100 series brake pads on an 80 (1 Viewer)

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Ok, so here is my question. When I first bought Beast Mode a few years ago, It had some standard pads on it. While doing some baselining, I rebuilt the front axle , replaced the front rotors and, thinking my self rather cleaver, I decided to get the 100 series pads to put on the front. (Bigger is always better, right?) Well, I don't quite know if that's a good idea, but I am not sure I am barking up the right tree. Here is my issue:

Cold weather. Like below 40 f.
Go to Beast Mode and start driving.
Go to apply brakes. Pedal is very firm and doesn't go down for perhaps 0.75 seconds. During this time, I can feel the brakes are engaging, but very lightly.
Finally my foot sinks down and beast mode starts to slow down like you would expect.
It seems like if I do it again just a few moments later, or very lightly hold on the brakes, they engage as you would expect the next time they are pushed.

Sidenote: Overall, the brakes work ok, though even if I push really hard, it is difficult to lock it up at any speed on dry concrete.


What other brake things have I done?
I replaced the little valve on the brake booster vacuum line. No difference
I adjusted the piston on the brake booster. No difference
I have bleed the brakes, and the proportional valve ( I think. It has been a while)
I have certainly cycled the ABS many times on snow and Ice, so I don't think its the ABS.

Would 100 series brake pads be giving me this problem? I could certainly replace with 80 series pads, but I just don't know if that would fix anything.
I suppose I could throw my spare brake booster on there. I donno.

Help us ih8mud, you're our only hope.
 
Check your wheel bearing adjustment.
When did you last replace the brake hoses?
It would indicate to me that you either have a caliper hanging or a hose that is not allowing fluid in from one direction for a period of time.

Have you noticed it pulling one direction or another?

Is your LSPV adjusted properly or is it causing brakes to not actuate well in the rear due to the valve sticking or it is set to keep pressure all the time?

No hot brakes?
 
I tried the "100 series front pads fad" and had braking issues so went back to 80 pads....the 100's are just to big and wear wrong on rotor because of partial pad hang-over.

Your's sound like it has issues beyond pads though....
 
I have run 100 pads for years with no issues
 
I have run 100 pads for years with no issues

Same here, they have caused me no issues. They don't work 'better' than 80 series pads..but they do last longer.
 
Same here, they have caused me no issues. They don't work 'better' than 80 series pads..but they do last longer.
+2
EBC Green 100 series pads up front with the a union to replace the LSPV and EBC Green 80 series pads in the rear. The LSPV removal sends more power to the rear pads which causes faster wear but much improved braking performance.
 
Check your wheel bearing adjustment.
When did you last replace the brake hoses?
It would indicate to me that you either have a caliper hanging or a hose that is not allowing fluid in from one direction for a period of time.

Have you noticed it pulling one direction or another?

Is your LSPV adjusted properly or is it causing brakes to not actuate well in the rear due to the valve sticking or it is set to keep pressure all the time?

No hot brakes?
How would wheel bearing adjustment effect the braking? I will check on the pulling, but it's certainly isn't clearly apparent. I may need to look into the LSPV a bit more in depth.

I should explain the symptoms a little bit more. When I feel the brakes engage, it almost seem like at first, there isn't any boost to the brake at all, no matter how hard I push. After a second though, the pedal gets softer, and travels/fully engages, slows the vehicle down.
I am wondering if the booster is toast. But why would it work better after a second delay and not just fail all together?
 
+2
EBC Green 100 series pads up front with the a union to replace the LSPV and EBC Green 80 series pads in the rear. The LSPV removal sends more power to the rear pads which causes faster wear but much improved braking performance.
Where do you buy such a union?
 
Where do you buy such a union?
Advanced auto.

The better question is where do you buy the brake line plug for the sense line for the LSPV. You don't or at least I couldn't find them. There are three lines going into the LSPV: a supply line and a sense line from the master cylinder, and the supply line going out to the rear brakes. The sense line is only there in case the front brakes fail. All pressure would be sent to the rear brakes via the LSPV. I don't know if this is common but I removed the LSPV and installed a union between the master cylinder supply line and the rear brakes. I made two or three plugs out of the fittings from the sense line and installed one plug underneath the master cylinder where the sense line used to be.
 
A firm pedal is indicative of a failed brake booster or vacuum leak in the line going to the brake booster.

The things being suggested by others would cause a soft pedal.
 
I think I'm going to replace the matter cylinder. I have an extra from my parts car. I will need to look it up to see if there is a walk though ( and use my fsm) I'll let y'all know if that does it.
 
Have experienced similar symptoms when I had my brake booster going out, the vacuum would come and go in ways that didn't really make sense to me. The first thing I tried was replacing the check valve on the outside of the booster (cheap and quick) but ended up replacing the whole booster when that didn't fix things.
 
I think I'm going to replace the matter cylinder. I have an extra from my parts car. I will need to look it up to see if there is a walk though ( and use my fsm) I'll let y'all know if that does it.

Why would you just start replacing things without any sort of diagnosis? If you have a parts truck, I would start with a brake booster or at the very least check the vacuum line to the brake booster for cracks before doing anything that invasive.
 
Why would you just start replacing things without any sort of diagnosis? If you have a parts truck, I would start with a brake booster or at the very least check the vacuum line to the brake booster for cracks before doing anything that invasive.
I agree that replacing is not diagnosing. Yes no vacum off intake no booster.
The factory manual has a very good discription of diagonsis for all the parts of brake system.
Never tried the 100 pads do know that the brakes are a little undersized. Almost 2-3 for front to the back.
Daughter now drives and has to put up with many repairs.
Most recently " Brake Booster" After 23 or more years it is the rubber that is wearing out on these vehicle.
Installed new Booster and a world of difference after diagnosing.
 
Plenty in Australia starting to do upgraded brake boosters

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It was, you guessed it drum roll....................................... The brake booster. At least I think so. I have to wait for a really cold morning to test it out for real. Tomorrow might due. I never could really slow down fast enough to notice a sticky caliper, but now I am so boosted I can't wait to see what my next project is. Much props to youtuber OTRAMM for his video. Took me maybe a half hour. Here's the video:
 
Honestly, the scariest part was pushing the MC out of the way, bending the tubes until it was not blocking it. Save a brake bleed.
 
Glad to hear and see things worked out for you. Stopping these Cruisers is something to always be aware of.
The post about booster is interesting, regarding improving braking performance.
 
I did the fzj100 brake pads on my LX450 and the brakes work better then before. I stop better with less input. No issues yet.
 
I did the fzj100 brake pads on my LX450 and the brakes work better then before. I stop better with less input. No issues yet.


Mind seemed to work fine as well, like the 80 pads...but wait till they start wearing, that's where my problem started...
 

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