12v 2H starter issue (1 Viewer)

[Aravind Dileepan]

I'm having some intermittent issues starting my wagon. Sometimes, I can't really tell when, although it's happened occasionally over years, when I turn the key, I hear a click but the starter doesn't engage. A couple of years ago I changed my batteries (it's a 12v system with the batteries parallel) but that didn't solve it. This summer, I replaced all my battery cables and grounds and that didn't solve it.

Then, I found the ignition to starter connector isn't weather-tight and is kind of grimy and I thought it was the problem until fiddling with it this morning did not fix my problem.

I finally banged on the starter with a hammer and that seemed to work, although without isolating variables or another test, I can't be sure.

The trouble is that a couple of months ago I took the starter to a local (Leavenworth, KS) rebuild shop and they said everything was fine with it and that it didn't need rebuilding.

Before that, I'd bought a 12v 2H starter from Amazon but it didn't fit my bellhousing (H55).

Any thoughts or recommendations on either where I could get a quality starter, what the part number is for the starter (can't read the data plate on the one currently installed), or anything else I should do? Like, should I get into the column under the clamshell and start trying to check continuity from the ignition? I didn't think this would be the cause since I do hear the solenoid click. There's actually two clicks: one when I turn the key to ACC and the next when I turn the key to IGN.

 

[duncanrm]

All factory 2H model vehicles have a starter relay which often causes a "click, no crank" fault when there's pitting on the contacts of that relay. I'm unsure what you have - your .sig says its an FJ62 converted to a 2H? So its possible you dont even have a starter relay.. if you do, pull it apart and given the contacts a light sanding with some 600grit paper.. The standard 60 series place for this relay to be mounted is on the inside of the right fender behind the airbox mount.. The 47 had the relay mounted in the passenger footwell.. If you dont have a relay I'd be wondering if the ignition circuit is actually flowing enough current to kick the starter solenoid into action - a simple test would be to supply 12V+ direct to the starter post with a nice thick bit of wire when the fault is evident.

Here's mine from my HJ60 that I recently fixed.

 

[fjwagon]

If you dont mind I like share one of my experiences on a diesel 45. I have a 1980 H engine and it was not easy to start it. It reminded me of a dying battery but it never died. I initially load tested the battery and watch it with a voltmeter as I applied the load. That was not it. I cleaned the cables at both ends, I cleaned the terminals at the starter. I tried replacing the starter but are hard to locate at a decent price. I finally found actual parts numbers for the components used on the 12v starter. I crossed them over and replaced them. What I found after taking the starter apart was one set of the brushes was worn. Inop. This starter has 4 brushes, 2 of them were not working. I took the brush assy. To alternator/starter repair shop and they "welded"...if that is what you call it. These brushes cannot be soldered with ordinary tools
Anyhow, criuser started like a champ.

And then one day the starter would sometimes not start the engine. After troubleshooting, I finally I used a remote starter and bypassed the relay. It started every time with no issues. With the help of an OEM manual I ended up taking apart the wiring harness apart and found a bad solder joint. I temporarily did a work around by using a vise grips to hold the wiring together until I got around to repairing it.

I recommend getting a multimeter and ohm out your connections point to point. From the starter to the ignition. Also repeating connectors may help. I agree with starter relay. To check it, energize it and ohm out the contactor in the close position. It may need a little cleaning. Be gentle when you clean it. Good luck.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

I do have an erstwhile FJ62 that was converted to a 2H/H55 maybe about 10 years ago? I don't know precisely. @torfab did the conversion, so I trust they did good work.

That said, can't find a starter relay. I did find this. I'm not sure if it's serving as a starter relay, though. I do have an email out to Torfab.

I've had the starter itself tested at a shop and they said it passed with flying colors.

I have a friend who's recommending a remote starter as well, and while that might be reliable, it doesn't solve the underlying issue. I'm also not sure how to run the lights and accessories if I use a remote starter switch instead of the ignition.

Thanks,

Ara

 

[samwise]

Ive had a similar problem with my 3b, its rare though, but I havent been able to chase it down yet, Im guessing some sort of bad ground or wiring as mentioned above. I would look through all your relays though, glow plug relay, etc Sorry Im not more help with that.

While it sounds like your starter is fine, below is a link on swapping a new starting motor into a old housing, its for a 3b but might work for your set up as well?

If you find your cause please post.

3B starter replacement - nose cone swap

This is old old old news, but since I was a little frustrated finding pics and part numbers, this is my contribution... Starters for 3B's like mine (p/n 28100-56080 for a 12V 1982 BJ42 w/ EDIC) have long been discontinued. The motor itself, however, is used in other Toyota starters and can be...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[fjwagon]

On an Earilier post I meant to write Reseat not "repeat". Connectors oxidize overtime so reseating connectors in the circuit may help. Disconnect the battery before cleaning terminals with a wire brush is recommended if you are going to clean them. Do the same to the fuses and grounds. Another problematic issue I see is the wiring harness may development a cold sold joint. The starter and the glow plug circuits have a hire probability of this happening. A lot current flows through these circuits. And it gets worse when you have a not so good connection.

Anyhow, a remote starter is to help trouble shoot a problem, and yeah I agree it's not a fix but some it is . The remote starter is a self actuated switch, when you let go, it will go to a "normally open"state. It essentially becomes your assistant. Rotate the ignition switch to the ON position and connect remote starter to battery and starter. It will help satisfy the curiosity or confirm what is working vs. what's not working. if it starts it could very well be the relay but at least you know part of the circuit working.. Sometimes you can have a combination of problems in the same circuit. These are harder to fix but still fixable. Land Cruisers are very dependable once you fix everything that is wrong. I have taken mine to Mexico and up North, Denver without issues.

 

[Aravind Dileepan]

Thanks, @fjwagon, that's what I was thinking. My instinct is that mine is the same problem you had in your 47 because I can't find a starter relay anywhere. There's only that "Main Relay."

I should probably rig up a remote starter and then dig into the ignition wiring looking for a bad joint.

Can you please talk me through a bit more about the remote starter? Did you have to open your hood ever time you wanted to start your car? How did you rig up the connection?

Thanks,

Ara

 

[fjwagon]

My guess is you have a starter relay somewhere. The ignition to the relay itself is low power and it only makes sense that a relay and a fuse will be part of the circuit. The remote starter I mentioned is used to troubleshoot and it should long enough to take into the cab. Once you set up your remote starter, hopefully you will know more about your problem. I have used it to get me home. It's a nice tool to have in the tool box especially here in the states, parts are not easy to locate since these were not sold in the USA.

Do a visual check at the terminal lugs. Make sure all the wire strands are good and not broken. Broken strands can also cause problems. And while you are there clean them with a wire brush. I like to use the miniature wire brush that welder use to clean their equipment.

Googling the part numbers of the relays may help you ID the starter relay. Follow the color of the wire from the starter to the relay. Try looking for an OEM schematic. It should have the color codes listed on the schematic. Do not remove the harness that is in the cab section out to check for cold solder unless all your checks are telling to go there and only do as the last resort. I say this because its a lot of work and possibly induce another issue. Try to get second set hands if you can. Takes lots of pics before taking any thing apart, it will come in handy, trust me and labeling your connectors will also help.

 

[fjwagon]

The only other thing I can think of is ID the color codes at the solenoid and follow them back. You may end up using the schematic for an fj60. And if I remember correctly the fuse should go directly to the ignition, make sure that section of the circuit is good as well.