100 Series Adjustable Pan-Hard on sale at Slee (1 Viewer)

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Spresso,
Thanks for the response, very good info indeed. I look forward to seeing how your modified UCA's turn out. I haven't experienced any driveline vibes with my 863's, but I've never liked the way the springs sit on their perches compared to stock. That sounds like a nice way to correct both of those issues at once. So, do you cut up a pair of Slee UCA's or does Christo sell just the adjuster/center section ready to weld in?

I bought a pair of used UCAs ($75) and cut them in half to determine the ID. Ben at Slee confirmed the ID is indeed the same for 80-series UCAs. I have ordered just the weld in adjusters from Slee...they've been shipped. You can also, AFAIK, use the complete 80-series upper adjustable arms but I believe the mounting bolts are larger diameter on the 80...not a big deal I imagine it would involve just a little die grinder work.

My issues really started with the 4.88 conversion. As other rig (more commonly done in the 80, 60, 40, etc. model world) owners that have changed gearing will attest to, changing the driveline speed can sometimes, even in mirrored rigs, induce vibrations on some rigs. And lifting just seems to magnify the issue on some rigs (like mine). It is as much an art as it is a science: Ask any astute driveline expert. Mind you my vibe is not what I would label as serious...its just I know its there and it kinda bugs me...like an unsolved puzzle I guess...albeit a potentially expensive puzzle ;). Christo relayed to me they can do the same suspension and gear mod on two like rigs...and one will run smooth and the other will have a vibe. And likewise there isn't a consistent fix for this...

But there are also secondary benefits...handling...to getting these parts installed. I'll report back on my findings when its all done and said.
 
Don't be a goober like me.

Make sure you install the threaded section either in the front or the back on each arm. I didn't and I had to turn the adjusters opposite directions when adjusting the pinion angle. That got old real quick, so I had to take one back off and spin it around so that they adjust the same direction.:hillbilly:

Jack
 
Don't be a goober like me.

Make sure you install the threaded section either in the front or the back on each arm. I didn't and I had to turn the adjusters opposite directions when adjusting the pinion angle. That got old real quick, so I had to take one back off and spin it around so that they adjust the same direction.:hillbilly:

Jack

Thanks Jack...I probably would have done the same...I appreciate the 'short-cut' tip!
 
vibrations on some rigs. And lifting just seems to magnify the issue on some rigs (like mine). It is as much an art as it is a science: Ask any astute driveline expert. Mind you my vibe is not what I would label as serious

Wow, had no idea. The upper arms might help then.
 
Not asking you to. :) You can put 6" Slee's on if ya want. I just can't picture the rake of the truck.


Besides you who said anything about rake?
 
I would think 4" in back and 2 3/4" in front would look funny. The 80-guys always seem to try to level them. A lttiel rake doesn't bother me. I just can't picture a UZJ with 4" up in back.

I never stated I have 2.75" lift in front...there you go assuming again :rolleyes:.
 
Wow.....how much front lift do you have?


See...now that's how you should approach these things John ;)...

A little over 3" (the Fox shocks allowed me to increase the front end height a little while still gaining droop over the OME set-up). Not much more but enough to make a difference.
 
I think I will just camp out at Spressos house with my rig when it comes time to do all the suspension :D
 
I think I will just camp out at Spressos house with my rig when it comes time to do all the suspension :D


Better yet just take it to Slee...he's the professional for all this stuff :).
 
Wow that would cost a bunch..... to drive it there, pay for the stuff, pay for labor..... nah.
 
The best way I found to adjust the Panhard rods, is to use a string line with a small weight (plum line) hang it over the guard at the center of the wheel... Messure the string to the axle cap, adjust till you are happy with the diff centered to the car.....
Keep all tyres at the same PSI and do it on a level pad.. It worked for me when i installed my lift... And yea the panel are straight...:)

Cheers fishy:cool:
 
How do I measure, knowing how much offset my rear axle is from 3" lift? Just the side of rear tires versus the fender?

Regards,

Snook I think I would use the outside edges of the frame as a reference.
 
Locrwln measured, using a carpenter's square, the distance from the outer tire (sidewall) surface to the frame rail...

I received my upper control arm adjusters and the pan-hard from Slee yesterday. I cut and welded the UCAs last night into the spare UPAs I had. So tomorrow I'll report back on the install. Another way to measure the position of the rear axle I read would be to drop a plumb line from the body center...we'll see.
 
From the subject line, I thought this post was somehow related to erections.
 

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