12ht tick tick noise (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

chappohj47

Chappo Built
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Threads
39
Messages
1,174
Location
Aus
Hi guys a have a 12ht motor that was rebuilt last year and it had about 250km on it when I got it an I have put about 1100km on it in the last 2 weeks about 3 days ago it started making a ticking noise it sounds like it's coming from the front cylinder and piston so I am not happy I put a little bit of 15w40 oil in it to top it up the other day which was gulf western top dog xdo which I used in my 80 series 1hz which developed a tick just after I serviced it and just before it got stolen but I also put diesel in it from a different servo so I was just wanting to know what other people thoughts on this would be It only uses oil because turbo leaks
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
The noise matches rpm except hard to hear at higher rpm because of how loud the engine is
 
And what would be the best oil to run in it mineral or synthetic 15w40 and what brand
 
Can't help about the tick, but I use Liqui-Moly synthetic oils in conjunction with the additives from Cost Effective Maintenance in Queensland. In my 1997 Peugeot 406 STDT I have just switched from Pentrite mineral oil, and I can feel a difference in how smooth it is. Be aware, though, that if a seal is a bit iffy already, it will leak more with synthetic. Don't ask how I found that out...but a bit more oil on the driveway is a small compromise to know that it is well lubricated.
 
The ute will be at the mechanics tomorrow as for oil just spoke to my mate who is back from china he is a landcruiser expert but spend most of his time out of the country in the last year running a gold mine he said to run delo 400 oil I had spoke with him about oil months ago for my other vehicles but couldn't remember what oil he said
 
The tick, maybe valve clearance?? Any major oil brand will do the job, preference is personal , you could look at a thicker viscosity, eg 15/50. 20/50
 
Hi Chappohj47, you need to use a mineral based oil in these engines, also the oil needs to be high in zinc content which clines and builds a layer on worn parts. Some sticky additives are good if the vehicle sits say for a week between starts which yours does not, the higher the zinc the better.

Synthetic oil in our climate becomes to thin and you loose oil pressure in these engines (the 2H does the same) plus the detergent cleans out the engine and the gaskets will leak.

I am running Penrite Classic Light 30 (SAE) which is a 20w60 mineral oil and is very very very high in zinc, probably double that of other oils.

"CLASSIC LIGHT is a premium mineral, SAE 20W-60, high zinc, low detergent engine oil designed specifically for petrol and diesel fueled vehicles manufactured between 1950 and 1989. It features a double layer of engine wear protection with high zinc and increased operating temperature viscosity over older style multigrade oils or where SAE 30 monograde oil was specified by the manufacturer. It controls oil consumption and maintains oil pressure in older engines.

Application
CLASSIC LIGHT
is suitable for passenger cars, motorcycles, 4WD's, light & heavy duty commercial vehicles (trucks, buses & heavy equipment), tractors & industrial machines that originally specified a multigrade 20W-40, 20W-50 or monograde SAE 30 engine oil and were fitted with an engine oil filter.

CLASSIC LIGHT is a multi-grade oil that contains a special additive pack that suit vehicles of the era and is compatible with grades that were originally specified. This oil exceeds the specification requirements of original oils required during this period hence offering a greater level of engine protection compared to original oils. It is ideal in vehicles operating in cooler ambient temperatures and is suitable as an engine/transmission oil in vehicles manufactured by Austin, Morris, BMC & Leyland. It is also suitable for use in motorcycles that require this viscosity and grade of oil.

CLASSIC LIGHT is an API SG/CD grade oil and contains HIGH ZINC levels for added anti-wear protection for older engines.

CLASSIC LIGHT features a standard multigrade cold temperature SAE viscosity grade with an increased operating temperature range that provides and added layer of protection for the engine especially under increased load and temperature conditions. Multigrade oils provide better start up protection and better protection at operating temperature than monograde oils and they do not need to be changed in winter and summer as they used to do.

CLASSIC LIGHT contains a "Tacky Additive" so that when the vehicles are laid up, the engine oil doesn't run off the internal surfaces. This combined with an increased level of rust inhibitor, provides protection against corrosion and deterioration when the engine is not used or in storage"



Ticking at idle can be from too low a oil pressure from too thin a oil and a worn lifter then starts to tick because of this, and or tappets need adjusting.

I put synthetic in my 2H once and as soon as the engine got to temperature the oil pressure just dropped away, put a heavy mineral oil in and all good. The 2H runs for 12 months before I change the oil and it does not burn a drop.

There is something about the oil pumps in these engines that don't like to thin a oil.
 
Whether the oil is too thin or thick depends on the viscosity of the oil, not whether it is synthetic or not. I run 5-50w mobil 1 rally formula on my 12ht and have done so succesfully for past 7 years with no problems and so have others.

Now about the ticking noise, I believe it's something of a feature in these engines and most will develope it with time. My personal view in this matter is that the noise comes from lifter-rocker contact and is made more prominent with wear. It is also my personal opinion that the normal ticking noise doesnt harm the engine and is something you dont have to worry about. I know my engine has the noise and i have heard several others that make the noise and so far non of these engines have failed.
 
We'll the noise stopped the mechanic reckoned it was a sticky injector I will see if it comes back
 
Nah mate sold the ute did it on and off
 
Oh well. Thanks anyway.

Hey, maybe we will hear from the next bloke with a question about why his UTE is making a strange noise. Haha!!

-Sean
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom