Nice work, moving along at a pace.
14BT Rebuild
- Thread starter crave reFleXion
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- #22
Would have been further along, but got held up with the honing machine all day Friday. All good though.
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- #23
Day Six (ish)
I'm back at work this week, so unfortunately I'm not able to document as many steps. Anyway, the shop has finished inserting the liners, which have also been bored and honed to the piston size. The pistons and rings have been installed and I am told the clearance was 25 thou. Finally, the deck has been surfaced... I'll be heading into the shop on Saturday to do a bit of assembly and I should have a bit of an update then. Also, we've been waiting for a part for the injector pump that arrived today and will hopefully get that aspect moving along. At this stage I am hoping to be reinstalling the engine the following weekend (fingers crossed).
Cheers
I'm back at work this week, so unfortunately I'm not able to document as many steps. Anyway, the shop has finished inserting the liners, which have also been bored and honed to the piston size. The pistons and rings have been installed and I am told the clearance was 25 thou. Finally, the deck has been surfaced... I'll be heading into the shop on Saturday to do a bit of assembly and I should have a bit of an update then. Also, we've been waiting for a part for the injector pump that arrived today and will hopefully get that aspect moving along. At this stage I am hoping to be reinstalling the engine the following weekend (fingers crossed).
Cheers
Looking good
Your engine probally comes out of a truck ( Dyna or the like) where the radiator top sits lower than the waterpump, hense that horrible tower with the rad cap on it. Easy and cheap to change to a normal one IF your radiator now sits higher than the engine.
Were your old pistons standard?? If so, was it necessary to replace the liners? I would have guessed enough meat for at least one rebore??? But then I am a 5volt engineer not a mechanic.
George.
Your engine probally comes out of a truck ( Dyna or the like) where the radiator top sits lower than the waterpump, hense that horrible tower with the rad cap on it. Easy and cheap to change to a normal one IF your radiator now sits higher than the engine.
Were your old pistons standard?? If so, was it necessary to replace the liners? I would have guessed enough meat for at least one rebore??? But then I am a 5volt engineer not a mechanic.
George.
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- #25
G'day George
I've thought about changing the 'radiator tower', but I haven't been able to find a similar housing for the thermostat which has a return coolant line from the Turbo. Let me know if you know of one.
I went with dry liners and standard pistons because I had been lead to believe it had already been rebuilt (it hadn't). Also, if I rebuild again (Frank is my final car) I could potentially press out these dry sleeves and use another sleeve and same standard pistons again, which means no need to find oversize pistons/rings in the future (parts are already bloody difficult to come by with the 14BT), and potentially cheaper, more straightforward rebuild in the future considering resleeving would involve pressing the current liners out, new ones in and then bore and hone again.
I also had quite a lot of dramas with pushing coolant when I purchased him, and after doing the head and fixing some issues with pump timing (too far advanced), I still had some issues when under load, extended highway driving, and with slightly higher boost (if boost was increased to 15psi) with some coolant still being pushed and cooling system pressurizing. As a result, I had a sneaking suspicion there could be a crack in a liner when hot or under those conditions above. Hence, sleeving would ensure there is no crack no matter how minute and give me a bit of piece of mind. When I pulled the head we couldn't identify any leaks or passages that had opened up in the head gasket, so I'm still a bit undecided about the coolant issue.
Not sure if that all makes sense, but there you go. ☺
I've thought about changing the 'radiator tower', but I haven't been able to find a similar housing for the thermostat which has a return coolant line from the Turbo. Let me know if you know of one.
I went with dry liners and standard pistons because I had been lead to believe it had already been rebuilt (it hadn't). Also, if I rebuild again (Frank is my final car) I could potentially press out these dry sleeves and use another sleeve and same standard pistons again, which means no need to find oversize pistons/rings in the future (parts are already bloody difficult to come by with the 14BT), and potentially cheaper, more straightforward rebuild in the future considering resleeving would involve pressing the current liners out, new ones in and then bore and hone again.
I also had quite a lot of dramas with pushing coolant when I purchased him, and after doing the head and fixing some issues with pump timing (too far advanced), I still had some issues when under load, extended highway driving, and with slightly higher boost (if boost was increased to 15psi) with some coolant still being pushed and cooling system pressurizing. As a result, I had a sneaking suspicion there could be a crack in a liner when hot or under those conditions above. Hence, sleeving would ensure there is no crack no matter how minute and give me a bit of piece of mind. When I pulled the head we couldn't identify any leaks or passages that had opened up in the head gasket, so I'm still a bit undecided about the coolant issue.
Not sure if that all makes sense, but there you go. ☺
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- #26
Day Seven
Only managed a couple of hours today, but got the block painted, oil cooler housing painted and reattached to the block and started reassembling the timing cover. Starting to look like a new one...
Cheers
Only managed a couple of hours today, but got the block painted, oil cooler housing painted and reattached to the block and started reassembling the timing cover. Starting to look like a new one...
Cheers
Is the fuel pump and injectors being rebuilt also?
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Very nice! Keep those pictures coming! 
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- #29
We're rebuilding the pump, but not the injectors as I rebuilt them about three months ago.
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- #30
Day Eight
I got a few hours in today and reassembled a bit more... Crankshaft and conrods in, Crankshaft oil seal retainer with a new seal, Crankshaft bearings, Thrust washers, Oil strainer, Camshaft, Injection pump drive gear, Thrust plate and Idler Gear, and got a bit of paint on the Cylinder Head Cover... Photos Below:
I got a few hours in today and reassembled a bit more... Crankshaft and conrods in, Crankshaft oil seal retainer with a new seal, Crankshaft bearings, Thrust washers, Oil strainer, Camshaft, Injection pump drive gear, Thrust plate and Idler Gear, and got a bit of paint on the Cylinder Head Cover... Photos Below:
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- #31
Some more photos...
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- #32
And a couple more...
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- #33
Last one...
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- #34
Day Nine
I didn't get a chance to do anything, but the mechanic got the rest of the timing cover assembled, pump back on and oil pan on.
I didn't get a chance to do anything, but the mechanic got the rest of the timing cover assembled, pump back on and oil pan on.
Any ideas on how much HP and torque they push out?
Is the sump extension a factory piece? I guess it was there for when it was in the Dyna
They share quite few design characteristics with the 1HZ 1HD T etc
Is the sump extension a factory piece? I guess it was there for when it was in the Dyna
They share quite few design characteristics with the 1HZ 1HD T etc
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- Thread starter
- #36
Hey Roscoe
Not entirely sure as there isn't a whole lot of info on the elusive 14BT out there. From what I gather surfing the interwebs and reading up a few things that I would predict (this is not substantiated and just my opinion) the maximum power would be in the vicinity of 100 kW (136 hp) at 3,400 rpm and maximum torque of 332 N⋅m (245 lbf⋅ft) at 3,400 rpm. The sump is definitely not factory, but I was fortunate enough to track down the mechanic who did some of the original work on Frank, and he sent a few pics of the sump modification. Some photos if you are interested:
Not entirely sure as there isn't a whole lot of info on the elusive 14BT out there. From what I gather surfing the interwebs and reading up a few things that I would predict (this is not substantiated and just my opinion) the maximum power would be in the vicinity of 100 kW (136 hp) at 3,400 rpm and maximum torque of 332 N⋅m (245 lbf⋅ft) at 3,400 rpm. The sump is definitely not factory, but I was fortunate enough to track down the mechanic who did some of the original work on Frank, and he sent a few pics of the sump modification. Some photos if you are interested:
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This is a 15b oil sump, looks a bit the same but it extends evenly on each side
Those power figures are up around those of a 1HZ. I read the 15 bt can get around the same as the 1HD T etc
Those power figures are up around those of a 1HZ. I read the 15 bt can get around the same as the 1HD T etc
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- #38
The original 14BT oil pan is almost identical to the 15b. You can just see one of the original wings above the extended pan at the bottom. It also had a wing on the other side, but due to the front drive shaft it had to be modified. I think power should be similar to a 1hz, but a bit more torque. I also think that there is more power to be had with more boost and fuel, which I am considering. I have already installed a FMI, so I might go to a green GTurbo in the future...
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- #39
Just checked the ME372sti Manual, which is the marinised intercooled version of the 14BT, and it lists 123kw (165hp) at 3,400.
You will certainly to be able to push it a bit harder.
