100 Series Brake Pads

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C-Dan,
I stopped by the local dealer yesterday, while looking @ the front pads for the 100 series. I saw to different sets. The only difference apears to be the type of material.
Which type are you running in your rig? (I'm checking for previous posts)
Also, when I R/R the belts I damaged the 14mm locking nut on the AC tensioner pulley (twelve pt sockets suck) do you by chance have a part # other than the pulley assembly?

Thanks
Eduardo
 

cruiserdan

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I'm running 04465-60151. There is also an 04465-60190. the latter is used for '02 up. The 60151 is made by NBK, the 60190 by Sumitomo. The cailpers and shims are also different. I do not know what the difference(s) is/are. I am pleased with the 04465-60151's on my vehicle. If you go to 100 pads you will need new rotors or have the existing ones re-surfaced.

Ya gotta buy the pulley to get the nut (88440-26090 $27.23)
 
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C-Dan,
The 04465-60151, was my choice of the two. It seemed to be the less aggresive of the two.
Is the resurface of the rotors a must? Will I be more likely to warp them? I am currently running the cross drilled rotors with Autozone high performance pads.
No real bad complaints with this setup, other than the usual, annoying squeal and not as smoth stops after the pads are @ about half worn?
I'm sure my driving habits are a bit to blame :G
Eduardo
 
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I see, says the blind man!! Now I see why ! :stupid:
humm?? maybe I'll just run the same pads I'm running for now,and save the 100 series pads for when I have the time to R/R the rotors and resurface them.
Thanks again.
Eduardo :beer:
 
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Dan, I still have some pulsing in my peddle after changing front pads and rotors. I do not think I have done anything to warp them. They seem to have gotten worse since putting them on.

I think some is coming from rear as when I pull my park brake at 10-15 mph, it pulses a little.

Should I have the rear rotors turned? The pads are good, per my mechanic.
 
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Teencrusher,
For some reason, I seem to notice "the pulsating" brake action when the pads,( front or rear) are @ 50% or less ??
???
 

cruiserdan

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Tenn,

If you feel a pulse in the ebrake lever at least some if not all of what you are feeling is coming from the rear. A good machinist can turn them. They are a bit odd to fit on the arbor so it is nice to find somebody who knows whats up.
I don't know what to make of "used" pads on a new rotor surface. Any body else??? You may want to consider new rotors and pads and then forget about it for a while to come.
 
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I have the pads that you sent with the others. I will probably have the rotors turned and have the pads put on. My mech checked them when he put on the front and he said they were good.....nice to have an honest guy working on your truck.
 
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C-Dan,
When I installed the cross drilled rotors, I tried the "used pads" (no pun intended) &nbsp:Didn't work well @ all, had to go get a new set.
 

Photoman

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Used pads on a new or turned rotor are not a good idea. Many times the rotor has grooves in it that are duplicated in the pads. By putting the used pads on for a while you are just hitting on the "bumps" which not only can affect braking but start to put grooves in the new rotor. If the pads are in good shape, (thick) what I have done is put a piece on sandpaper on a block of steel or wood and rubs the shoes down flat. The operative word here is flat. Don't sand a taper on the shoes.
Bill
 
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??? ???
Just wundering?? How the e-brake, would be a factor in the vibrations? are they not two different braking systems?
one the rotor/pads and the other a drum with brake shoes? :givemebeer: :givemebeer: It's Friday!!
 

cruiserdan

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Valid point.

the rear rotors do two things. they are in essence a rotor and a drum. So, the service brakes are "disc" and the parking brake is drum. That being said, if the parking brake application produces a pulsation in the lever, it could also affect the "disc" portion of the rotor.
 

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