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Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
Location
New York
Hello mudders,

I have been trying to get to this for a while and finally purchased the Dobinsons lift kit. I'm not installing new torsion bars at this time since I don't have much weight in the front end (yet).

Does anyone happen to know the bolt sizes for the shocks, I would like to replace them.

I would like to also know the bolt sizes for the rear tow hitch receiver they need to be replaced. I need to cut the borla exhaust to weld a new tip to fit into the hitch receiver.


Is there anything else I should replace on the suspension since I'm replacing the shocks? I'm adding new UCAs to ensure the CV is aligned properly.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
10,477
Location
Salt Lake City
Diff drop will do more for the CV's than UCA's will, they work more for alignment. Depending on miles and condition sway bar links is a good while you're in there.

Search "hitch bolt size", limit to titles and 100 section only, couple threads with the size, same for the shocks.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Messages
207
Location
Granby, CO
Pretty sure the hitch bolts are m12x1.25x50ishmm. Not sure on shock bolts, replaced mine a couple years ago and just took one to the hardware store with me.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
Location
New York
Thank you for the direction @Trunk Monkey I couldn't seem to find it as I did my diving. I only have about 77k currently, but it never hurts to get it done.

The lift is no more than 2 inches, I spoke to the rep at Exit Off Road, and he told me the UCA's for sure the diff drop is optional but best for 2 and above in lifts. Should I get a diff drop to be on the safe side?
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Messages
207
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Just curious but with only 77k why do you find the need to replace these bolts? My shock bolts at 200k needed it as they were worn down in the center from the shock mount sleeve resulting in movement and a very annoying chirp there.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
Location
New York
There really isn't any reason as far as for structural integrity, it's really just to ensure I get the longevity of the truck, I also live on the rust belt, so I want to do the best I can to keep it going. For only a couple bucks, I thought it would be good.

I will replace the sway bar links just because I'm there now, so I'll tackle that.
 

suprarx7nut

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Hello mudders,

I have been trying to get to this for a while and finally purchased the Dobinsons lift kit. I'm not installing new torsion bars at this time since I don't have much weight in the front end (yet).

Does anyone happen to know the bolt sizes for the shocks, I would like to replace them.

I would like to also know the bolt sizes for the rear tow hitch receiver they need to be replaced. I need to cut the borla exhaust to weld a new tip to fit into the hitch receiver.


Is there anything else I should replace on the suspension since I'm replacing the shocks? I'm adding new UCAs to ensure the CV is aligned properly.
Shock bolts; I'd get OEM bolts. They're pre-treated with threadlocker and I believe a high strength variety. That's not a bolt you want to swap for something from the hardware store. Those bolts *will* walk themselves out if not thread-locked. The factory manual has them listed as one time use for good reason.
 
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Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
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That is good to know. What about the sway bar links? OEM or aftermarket? I know polyurethane is a no on bushings with these trucks, since it makes a lot of noise.
 

suprarx7nut

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That is good to know. What about the sway bar links? OEM or aftermarket? I know polyurethane is a no on bushings with these trucks, since it makes a lot of noise.
OEM is good for most everything on these vehicles. Unless you have a specific need that isn't met by OEM, go OEM. The few $$ you'll save going aftermarket will eventually bite you, IMO.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Messages
207
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Granby, CO
My memory failed me on the hitch bolts, just ran a tap in one of the holes and it’s m14x1.5. As for shock bolts, oem is the obvious choice if you’re not in a pinch…that said my hardware store grade 10.9 bolts haven’t budged in 30k miles so I’m not too worried.
 
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Oct 12, 2019
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If you mean the bolts that hold the hitch receiver to the frame, they are M14x1.5
Yeah, I corrected that in my post above yours. Not sure why I was thinking the m12 earlier.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
Location
New York
I appreciate all the input. I'm gonna get a sway bar refresh kit from cruiserteq.


What about the ball joints on the LCA do they need to be replaced or should I just do that as it comes?

The bushings on the Front differential and control arms should they be replaced? Lately I've been having this clunk when accelerating from a full stop. I greased up the drive shaft, seems to be something else. I heard possibly the bushings have some play.


Also if you guys know a place to get OEM for less money please let me know. I know partsouq, cruiserteq, and sometimes eBay has some stuff.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
260
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Charlotte
I appreciate all the input. I'm gonna get a sway bar refresh kit from cruiserteq.


What about the ball joints on the LCA do they need to be replaced or should I just do that as it comes?

The bushings on the Front differential and control arms should they be replaced? Lately I've been having this clunk when accelerating from a full stop. I greased up the drive shaft, seems to be something else. I heard possibly the bushings have some play.


Also if you guys know a place to get OEM for less money please let me know. I know partsouq, cruiserteq, and sometimes eBay has some stuff.

I often use Partsouq to find the part number, then Google to see ToyotaPartsDeal and other dealer sites prices.

Lots of times I find the closest dealer to me that is still using the "FREESHIP" coupon code and get the OEM parts shipped to me.

Funny enough Partsouq has the fastest shipping of any of the above even with parts coming from UAE, and their prices are sometimes low enough to come ahead even with shipping cost if you're not ordering anything bulky.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
753
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Baton Rouge, LA
Shock bolts; I'd get OEM bolts. They're pre-treated with threadlocker and I believe a high strength variety. That's not a bolt you want to swap for something from the hardware store. Those bolts *will* walk themselves out if not thread-locked. The factory manual has them listed as one time use for good reason.

Can speak from experience, those bolts will just fall out on the trail somewhere if not properly torqued and coated. I'm sure I had the right torque values, but didn't bother with thread locker, somewhere on a 4300 mile road trip, one of them fell out.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
753
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
I appreciate all the input. I'm gonna get a sway bar refresh kit from cruiserteq.


What about the ball joints on the LCA do they need to be replaced or should I just do that as it comes?

The bushings on the Front differential and control arms should they be replaced? Lately I've been having this clunk when accelerating from a full stop. I greased up the drive shaft, seems to be something else. I heard possibly the bushings have some play.


Also if you guys know a place to get OEM for less money please let me know. I know partsouq, cruiserteq, and sometimes eBay has some stuff.

Ball joints on the LCA can be a real bear of a job, getting the right size cups and applying a ton of torque to push them out. And the replacement ball joints (japanese Napa ones) don't fit as well (stick up a bit) and are prone to rust without proper prep and coating. Only do that if you've tested your current ones and find excessive play.

Front diff and control arms bushings can certainly be a leading cause of clunk, worth replacing them. I always use Parts souq, then cross check ebay and the vendors here.
 
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This method is probably the easiest for the ball joints. I’d agree, test them for play and only do it when/if they fail. You’d have to buy the whole arms to get oem ball joints, so you’re faced with aftermarket for a replacement of only the bj. Most swear by 555 which is the route I went, so far so good but research proves they’re not an oem equivalent.

I’m not trying to advocate non oem shock bolts but I’m also not sold that it shouldn’t be done. My rig sees plenty of off-road, on average I’d say more than most and there’s been zero issues. Maybe it’s because I used the oem nuts and torqued them with the wheels on the ground, maybe they’ll fall out tomorrow but I doubt it. Anyway, buy OEM and don’t worry about it.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
52
Location
New York
This method is probably the easiest for the ball joints. I’d agree, test them for play and only do it when/if they fail. You’d have to buy the whole arms to get oem ball joints, so you’re faced with aftermarket for a replacement of only the bj. Most swear by 555 which is the route I went, so far so good but research proves they’re not an oem equivalent.

I’m not trying to advocate non oem shock bolts but I’m also not sold that it shouldn’t be done. My rig sees plenty of off-road, on average I’d say more than most and there’s been zero issues. Maybe it’s because I used the oem nuts and torqued them with the wheels on the ground, maybe they’ll fall out tomorrow but I doubt it. Anyway, buy OEM and don’t worry about it.



I was looking into the 555 parts, they are made in Japan, I thought they were equivalent to AISIN, Napa, Koyo, etc. (The parts Toyota certifies.) It seems like they are just aftermarket Japan parts. Though they are pretty good in quality based on people's experience.


As everyone said's I'm gonna check for play when I get it on the lift, so OEM bushings is the way to go?
 
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Oct 12, 2019
Messages
207
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As far as options go 555 is said to be the best, all I meant was they are not as good as the OEM BJ.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
10,477
Location
Salt Lake City
Kinda feels like your shotgunning things at this - from lifts, to tow bar bolts to now bushings and ball joints. There's a case for PM on a lot of things, but also a lot of "if it ain't broke". This forum can def. make it feel like everything needs to be replaced, just be smart about it.
 

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