100 series stall (1 Viewer)

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Aug 13, 2021
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Location
Colorado
So I am currently camping and towing a 4000lb trailer in Colorado mountains elevation 8000ft. Towed great no trouble code, misfire, loss off power, anything, and never got over 210 for coolant. Pulled into the camp ground, got out to read a sign got in and the truck sputter then died. Would turn over and sounded like I was getting a spark but wouldn't start. After 10 minutes it started right up and was running smooth as ever. About 5 minutes later backing into a site it did it one more time sputtering and wouldnt build rpms then stalled. I have a live obdII monitor and had some pending codes for lean fuel and misfires. After 5 minutes it started up and I backed in couldnt find codes in history and nothing active so now im at camp having a beer. It sounds like vapor lock to me but with fuel injection, also could be bad fuel pump or fuel filter. Any ideas???
 
So I am currently camping and towing a 4000lb trailer in Colorado mountains elevation 8000ft. Towed great no trouble code, misfire, loss off power, anything, and never got over 210 for coolant. Pulled into the camp ground, got out to read a sign got in and the truck sputter then died. Would turn over and sounded like I was getting a spark but wouldn't start. After 10 minutes it started right up and was running smooth as ever. About 5 minutes later backing into a site it did it one more time sputtering and wouldnt build rpms then stalled. I have a live obdII monitor and had some pending codes for lean fuel and misfires. After 5 minutes it started up and I backed in couldnt find codes in history and nothing active so now im at camp having a beer. It sounds like vapor lock to me but with fuel injection, also could be bad fuel pump or fuel filter. Any ideas???
Did you ever figure this out? I had a similar experience today with my 2007.
 
Did you ever figure this out? I had a similar experience today with my 2007.
Determined it was vapor lock. The fuel lines run so close to the drivers side cat. I have sense wrapped the pipes with Thermal wrap and wrap the fuel lines. Not sure if it enough to fix it yet. I might have a shop install a real heat shield or get insulated fuel lines and reroute them. What was your engine temp when it happened?
 
In the 06-07 stalling and getting lean DTC (codes) at same time, is very often a bad fuel pump (FP). Replacing fuel pump solves 9 out of 10 06-07 cases. Which is often thought to be "vapor lock". It's usually associated with OAT above ~72F, sunny day and running in high RPM (like ascending a mountain pass or passing). FP motor gets hot, running in it's high speed. As RPMs drop back, FP speed drops back. Then FP doesn't produce adequate flow/pressure to fuel rail, in it's low speed. Ergo lean DTC!

There is a fuel pump resistor w/heat sink on PS inner fender, just about 6 inches back of air filter box. During low RPM, power is passed through the resistor, which reduces current to fuel pump, to runs FP motor in a lower speed. Heat increases resistance in FP resistor, FP wires and FP motors.

We "may" also have issue with FP resistor. But currently Toyota show 06-07 resistor NA. When engine is running hot, the whole engine compartment heats. This adds the mix of the heat cycle, by heating resistor and fuel. I'm currently checking FP resistor temps with IR temp gun. I'm trying to establish a baseline. Which may help diagnose a troublesome FP resistor.

MAF sensors can also have issues, adding into complexity.

Vacuum leaks must also be eliminated. Or we may run lean, which increases cylinder head temp, and we run hot.

With ECT (engine coolant temp) of 210f, which engine is running hot! Cats, FP resistor, fuel line, fuel rails and return fuel lines also get hotter than normal. This further heats fuel and FP pump. These are also conditions we see in fuel boiling issue. In fuel boiling issues events, we've not had reports of lean fuel DTC that I've heard of or seen in mud. They're associated with heavy fuel smells an visible vapors from gas cap area.

Number one reason for ECT of 210F+, is coolant system needs servicing. Number one issue here is, clogged radiator fins. But pulling a trailer, in July summer heat, reaching ECT of 210f may be normal. For a heavy built, loaded and pulling slowly up hill in high summer heat of OATs above ~90F. ECT should drop back fast as one stops and idles in D (like at stop sign) even lower in P or N.

 
Determined it was vapor lock. The fuel lines run so close to the drivers side cat. I have sense wrapped the pipes with Thermal wrap and wrap the fuel lines. Not sure if it enough to fix it yet. I might have a shop install a real heat shield or get insulated fuel lines and reroute them. What was your engine temp when it happened?
Don’t know exact engine temp (embarrassed to say I don’t know how I’d check that) but it was hot from three hours of driving AND it was 95 degrees outside.
 
Don’t know exact engine temp (embarrassed to say I don’t know how I’d check that) but it was hot from three hours of driving AND it was 95 degrees outside.
I use a OBDII monitor while driving only way to accurately tell. 2001LC it extremely knowledgeable in this subject. It is very hard to trouble shoot cause how do you trouble shoot it unless it happens....
 

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