100 Series Knocking from front diff (1 Viewer)

[BendLC]

This vehicle is a 2005 with 267K miles and a recently installed (1 year) 2" OME lift . I am getting a repeating knock that sounds like it's tied to wheel rotation at start of driving with some vibration and can feel it in floorboard when applying gas at higher speeds. My mechanic has replaced the CV joints, CV axles, replaced front diff with a less used one from an IH8Mud member and installed a diff drop. Seller assured me no problems with the diff and the sound was prevalent prior to replacing the diff. My mechanic told me it needed to be replaced.

My mechanic after investing their own $ in identifying and replacing parts, because I had spent $$$ chasing this problem down came to the conclusion that they didn't know the problem and cut it loose. I've tried a second mechanic who thought it was CV axle related, has come to the similar conclusion that it's something in the differential. I've had the OME lift checked and it looks good. Wheels balanced and rotated. However, as stated, the sound was there prior to replacing the diff and continued afterwards. Any fellow members out there with this similar issue? Entire front end rebuilt with several new axles, joints, bearings, diff, etc and my mechanics can't identify the problem. This all started when crossing over train tracks and the front end became loud and knocking but much worse than current condition. I'm in Bend, OR if anyone has a referral to a terrific mechanic and advice on what to check for. Thx!

 

[Biga27110]

Good luck, I'm sure a competent land cruiser specialist can find your problem.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Might want to unload the T-bars and check the lower control arms real well, because of the spring tension any problems in the lower control arms can be hard to find but if you unload the tension and then inspect you may find some slop. Just a guess..

 

[2001LC]

I'll assume the new front driver shafts (AKA CV) are OEM and new OEM hub flanges and cones washer were installed with them. Differential bushings good or new. And you've check LCA bushing and all ball joint as Andy suggested. That you've been concentrating on front.

But based on symptoms, it sounds a bit a common cluck form not lubing the 6 grease zerks ever 5K miles. This very common knock or also referred to as cluck thunk is propeller shaft (AHA drive shaft). Vibration during acceleration may be spider joints (AKA U-Joints). Failure to lube propeller shaft slide yokes and spiders can cause both of these.

The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

My thunk has gotten to the point where I will spare no expense and go to the ends of the earth to fix. Re-greasing was making it better, but not completely solving it. However the rear was re-greased about two months ago and now it is thunking worse than ever. About 18 months ago I had the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Try this, accelerating and driving at 20 30 40 50 60 mph whatever. Let of gas pedal then accelerate again and repeat a few times. If it clunks that is a sign of propeller shafts have not been lubed. If they've not been lubed it's likely the spiders haven't either. A spider bad enough to vibrate, will usually be easy to find, as they will have play.

 

[nukegoat]

You said tied to wheel speed... But does it clunk once per wheel rotation or 4x? Or 8x?

 

[MobileBasecamp]

wanted to revive this thread- recently bought an 05 LC with 140k miles on it. The CV boots were shredded so I took it to my local mechanic who replaced with aftermarket (not OEM) “heavy duty” axles assemblies. Now I’m hearing the sound in the video which I’m thinking is coming from the CVs but not sure. Usually only happens on hard turns, at low speeds, or going up hill at low speeds. The clanking is with the wheel rotation and eventually goes away. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

[Biga27110]

take it back to mechanic

 

[2001LC]

For sure, take back as @Biga27110 said!

But I'd first see if both ends of axle are secured by their snap ring. By getting under the front and grab the inner & outer CV (tulip) and pull outward and pushing in. Inner should move in and out of differential, no more than about 5mm. Outer CV, should not move away from steering knuckle enough to perceive (max 0.20mm).

Here's example of excessive in and out movement of axle at steering knuckle. This is due to excessive hub flange gap. Your mechanic may have forgotten the hub flange snap ring. Or the inner snap ring may not be seated or missing.


This is proper gap of inner axle to differential tube on DS.

As so check to see if and plastic shielding in wheel well is rubbing tire.

 

[MobileBasecamp]

@2001LC thanks for the info! I checked and we have about 5mm of play, maybe slightly more. There was back and forth play but also a little side to side- is that normal? There wasn’t any movement of the axle at the steering knuckle like in the video. Also, checked for rubbing and maybe just a tad on the UCA but that’s it. Attaching some pictures of the axle below. Wonder if I could also benefit from a diff drop because of the angle on the axle, though I guess that’s besides the point of my current problem.

 

[2001LC]

In and out movement of the inner CV only, is normal. Not sure what back and forth is, unless you mean in and out of inner CV. You should not have any side to side play. If pictures are with weight on tires. Yes do a diff drop ASAP.

This grease indicates boot clamp loose. Grease should not be there. Seems a lot of grease came out. The outer CV may be bad.

 

[MobileBasecamp]

@2001LC thanks! Yeah i was thinking the same thing about the grease. Our mechanic was going to call them defective and replace them for free, but after reading a bunch of other forums we asked him to replace with OEM axles which are $$$ but hope it's worth it. The view you see is with the car jacked up and wheel off, but still need that diff drop. Will let you know what happens on Monday with the new CVs.

 

[2001LC]

We've been getting new OEM front drive shaft for $405 plus shipping, this year. Was $355 last years. Search online, for Dealerships with the Deals. One Toyota Dealership was out of SoCA, listing parts on ebay!

 

[2001LC]

BTW: I also replace Hub Flange and its Snap ring with new FDS. Also the differential side seal. All OEM.

 

[2001LC]

duplicate

 

[MobileBasecamp]

@2001LC Great feedback, will let you know how this all shapes up.

 

[MobileBasecamp]

@2001LC Just a follow up, we replaced with OEM and so far so good, knock is gone. It's funny, never actually felt it drive this smooth so think those aftermarket axles we got were really lemons. Either way thanks for the help and glad we got it resolved, hate having car issues, especially with CVs since we've been stuck in the middle of nowhere Mexico with busted CVs! Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Glade I could help!