others have said, put that hose back on the nipple for now but for long term many people have bypassed the poorly functioning factory axle breather (on the other end of that rubber hose) and ran a hose up to the engine compartment with a small filter on the end.

Agree, all that goo is good rust proofing, but then it does make a mess.

I would bet the hose popped off when lifting on the lift. It looks as though it is a post lift (lifting from frame not tires) and with the tell tale powder blue springs I believe he has a lift. When installing the lift where the breathers extended? They may reach when on the ground (with weight of vehicle) but when the suspension flexes they could be to short for the current setup. Just my .02. @Francis K

 

[oilbrnr]

^ This. You can tell that is probably the OEM breather hose. Same will probably apply to the rear as well…

 

[Francis K]

You guys might be right, it's only a 1.75" lift but with as clean as it is I would assume it had just popped off, or they popped it off to check it...

I will find out soon.

Here is my list of questions/checks so far:


-Did the breather hose pop off because it was hoisted

-Check Front diff gear oil

-Is the power steering actually leaking or is it leftover fluid from my old half banana job of not tightening the steering adjustment screw enough a couple months ago

-Are we resealing with Toyota FIPG

-Are we replacing the high and low power steering hoses



Anything else fellas?? Thank you!

 

[bhsdriller]

Is the power steering pump being replaced or rebuilt.

 

[cruiserdan]

I've pulled the oil pans before with the engine in the truck. I wouldn't do it for someone for only 1,700 bucks.

 

[Brindleboxer]

You guys might be right, it's only a 1.75" lift but with as clean as it is I would assume it had just popped off, or they popped it off to check it...

I will find out soon.

Here is my list of questions/checks so far:


-Did the breather hose pop off because it was hoisted

-Check Front diff gear oil

-Is the power steering actually leaking or is it leftover fluid from my old half banana job of not tightening the steering adjustment screw enough a couple months ago

-Are we resealing with Toyota FIPG

-Are we replacing the high and low power steering hoses



Anything else fellas?? Thank you!

While it is up, check your brake lines as well to ensure they are not at max.

 

[Kernal]

Be sure to clean off the lower front of the engine down around the large crank pulley (timing chain cover area) then recheck for where the leak appear. That's where the oil pump cover is located and is a common cause of engine oil leaks up front.

 

[Francis K]

Is the power steering pump being replaced or rebuilt.

At the $1700 it was with a remanufactured unit

 

[Francis K]

Alright fellas, again sincerely appreciate everyone's help with this! Picked her up yesterday, he had 5 numbers waiting for me that guys left asking if I wanted to sell, that's a new record my previous one was 3......hard to find a clean 80 in Michigan.

They said they fully confirmed it is actually leaking from the pan and pump but I washed her off yesterday so we shall confirm.

The $1700 included the high and low hoses, a remanufactured PS pump and FIPG. I am going to provide my own parts as I want to use OEM so it will be that minus parts for the job.



Here is what I got:

PS Pump: 44320-60182

O Ring: 90301-73004

Low and high hoses (are there part numbers for these?) (Does the OEM PS pump come with any of the hoses?)

103 FIPG: 00295-00103


Anything I'm missing here?



The PS pump for sure I'm going to knock it out but even the shop themselves told me I don't necessarily need to to do the pan as long as I was okay with the oil leak which is slight. I park her in the garage and the past 6 months I only have a few drops on the garage floor. Others here also echoed that sentiment.....what do you guys think? I've been super obsessive about getting everything perfect on the truck and I'm not sure if this job needs to be done or if it's just me doing that again.


One thing I will say, I had them change all the hoses, also clean the intake and exhaust manifold. They said it wasn't bad but wow is there is a huge difference, it ran smooth before but now it's like butter.....when it's idling you can't even tell it's running anymore. Very happy with that.....

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Alright fellas, again sincerely appreciate everyone's help with this! Picked her up yesterday, he had 5 numbers waiting for me that guys left asking if I wanted to sell, that's a new record my previous one was 3......hard to find a clean 80 in Michigan.

They said they fully confirmed it is actually leaking from the pan and pump but I washed her off yesterday so we shall confirm.

The $1700 included the high and low hoses, a remanufactured PS pump and FIPG. I am going to provide my own parts as I want to use OEM so it will be that minus parts for the job.



Here is what I got:

PS Pump: 44320-60182

O Ring: 90301-73004

Low and high hoses (are there part numbers for these?) (Does the OEM PS pump come with any of the hoses?)

103 FIPG: 00295-00103


Anything I'm missing here?



The PS pump for sure I'm going to knock it out but even the shop themselves told me I don't necessarily need to to do the pan as long as I was okay with the oil leak which is slight. I park her in the garage and the past 6 months I only have a few drops on the garage floor. Others here also echoed that sentiment.....what do you guys think? I've been super obsessive about getting everything perfect on the truck and I'm not sure if this job needs to be done or if it's just me doing that again.


One thing I will say, I had them change all the hoses, also clean the intake and exhaust manifold. They said it wasn't bad but wow is there is a huge difference, it ran smooth before but now it's like butter.....when it's idling you can't even tell it's running anymore. Very happy with that.....

No, the pump does not come with any hoses. Aftermarket can be OK for these. It's $300+ for the OEM high pressure hose. For sure, get this done.

Mine has a similar oil leak that I don't plan to address. If $1700 is agreeable for you, my suggestion is to do it and keep your garage floor clean.

 

[desmocruiser]

I would agree address the front end first after you find out the true cause. The quote seems fair, but there may be some other work/parts you want to consider.

Also, are you going to address the front crank seal, distributor O Ring, hoses, belts/ tensioner, or other front engine parts at this time? Maybe even a new PS pump and even alternator as preventative maintenance (I know that seems overboard but many people go all in)?

Most of those are pretty accessible or removed during this repair and you can usually work a deal with a reputable/knowledgeable shop to complete these for little additional cost.

I would also ask if the shop has completed an oil pump gasket repair in the past and aware of the precarious nature of the oil pump screws and the occasional challenge of removing the crank bolt on an 80 Series? There have been some horror stories created during this repair if not approached correctly especially by an unfamiliar shop. I would read a few threads on the repair, definitely recommend new Toyota Oil Pump screws or maybe better the Wits End Allen head kit to make it easier if there is ever a next time or a revisit.

If the 80 is a keeper, do it once the right way with the right parts and you will happy you did down the road!