150amp ALTERNATOR

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What would I have to do to install a 150amp alternator? Since I work at a diesel shop I have plenty of heavy duty parts.... Would it just be upgrading the wires or is it just not possible? These trucks run off 12v so I think it would just be a matter of thicker wire.

ANY THOUGHTS OR INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED
 
What would I have to do to install a 150amp alternator? Since I work at a diesel shop I have plenty of heavy duty parts.... Would it just be upgrading the wires or is it just not possible? These trucks run off 12v so I think it would just be a matter of thicker wire.

ANY THOUGHTS OR INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED


You should give me a 5.9 cummins with a short tranny. That is all
 
Demon061 said:
You should give me a 5.9 cummins with a short tranny. That is all

All my engines are from semi-trucks..... They literally weigh as much as a cruiser. So I don't have anything that small..... Sorry
 
ammeter cannot take this high amperage without frying up - you could switch to a voltage indicator
 
Check the tech links, I think most recommend bypassing the ammeter and useing a volt meter. If you keep the ammeter, you must use a larger wire and put an external shunt on the ammeter.

IH8MUD.com - Technical



GL!
 
So I can just basically do away with the ammeter and put a voltage gauge in with thicker wire right?
 
I guess my real concern is.... Am I going to be pumping too much voltage for my ignition system? Will I damage anything like coil, dizzy, or even my accessories.... Fan motor wipers stuff like that?
 
I'm running a 200-amp alternator in my 40. I put on new heavier battery cables, starter cable, and engine and alternator ground cables, plus I ran a heavy-gauge positive cable straight from the alternator to the battery. I had already replaced my ammeter with a voltmeter before I put the new alternator in. Love this set-up; I can run every accessory at once and never have my lights dim at idle.

You won't be "pumping" any more voltage than stock, as long as you use a 12-volt alternator. The beauty of an alternator is, the system only takes as much current (amperage) as it needs, so nothing is overcharged (like in the old days with generators).

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The big alternator will put out the same voltage as the original but provide much more current if and when its needed. The only thing that can be harmed are wires or gauges that aren't up to the task. Bypass the ammeter and also run a BIG wire from the alternator output straight to the battery. I chose to use a circuit breaker on that wire but you can also use a fuse or fusable link, at the battery end. I also replaced my ammeter with a volt meter.

Opinions on the required size for that additional wire vary greatly, from #10 wire..
• Sensible Automotive Wiring

To #3 ...
http://www.gadgetjq.com/wiring_size_guide.htm

I went with #6 myself and I think it will be fine. The breaker will trip before the wire cooks.

B.
 
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1911 said:
You won't be "pumping" any more voltage than stock, as long as you use a 12-volt alternator. The beauty of an alternator is, the system only take as much current (amperage) as it needs, so nothing is overcharged (like in the old days with generators).

Sounds good.... That's what I was wanting to know. I thought alternators worked that way but was getting mixed answers from others. Ive got plenty of battery cable from trucks I've junked so I should be covered on that part.

Thanks for all the advice hopefully by the end if the month I should be running that setup.
 
Good tech....thanks. May do this in the future :D
 
After reading sensible wiring the stock alternator won't be enough if you add only one accessory. Thanks for that write up.
 
Glad to help.
... and just another little electrical FYI, you guys can pic up a CS144 (140 amp) alternator from a 90's GM for pretty cheap. I got mine at the junk yard from a 90 something Caddy for 25 or 30 bucks. Only problem was I had to change the serpantine pulley to a V-belt type, which was a pain. The CS130 alts use a V-pulley though. Here is more alternator info. B.
Alternator Tech


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Another option. I got this through my friendly local auto electric shop. Maybe 10 years ago...Drops in with only minor tweaking of the stock bracket. I forget exactly if it's 140 or 150 amps. Can't read the label without unmounting it.
I like the matching voltage regulator too, you can adjust the high output with a screwdriver. I keep mine on the low side for the Optima batteries...
I did let the smoke out of my first Hehr voltage regulator, it was 3 years old and they sent me a replacement, free. No questions asked. Has been rock-solid otherwise.
No affiliation other than a satisfied customer.
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Is the alternator made by Hehr? The one I was going to use is CRAZY BIG and I'll have to make some pretty massive brackets. It's from a semi truck so big truck means big parts. I think it would be too big for the space I have. So I need to find one that puts out big numbers but compact size. If not I'll just make it work. Seems like the entire build has gone that way so far.
 
Is the alternator made by Hehr?


Well, the tag on the alt says "Hehr"...have not seen "made in china" on it.
Approx the same size as every other (car) alt.
 
Ok.... So this is the route I need to go. I don't know if you have ever seen one off a big rig but they are almost 3x the size of a normal car. Which means 5x the size of a cruiser alt..... LOL

It looks like it bolts to stock location, was there any more mods? Mine is on the drivers side as it is a 1F motor. So they should be about the same.
 
was there any more mods?


For the Pig, i had to drill 4 holes in the firewall for the reg to mount. Had to bend the alt mount bracket a little bit. From what I recall of the late F engine, mounting should not be a problem.
 
Thanks.... I'm trying to work out some brake line issues so as soon as I wrap that up I'll look up Hehr and get some new parts.

You've been a real help and giving me some really good ideas and plans.
 
For the Pig, i had to drill 4 holes in the firewall for the reg to mount. Had to bend the alt mount bracket a little bit. From what I recall of the late F engine, mounting should not be a problem.

My alt was a straight bolt-on. Internally regulated. I forget how I wired it though...

80's Camaro, 100-150 amps.
 

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