I think post #20 answers your question. Cheers
14” shocks & towers (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Justin metcalf
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- #22
Word. I may have to do some flex testing without shocks installed to see how much my shocks are holding me back in “real world” scenarios. I’ll look threw the shock & suspension tech again.The only time your axle will drop out fully is when you jump the rig completely off the ground. That’s why I said “ in real world, on trail scenarios.
I run Dobinson 3.5” taper coils with 1” spacer on to totaling almost 5” lift and what’s referred to as a 6” lift shock made by Ironman (a 12” shock). My Delta arms do allow more articulation than wider stock arms but still don’t max out the springs even in the worst rock crawling situations. The radius arms simply won’t allow it.
This is nothing new and has been studied and discussed in depth here.
Lots of reading here and more to be searched out:
Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more.
80 series coil & shock specs A few years back 80 series suspension was fairly easy to figure out & purchase since there was only a few of options to chose from. Recently there has been a few suppliers stepping up to play in the USA 80 series market offering more options. Now with a plethora of...forum.ih8mud.com
You mention "when you let the suspension droop", what was the situation for which you did that? If it's something that isn't likely to happen in real world conditions then maybe reconsider, but if you want to capitalize on as much capacity for travel and consider improving your link setup in the future then it might be worth while in the interim.
If you feel you may go to more or less lift at a later date in the plan, then I'd want to build with that in consideration, i.e. moving axle forwards, axle travel with larger tires etc.
If you feel you may go to more or less lift at a later date in the plan, then I'd want to build with that in consideration, i.e. moving axle forwards, axle travel with larger tires etc.
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- #24
I had the 80 on the lift. Unbolted the shock & measured, that is the measurement in witch the shock was 4” short. Granted, like you said, this condition would only occur when “jumping” the truck. Then I bolted the shock back on & flexed it in the washout behind my house. It found the limitations of the 10” shock quick in a real world situation. The reason I considered a 14” shock with a custom tower was because from the measurements I have looked at on 12” shocks, I’d be getting darn close to not having enough up travel without topping out the 12” shock. A 12” may be enough if placed perfectly. But I know for sure a 14” would give me a little lead way up & down so that I did not ever top, or bottom my shock out. Like I said. I’ll try out a 12. But it may require a shock tower mod to get it in the sweet spot. I just don’t know yet. I am not trying to discredit anyone’s proven formulas. I’m just trying to maximize my combination given my springs & radius arms.
So, I'm on board with you cutting/pasting stuff in to run a 14" shock, but I suppose we should examine if or not you'll need it. Thats your risk in it.
I'm also not really interested in reading 27 pages in a link to find or interpret what someone else thinks might be the official standard on the matter for them.
Consider that your shocks will limit "down travel" to some degree, but honestly this is possibly protecting your U-joints from binding up and damaging something , brake lines and breather line when you have the truck on the lift . Limiting travel is also important!
I don't see much of a downside to going with a 14" travel shock with exception to the u-joint and brake line scenarios, and the fact that your cutting off factory brackets, and the cost and materials to modify. It probably does encourage a 3 link setup later, or at least you can "tune" your compressed position with a 12" shock if you decide to go that route. You may end up with a CV driveshaft as part of this.
And if you do put in 14" shocks and never use the full range of travel, I suppose at least you'll know what the hang ups are, hopefully without negative reprucussions.
I'm also not really interested in reading 27 pages in a link to find or interpret what someone else thinks might be the official standard on the matter for them.
Consider that your shocks will limit "down travel" to some degree, but honestly this is possibly protecting your U-joints from binding up and damaging something , brake lines and breather line when you have the truck on the lift . Limiting travel is also important!
I don't see much of a downside to going with a 14" travel shock with exception to the u-joint and brake line scenarios, and the fact that your cutting off factory brackets, and the cost and materials to modify. It probably does encourage a 3 link setup later, or at least you can "tune" your compressed position with a 12" shock if you decide to go that route. You may end up with a CV driveshaft as part of this.
And if you do put in 14" shocks and never use the full range of travel, I suppose at least you'll know what the hang ups are, hopefully without negative reprucussions.
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- #26
Unbolted my shocks & tied them out of the way.
The Fox 12” shock I ordered looks like it will work as long as I limit suspension travel with a limit strap. The strap will not limit articulation, just front droop witch needs limited anyway. Driveline binding does not seem to be a problem even at full droop. Brake lines are at the end of there ropes.
Fox 12” shock extended length 30.3”
Actual length flexed 28.25”
Fox shock compressed length 18.2”
Actual length stuffed 20.5”
Actual length full droop 30” splitting difference between both sides.
So a 12” shock & a proper limit strap will do the trick with the factory shock tower.
The Fox 12” shock I ordered looks like it will work as long as I limit suspension travel with a limit strap. The strap will not limit articulation, just front droop witch needs limited anyway. Driveline binding does not seem to be a problem even at full droop. Brake lines are at the end of there ropes.
Fox 12” shock extended length 30.3”
Actual length flexed 28.25”
Fox shock compressed length 18.2”
Actual length stuffed 20.5”
Actual length full droop 30” splitting difference between both sides.
So a 12” shock & a proper limit strap will do the trick with the factory shock tower.
Something else to consider is that even though our Delta arms are thinner and will allow the arm to twist more degrees, we still run the same rubber bushings which don’t like that. My bushings have two years on them and are showing signs of degradation already due to the rock crawling. After market bushings live even shorter lives.
12” shocks and for sure 14” shocks are in 3 link territory.
12” shocks and for sure 14” shocks are in 3 link territory.
Would there be any negative to running a 12" shock in this situation?
The OP is running 2.5" Dobinson VT's so we will assume 3" of lift since Dobinson springs are famous for rendering more lift than advertised on average weight 80's. This would leave approximately 7"-8" of shock for down travel and 4"-5" for up travel which is fine but with what appears to be 315's, the shock, not the tire, will probably be what determines bump stop placement so as not to damage the shock on hard compression cycles. With a 1" spacer on top of my older style 3.5" Dobinson tapered variable rate coils I get 4.75" of lift. My 6" lift Iron Man FCP shocks are split at 5" for down travel and 7" for up travel. This has me leaning more toward the OP ending up at 4" up and 8" down travel with a 12' shock; more down than radius arms can use. True, altering the shock towers will allow a 14" shock to be balanced or set to allow the builders desired up and down travel numbers but never in 9 years of 80 ownership and reading on Mud do I remember anyone putting a 14" shock on an 80 that still runs leading (radius) arms, and the reason for that is because it would gain nothing. There are many videos on youtube of 80's on radius arms doing amazing things off road from way back when there were few suspension options on the market and "long" shocks were the OME L's which are not even 12".
Yeah, I remember the good old days. A 4" ome lift, 35's with caster bushings and no panhard correction was good enough for everyone to drive safley on the highway and still extremely capable.
Now everyone wants delta arms and panhard brackets, etc etc
Half the reason I bought my first 80 was for the simple fact I could throw a $900.00 ome lift kit on the rig and start running 35's.
Now everyone wants delta arms and panhard brackets, etc etc
Half the reason I bought my first 80 was for the simple fact I could throw a $900.00 ome lift kit on the rig and start running 35's.
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- #32
I’ve got a few irons in the fire. I’m afraid that this Delta/Dobinsons/Fox 12” set up will have to do the trick & I’ll just have to keep an eye on bushing wear. I recently sold my “rock truck” so this is me making my family adventure truck, rock capable, within reason. It will be hands & feet better than the GX470 I had that was always wheels up!
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- #33
But, that being said. I imagine after either a turbo kit or LS swap I’ll eventually get to the point where it’s going to need links…. I’m hoping someday I’ll get over the urge to cut everything I own into a million pieces & “build” it.
That Chevy crew cab is sweet. I had a 78 Ramcharger for 15 years in between LandCruisers. It was a DD that evolved into a trailer queen. I decided to tone it down and get a more versatile vehicle so came the first 80 in early 2014. I’m on my third 80 now. Rolled the second one and have built this third one way beyond what I ever intended and I’m well into Grandpa years. I think that erge to cut and modify is in a persons blood and never goes away. So good luck keeping you 80 stockish. Triple lockers, 4-5” of lift on “good” springs, armor and 37’s will do amazing things off road even on radius arms and then cruise home like nothing ever happened.
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- #35
I guess this thread ended up being about properly sizing shocks, not 14” shocks & shock towers.🤣 Got one yesterday, should have its mate today. If my calculations are correct these will be the ticket for my application.
