100 series long travel #ih8torsionbars! (1 Viewer)

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Sleeved cv is only temporary till my custom chromoly shafts come in. Drive shafts are super strong because of the large diameter, there is a formula to determine the correct size of tubing to be stronger than solid stock. That being said I have never seen a cv shaft explode on a 100, usually the cage fails or splines twist off before the shaft fails.

I would just run the welded CV's lol
 
In for more pics from the outside.
 
whats the difference between that and the welded tubes on a driveshaft
The torque is higher after the diffs.

Overall neato setup, interested to see some more details.
 
I would just run the welded CV's lol
I have part time 4wd kit so that helps, the main reason you don’t want to keep it sleeved is that the cv is no longer balanced, i machined it to a thousandth but the uneven weight of the welds will cause a little high speed vibration.
 
How much $$?
If I had to do it again probably under $10k, if you weld the lca front mounts instead of subframe probably under $8k.

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I have part time 4wd kit so that helps, the main reason you don’t want to keep it sleeved is that the cv is no longer balanced, i machined it to a thousandth but the uneven weight of the welds will cause a little high speed vibration.

Did you try it? I don't think it would vibrate being small diameter
 
The torque is higher after the diffs.

Overall neato setup, interested to see some more details.

sure but it's still anemic 2UZ 200hp
 
Did you try it? I don't think it would vibrate being small diameter
Yeah and it's turning slower and has such a shorter span between bearing surfaces. Balance not as critical
 
Did you custom fab your LCA and UCA, or were they something you sourced from another vehicle? Did you tie the front and rear subframe together with a brace of some sort?
 
It doesn’t let me upload videos, screenshot pic from a video

Hey mods, I think people are still having a hard time understanding how to post a video. Feel free to copy this up to the top if you want.

How to post a YouTube video on an IH8MUD thread

1. Go to the YouTube video you would like to post and select and copy the part of the URL that is after the equal (=) sign.

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2. Go to the thread you would like to post the video in and click the post reply button located at the end of the thread towards the left.

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3. In the message body, type your comment about the video. (this is the text part)

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4. When you reach the point where you would like the video inserted into your post, type exactly what you see in the next picture.

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5. Paste the code that you copied from step #1.

6. Type exactly what you see in the next picture.

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7. Before you hit the Submit Reply button you post should look something like this. You can even select the Preview Post button to test your work before submitting the post to the thread.

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Did you custom fab your LCA and UCA, or were they something you sourced from another vehicle? Did you tie the front and rear subframe together with a brace of some sort?
Any uppers with heim or uniball can be modified or made 2” longer, can’t have ball joints, lowers are hand made, you could use factory lowers with proper bracing and support. Front and rear subframes don’t have to be braced together, rear works as subframe and diff drop, frame bushings are converted to solid bushings.

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Are the UCAs you used actually wider/longer than stock? Trying to figure out where you got the extra 2" in track width from on each side. Or did you just make your mounting brackets on the frame side sit outboard 2" more? I thought I read in your original post that your UCA and LCA were made to accomodate the coil-over without the knuckle contacting the shock. Did you make that frame-side bushing you pictured, or is that something you found somewhere? Any additional harshness to the ride quality from going solid bushing? Sorry for all of the questions, but this is a really cool project. Thanks for sharing!

Edit: Looking back at the pics you posted I see that it looks like your LCA mounting point is indeed further outboard than the factory location. Reading the questions/answers you confirmed this. How do you get reasonable camber now that you have kicked the bottom mounting point on the spindle 2" out from the original alignment with the top?
 
Are the UCAs you used actually wider/longer than stock? Trying to figure out where you got the extra 2" in track width from on each side. Or did you just make your mounting brackets on the frame side sit outboard 2" more? I thought I read in your original post that your UCA and LCA were made to accomodate the coil-over without the knuckle contacting the shock. Did you make that frame-side bushing you pictured, or is that something you found somewhere? Any additional harshness to the ride quality from going solid bushing? Sorry for all of the questions, but this is a really cool project. Thanks for sharing!

Edit: Looking back at the pics you posted I see that it looks like your LCA mounting point is indeed further outboard than the factory location. Reading the questions/answers you confirmed this. How do you get reasonable camber now that you have kicked the bottom mounting point on the spindle 2" out from the original alignment with the top?
The UCA are made 2” longer than factory, the lca are factory length but mounts 2” out, you get a lot better ground clearance the way I designed it vs dropping the lca frame brackets straight down, you don’t need the lca to be longer than factory because when you give the knuckle enough clearance it has all the movement you need. Without bump stops and fenders you could get around 14” of travel. All the steering geometry stays factory, my original thought was to just pivot the top knuckle mount so it doesn’t curve inward but that would throw off your kingpin angle. If you look at how the top of a 4Runner knuckle is designed, it doesn’t bend inward like the 100. Casting new knuckles was a road I didn’t want to travel, maybe if you were doing baja 1000 that would be better. It was a lot of redesign and problem solving, this is the end result to fix all the issues of the 100 series.
 
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I think your solution is great, and by dropping the LCA like you did you only threw in one new variable for suspension travel which was the longer UCA. I agree fabbing a new knuckle would have been a whole new endeavor. Cool to see that going with the longer UCA you were able to get acceptable suspension travel/arc. Did you make those UCAs, or are they something you got from a manufacturer? Do your UCAs have uniballs? You mentioned you can't have ball joints. Is that because of the limited range of motion on a ball joint?
 
I think your solution is great, and by dropping the LCA like you did you only threw in one new variable for suspension travel which was the longer UCA. I agree fabbing a new knuckle would have been a whole new endeavor. Cool to see that going with the longer UCA you were able to get acceptable suspension travel/arc. Did you make those UCAs, or are they something you got from a manufacturer? Do your UCAs have uniballs? You mentioned you can't have ball joints. Is that because of the limited range of motion on a ball joint?
I modified total chaos uppers with uniball, I had to mill a chromoly insert that would add 2” of length.

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Nice! Did you bevel both sides of the UCA where you cut it, or just your insert? I assume you just did that to get more weld in there?

I'd love to see more detailed pics of the LCA off the truck. Interested to know how you designed and fabricated it. This is so cool!!!
 

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