105 Sector Shaft upgrade - Steering box rebuild (1 Viewer)

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That looks very doable, takes a lot of the mystery out of rebuilding the box. Thanks for putting this together Adam.
 
Great write up, and pics.
I never have enough patience to take pics when I'm working on a vehicle.

One comment I'll make is in relation to your reference to Philips screws.
Pretty much a certainty they'll be JIS screws. A Philips screws driver can be fine in a pinch, but if they are tight, using a Philips screws driver increases the chances of stripping the head of screws a lot.
 
Step 4: Disassemble the worm gear valve body assembly.

Separate the worm gear from the power piston by turning the input shaft. Be careful of the ball bearings inside that could come out. Don't lose any that come out.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now remove the two screws holding the ball bearing tube. #2 Phillips screws. Keep track of the metal strap that holds the tube. The tube is two pieces. Set those aside also. Put the ball bearings in some kind of container so you don't lose any.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Next, make a mark on the valve body housing, the lock ring and preload nut so you can line them back up during reassembly.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Remove the lock nut. I used a small punch and hammer to loosen the nut.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now remove the preload nut. I used a small punch in the holes on the nut to spin the nut.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

There's another needle bearing inside the preload nut.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Under the needle bearing is a metal ring (bearing race) and you can see a Teflon ring inside the bore of the nut that you'll replace.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now you can remove the input shaft. It might need a couple taps with a mallet to get it out. The Teflon rings on the input shaft are not included in the seal kit so the ones on the shaft will be reused. Don't damage them.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Inside the input shaft housing is a seal and bearing that need to come out. This seal is often the one that leaks.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

The bearing and seal removed
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now you've got everything apart, clean everything up before moving onto the reassembly.
 
When you remove preload nut is there just one bearing race under a thrust needle bearing so the shaft flange serves as the other side bearing race? I just disassembled mine and it's weird that the other needle bearing on the shaft has two races washers.
Roman
 
When you remove preload nut is there just one bearing race under a thrust needle bearing so the shaft flange serves as the other side bearing race? I just disassembled mine and it's weird that the other needle bearing on the shaft has two races washers.
Roman
Yes I believe the shaft flange serves as the other bearing race.
 
Hope I never need this, but it's comforting to know it's here.
 
Any part numbers for the stake nut and adjusting screw? Having issues locating as I just learned I am no good at reclaiming the old one!

Stake nut 44142-60020

Adjusting screw 45357-60030
 
The fluid in the gearbox I am rebuilding is really bad. How do people clean everything up? Is it just a case of wiping all the excess fluid off or can you use a cleaner on all the parts without damaging the bearings and non-replaceable Teflon rings?
 
The fluid in the gearbox I am rebuilding is really bad. How do people clean everything up? Is it just a case of wiping all the excess fluid off or can you use a cleaner on all the parts without damaging the bearings and non-replaceable Teflon rings?
I use paint thinner. Some people use diesel, which is much cheaper.
 
Did the thread pitch change on the 105 sector shaft?
At any rate, is 90170-22058 the correct hex nut for securing pitman arm?
Also, it turns out I got either a mini truck box, or a 40 series box sent back to me. That's what I get for not really examining parts in a timely manner. The situation has been resolved, but sheesh.
 
Did the thread pitch change on the 105 sector shaft?
At any rate, is 90170-22058 the correct hex nut for securing pitman arm?
Also, it turns out I got either a mini truck box, or a 40 series box sent back to me. That's what I get for not really examining parts in a timely manner. The situation has been resolved, but sheesh.
40 boxes do look exactly like 80 boxes. :rolleyes:
 
@Grandlooser I know, I know. All I did when I first got it was open the box and make sure there was a steering box in there. Since I'm not versed in 40 series at all, I thought the heat shield mounts were something they used to hang the boxes for painting. Since I wasn't ready to embark on steering work at the time, I didn't think anything more about it. Lesson learned on my end believe me.
 
@Grandlooser I know, I know. All I did when I first got it was open the box and make sure there was a steering box in there. Since I'm not versed in 40 series at all, I thought the heat shield mounts were something they used to hang the boxes for painting. Since I wasn't ready to embark on steering work at the time, I didn't think anything more about it. Lesson learned on my end believe me.
To be honest I was rolling eyes more at those who shipped it to you. But now that I know you inspected it and approved...:lol:
 
Even worse, I sent pictures once and asked about the "weird brackets"; no lightbulbs went off for anyone at that point either.
 
nice write up here by the author.and many informative inputs shared here too by other contributors.i have a box i adjusted hoping to eliminate play.however the adjustment screw is already flush with nut and still sloppy.i was thinking to rebuild to eliminate thia play.and maybe upgrade to 105 sector and pitman.my question is,how does preload adjustment change with wear?does it go out of adjustment because of bearing damage?and how does your homemade sst look like?thanks gentlemen.
 
nice write up here by the author.and many informative inputs shared here too by other contributors.i have a box i adjusted hoping to eliminate play.however the adjustment screw is already flush with nut and still sloppy.i was thinking to rebuild to eliminate thia play.and maybe upgrade to 105 sector and pitman.my question is,how does preload adjustment change with wear?does it go out of adjustment because of bearing damage?and how does your homemade sst look like?thanks gentlemen.
Rather than adjusting preload based on where the screw is in relation to the nut, or even adjusting by feel, I would suggest referencing the Factory Service Manual for proper instructions for setting preload.
 

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