12ht hj61 motor mount insulator replacement advice? (1 Viewer)

[kevin in okinawa]

Sure enough when I put a pry bar to this rubber I see a separation so it’s coming out! Eventually? I’ve got a small floor jack with blocks snug up to the bell housing. Ready to jack up. Not the oil pan. I’ve got the other side mount loosened up, removed the/ transmission cross member bolts.
On the actual block bracket, the bottom 2 bolts are out, but these two at the top
rub up against the actual insulator too much for them to come out clean it seems. Don’t they need to for me to
Be able to remove the insulator?

Do I need to unbolt the fan shroud?
12ht, 1989 hj61, rhd

 

[cruiserpilot]

Have you got new mounts? Look at disconnecting the transfer case bolts to loosen everything up, engine hoist
from above is how I would do it. Fan is close to shroud, just unbolt the shroud and let it lay loose should be enough.
Good time to investigate transfer case mount as well.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

done! I needed a bigger floor jack to deal with 37" tire height. The installation of the new insulator was way easier than I thought it might be...good for me! Did end up loosening the fan shroud and the trans mount.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

update: raising the motor caused a few problems. 1) my hi and low pressure AC hoses loosened themselves allowing the freon to escape. easy fix but $60 to add to cost of repair. 2) it appears that I created a crack somewhere in the rear heater coolant lines...so if you are reading this and about to replace your very own motor mount insulator, consider loosening those coolant lines that may be bolted to the body/engine bay somewhere.

Note: in addition to using the floor jack to raise the motor, I ended up cutting a 2x4 to length to use as an extra lever. The floor jack got the motor in about the correct spot but it wasn't close enough to get the block bracket lined up correctly, as it was angled just enough to be a problem with alignment. I cut a V-shape on on end and wedged that securely under the turbo mounting bracket (i replaced the insulator on the turbo side). Yes, the bracket is beefy enough for this. I then used a BFH to tap the bottom of the 2x4 until the bracket lined up PERFECTLY with the block.

 

[cruiserpilot]

update: raising the motor caused a few problems. 1) my hi and low pressure AC hoses loosened themselves allowing the freon to escape. easy fix but $60 to add to cost of repair. 2) it appears that I created a crack somewhere in the rear heater coolant lines...so if you are reading this and about to replace your very own motor mount insulator, consider loosening those coolant lines that may be bolted to the body/engine bay somewhere.

Good advice, I'd not have thought of these things, but how did your fuel lines manage? That's what I'd have been worried about.
PS lines okay too?

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Good advice, I'd not have thought of these things, but how did your fuel lines manage? That's what I'd have been worried about.
PS lines okay too?

Everything else seems okay