100 series brakes

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This is NOT true "Toyota doesn't make brake pads or rotors. They provide a specification to a supplier, and the supplier then either makes them themselves, or gets them from yet another supplier. Whether that's higher quality than what that supplier sells themselves is hard to say."

Toyota makes their own parts and their specification and tolarance is 100%. They make their rotors, and pads are made by Sumitomo. No part maker in the world can make a part to match or exceed the quality of a part made by toyota.

All my toy's still have factory alternators (new brushkit installed), factory starters (with new contacts), factory AC compressors (no freon leaks!) all wheel bearings (except hilux and 4R rears). So much to list. All are above 220K miles. find anyother car maker that has this same quality and consistancy.

Just for clarity, you believe that Toyota, an automotive OEM, owns a foundry where they melt their own materials to cast into rotors for their entire range of vehicles. Then somewhere else, they own a different factory where they build all the various pieces that go into an alternator. And for washer fluid pumps. And pistons. And a farm with cows for their own Toyota leather.

Toyota, just like every other vehicle manufacturer in the world, does not make the vast majority of their parts. They have higher standards on their suppliers than many other OEMs but they use the same tier 1 suppliers as every other car company. Delphi, Centric, Akebono, and many others, are called tier 1 suppliers or integrators, and they generally supply systems, such as infotainment or braking/ABS. After that, you get tier 2 folks, that supply specific pieces of systems, such as calipers, bearings, screens, and switches.

It makes absolutely zero sense for a top level manufacturer to try and be a generalist - a company that specializes specifically in certain things is more efficient and more profitable. Today's supply chain issues wouldn't be nearly so bad if all the parts were manufactured in house - but they're not, and when you can't get parts from location A to location B to build something, welcome to 2021.

I'm amazed by how many people out there believe that their OEM makes the best stuff in the world and no one else can touch them. Feel free to visit any BMW forum to see your words parroted back, but talking about BMWs instead of Toyotas.
 
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ddub

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Is there a shortage of OEM brake parts currently? I ordered OEM rotors and pads from McGeorge on Monday and they just refunded the entire transaction today without an explanation..

Can anyone suggest another source? My local dealer is way overpriced!

Thanks
 

Battleship

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Is there a shortage of OEM brake parts currently? I ordered OEM rotors and pads from McGeorge on Monday and they just refunded the entire transaction today without an explanation..

Can anyone suggest another source? My local dealer is way overpriced!

Thanks
Bell Lexus Parts, Olathe Toyota, I've bought brake parts from @cruiseroutfit at cruiserteq
 
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Bell Lexus Parts, Olathe Toyota, I've bought brake parts from @cruiseroutfit at cruiserteq
I order from Bell Lexus a lot since they're right up the street from me. Let me tell you though, the online prices are WAY different than if you walk up to the parts counter. I just order online and pick up in person.
 

hoser

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Just for clarity, you believe that Toyota, an automotive OEM, owns a foundry where they melt their own materials to cast into rotors for their entire range of vehicles. Then somewhere else, they own a different factory where they build all the various pieces that go into an alternator. And for washer fluid pumps. And pistons. And a farm with cows for their own Toyota leather.

Toyota, just like every other vehicle manufacturer in the world, does not make the vast majority of their parts. They have higher standards on their suppliers than many other OEMs but they use the same tier 1 suppliers as every other car company. Delphi, Centric, Akebono, and many others, are called tier 1 suppliers or integrators,

For Land Cruisers, I believe the rotor supplier is Aisin/Advics which Toyota owns 30%. Same with Denso.
 
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Is there a shortage of OEM brake parts currently? I ordered OEM rotors and pads from McGeorge on Monday and they just refunded the entire transaction today without an explanation..

Can anyone suggest another source? My local dealer is way overpriced!

Thanks
Try Sparks and/or Camelback Toyota - both have had good pricing in the past and shipped quickly. Never had an issue with McGeorge before, but I ordered some Toyota parts in the last month and have noticed things have been taking longer for shipping confirmations than before.

Have you tried price matching your dealer? Some of them do, some of them don't. The whole Toyota Parts racket is an odd one.
 

ddub

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Thanks guys.. I didn't intend to hijack this thread. Got the parts from Olathe today.
 
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Go OEM!

Powerstop is trash. I've never warped a set of rotors in my life and the PS rotors warped in less than 5k miles. Went OEM and have had no issues since.
Powerstop slotted/drilled or their standard garbage line?

I have had the opposite experience on 2 of my 80's and my ifs 100 with their drilled/slotted rotors. New OEM rotors and pads for the 80's sucked and wore quickly, even with 100 series pads up front. power stop rotors and z36 pads made a huge difference and did not warp like the OEM rotors did. The pads bite harder and pedal effort was greatly reduced. At 40k miles the rotors still looked great, pads were about 60%.

My 100 was fine on OEM, but I had an extra z36 setup and they made a nice improvement. Plus, they don't rust like non zinc coated rotors.

I will probably will go with DBA rotors from now on, I have them on my solid axle 100 and they are nicer than any others I have installed.

Good dot 4 fluid makes a big difference as well.
 
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Powerstop slotted/drilled or their standard garbage line?

I have had the opposite experience on 2 of my 80's and my ifs 100 with their drilled/slotted rotors. New OEM rotors and pads for the 80's sucked and wore quickly, even with 100 series pads up front. power stop rotors and z36 pads made a huge difference and did not warp like the OEM rotors did. The pads bite harder and pedal effort was greatly reduced. At 40k miles the rotors still looked great, pads were about 60%.

My 100 was fine on OEM, but I had an extra z36 setup and they made a nice improvement. Plus, they don't rust like non zinc coated rotors.

I will probably will go with DBA rotors from now on, I have them on my solid axle 100 and they are nicer than any others I have installed.

Good dot 4 fluid makes a big difference as well.

The drilled/slotted ones are what I had and I would not recommend them based on my experience. They felt like they had good initial bite but that's more of a function of the pad than the rotor. I have no complaints with the OEM pads/rotors even while towing.
 
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The drilled/slotted ones are what I had and I would not recommend them based on my experience. They felt like they had good initial bite but that's more of a function of the pad than the rotor. I have no complaints with the OEM pads/rotors even while towing.

Interesting. Slee used to sell them years back, but switched over to dba due to some customer complaints. not sure if that was 80 or 100 series.

I put them on my wife's v8 4runner as well, which tows our travel trailer and have nothing but good things to say. At the price point they definitely wont be DBA quality, but I like them more than OEM. Huge improvement on her 4runner, but I also went to a bigger rotor and put new calipers on at the same time, so not a fair comparison.

For some reason the toyota dealership installed bosch rotors and pads on her 4runner before we bought it, those were terrible and more expensive than OEM. I could not get abs to engage with both feet on the pedal. Now they feel just like my 80 and 100.
 
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Toyota doesn't make brake pads or rotors. Generally OEM parts are AT LEAST as good as what you can get in the aftermarket, for a significant increase in price....
If you need cross-drilled or slotted rotors for anything other than looks, you're probably driving the wrong vehicle (not knocking it, they look really nice!). Most of the cross-drilled and slotted rotors out there start out as blanks from centric or other brake manufacturers, then are re-worked by the next vendor.

Side note....you really don't want cross drilled rotors if you're building up a lot of heat in your brakes. These were brand new before we started Daytona in our 165hp racecar:
Truth in the first statement. Spoke to a Centric Sales Rep, they basically provide blanks for Brembo as well as several other manufacturers. Personally, sell 105 (pads) and 320 (GCX partial coated rotors) numbers to my customers.

Most people don't realize cross drilling is to reduce weight when going to larger rotors. They actually decrease braking performance due to loss of swept area and are very prone to cracking from stress risers caused by the cross drilling. Porsche got around the cross drilling cracking by molding them, part of the push for their PCB brakes. The slots I can say may help when towing down hill on large grades, as those are designed to remove boundary layer gasses. Although debatable, if they are necessity on a LC or LX. I er on the side of it being a waste of money.

For my modded 90 300zx TT, I just went with Wilwood slotted big brake kit. There it made a difference.
 
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Hey guys, rather than make a new post any chance I can get a part number for a 2005 100 series GXL V8? My mechanic has some options and isn't sure which is needed. They are DR788 and DR789 and also DB13834WD and DB12004WD. Do these mean anything to anyone? Haha
 

suprarx7nut

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Toyota doesn't make brake pads or rotors. They provide a specification to a supplier, and the supplier then either makes them themselves, or gets them from yet another supplier. Whether that's higher quality than what that supplier sells themselves is hard to say. Generally OEM parts are AT LEAST as good as what you can get in the aftermarket, for a significant increase in price.

If your brakes are dragging enough to impact your mileage, something is wrong with your brake system (sticky caliper or master cylinder), or you have the most insanely warped rotors I've ever heard of.



These aren't super-high-performance trucks. Plain rotors and some nice ceramic pads from Akebono, EBC, or Centric will work fine. I've had centrics on my LX for the last 40k miles. If you need cross-drilled or slotted rotors for anything other than looks, you're probably driving the wrong vehicle (not knocking it, they look really nice!). Most of the cross-drilled and slotted rotors out there start out as blanks from centric or other brake manufacturers, then are re-worked by the next vendor.

Side note....you really don't want cross drilled rotors if you're building up a lot of heat in your brakes. These were brand new before we started Daytona in our 165hp racecar:
View attachment 2841485
I had a 91 MR2 years back that came with drilled rotors. They cracked exactly like that. I recall the difference in "good" drilled rotors and rotors that crack like that has to do with when they are drilled. I believe it needs to be before some metallurgical event that the rotors undergo during manufacture. The "high end" drilled rotors you see on OEM cars are *way* more expensive than the cheap drilled stuff, and that's a part of why.
 
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I had a 91 MR2 years back that came with drilled rotors. They cracked exactly like that. I recall the difference in "good" drilled rotors and rotors that crack like that has to do with when they are drilled. I believe it needs to be before some metallurgical event that the rotors undergo during manufacture. The "high end" drilled rotors you see on OEM cars are *way* more expensive than the cheap drilled stuff, and that's a part of why.

That definitely makes sense. I was surprised to see so many higher end sports cars come with cross-drilled rotors and how much they cost (~275$ each on my M3). I would imagine you're correct that they either cast them in or re-heat-treat them after drilling to remove the stress that drilling introduces.

I generally stick to plain rotors, or slotted on sports cars if available.
 
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Kind of a side question but I recently tracked down a squealing noise to this broken spring. Do I have to pull the rotor/caliper to replace this piece? And if it's broken, should I just replace the front pads? They still seem thickish, but they have 36,000 miles on them (OEM dealer replaced by PO).

1661136869168.png
 

Formerjeeper

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To replace that spring:

1. remove the side spring that runs vertically between the two horizontal slider pins
2. remove the bottom slider pin to free the spring you referenced
3. replace broken spring, replace bottom slider pin, replace vertical spring

Probably 10 minutes max including jacking and wheel removal
 
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To replace that spring:

1. remove the side spring that runs vertically between the two horizontal slider pins
2. remove the bottom slider pin to free the spring you referenced
3. replace broken spring, replace bottom slider pin, replace vertical spring

Probably 10 minutes max including jacking and wheel removal
Nice. Thanks for the tips!
 

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