13B-T loosing power (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter danhr
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RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Have you considered removing the boost controller? I looked at a photo of the HBC "controller" and it looks like it should be trivial to take it out of the picture. It would be good to eliminate potential sources of problems to help diagnose the problem.
Does anyone have a link to the 13b-t FSM manual? I'd like to read about the injection pump settings. I suspect that all of the adjusting has gotten the pump way out of whack.
Does anyone have a link to the 13b-t FSM manual? I'd like to read about the injection pump settings. I suspect that all of the adjusting has gotten the pump way out of whack.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
I wouldn't call this HBC controller a "real" wastegate controller. It looks like a spring loaded valve that simply changes the amount of pressure making it to the wastegate diaphragm.
"...changes the amount of pressure making it to the wastegate diaphragm." is what a boost/wastegate controller does. You can get all fancy and expensive HKS EVC (VI) - Electronic Valve Controller - 6th generation : BoostController.com LLC - America's Source for High quality turbo boost controllers, silicone hose, and more performance products - 877-836-6155- precision boost control. Turbosmart Wareho which does basically the same thing. Regulate pressure going into the wastegate.
TurboLogic Performance Manual Boost Controllers : BoostController.com LLC - America's Source for High quality turbo boost controllers, silicone hose, and more performance products - 877-836-6155- precision boost control. Turbosmart Warehouse Distribu Is what I'm using, stops at 12psi every time, there appears to be no spring in it. The Hallman unit is pretty decent. Simple is good, all you really need to do is consistently vent a bit of air pressure out of the wastegate actuator. I was going to buy one, but the "plain-jane" brass one is probably just as solid for $30 less. Took about 20 minutes to install and get it tuned in.
The "Grainger valve" is not purpose built, it is a spring loaded one-way check valve that has to jury rigged to make it a "boost controller", I wouldn't trust it to be consistent.
Hokey...
TurboLogic Performance Manual Boost Controllers : BoostController.com LLC - America's Source for High quality turbo boost controllers, silicone hose, and more performance products - 877-836-6155- precision boost control. Turbosmart Warehouse Distribu Is what I'm using, stops at 12psi every time, there appears to be no spring in it. The Hallman unit is pretty decent. Simple is good, all you really need to do is consistently vent a bit of air pressure out of the wastegate actuator. I was going to buy one, but the "plain-jane" brass one is probably just as solid for $30 less. Took about 20 minutes to install and get it tuned in.
The "Grainger valve" is not purpose built, it is a spring loaded one-way check valve that has to jury rigged to make it a "boost controller", I wouldn't trust it to be consistent.
Hokey...
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Greg, you mentioned the boost compensator. As I understand it, the boost compensator starts adding fuel to keep the "mix" correct as the turbo is cramming more air in there. It's connected to the crossover pipe, which he mentioned is now running more psi than normal. You think it's possible that the diaphram in the compensator is damaged? What does the manual suggest as far as testing that? I don't have access to mine at the moment, but I am having similar issues.....and I am half way across the country from home. I never monkeyed with my fuel ratio though.
Its a little known mod called a throttle pedal. Seriously, you are on a path that will only end up at a rebuilders shop. Diddling with the fuel without an EGT gauge is the quickest and most surefire way to get a fresh engine, via a rebuild.
Good luck, you are gonna need it!
eric
