100 series oem fuel tank skid and strap replacement - rear frame side strap 14mm bolt removal? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Threads
3
Messages
50
Location
southeastern pennsylvania
2004 lx470 usa. 136k.

i'm in the process of replacing the factory skid plate. i have the old skid plate off the vehicle. the straps are disconnected on the driveshaft side of the tank. the tank is supported with 1" webbing slung over both frame rails. the tank is all but empty, maybe half a gallon remains. i could install the new skid now, but the original straps have seen better days. i have new straps painted and ready. the problem is- i don't see a way to remove the rear strap bracket's 14mm bolt without removing the fuel tank. i'm speaking of the rear fuel tank strap bracket holding the strap pin which is located along the frame rail. is it possible to shift the tank over without damaging any of the lines on top of the tank, to get a socket up in there??? even then, it will be tricky.

if i gotta drop the tank, i may leave the old straps in there til spring rolls around. archery season is here;)

i've searched the forum, youtube, and my service manual. aside from a parts schematic, i haven't found anything useful.
Screenshot 2022-09-17 12.26.46 AM.png
 
If you’re replacing the skid due to rust issues, I would inspect your tank and lines anyway to ensure you don’t need to replace those as well. Either way, inspect the lines before trying to shift the tank for clearance. If they are rotting, you will likely damage them and have to replace them anyway.
 
i'm pretty sure the lines are okay- the skid plate took the hit. there's just a few spots of surface rust on the tank which i will hit with the die grinder/wire wheel, apply acid, clean, prime and paint. but, i guess i'll bite the bullet and go all in and drop the tank. i'll be able to dress that section of frame while i'm at it. here it goes...
 
i'm pretty sure the lines are okay- the skid plate took the hit. there's just a few spots of surface rust on the tank which i will hit with the die grinder/wire wheel, apply acid, clean, prime and paint. but, i guess i'll bite the bullet and go all in and drop the tank. i'll be able to dress that section of frame while i'm at it. here it goes...
I’m in the same boat today… except mine does include tackling the lines, all 3.
 
I accomplished this by cutting a hole in the skid plate big enough to fit a jack through. then jacking the tank up, then removing the straps, then taking out the skid plate, then using nylon webbing to hold the gas tank in place. Once the webbing is in, remove the jack, next attach the new skid plate, straps and bolts. Get the bolts about 3/4 the way in, then cut away and remove all the nylon webbing (the tank will drop a quarter inch, no big deal). Last tighten the bolts on the straps all the way in and you're done.
 
my tank's down. i needle scaled and wire brushed the frame and tank. i began degreasing the frame in preperation for paint. surprisingly, there was more corrosion on top of the tank due to the upward curved nature of the two welded tank halves trapping moisture. i put some naval jelly on those areas last night and will wire brush those areas again today.

in answer to my own question at the start of the thread: i could have just left the brackets bolted to the frame, and knocked out the pins to replace the straps and used new pins. in my case the brackets didn't need replaced, just the straps. but i'm glad i went ahead and dropped the tank. it was less of an ordeal than i feared. now i'll have new brackets and all the bolts will receive anti seize. the only items that absolutely need replaced right now are a couple of those small hose clamps.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom