100 Series Adjustable Pan-Hard on sale at Slee

spressomon

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Just an FYI if anyone has a 3-4" lift on the rear of your 100 Slee has the adjustable pan-hard on sale right now. Just ordered one.


And for the same group of 100 owners (3-4" rear lifted): The 80-series and 100-series upper control arm tubes are the same ID so you can convert your 100-series UCAs to adjustable by sectioning and welding in Slee's 80-series upper control arm adjusters. Ordered those also...
 
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Thanks for the heads-up, Spresso.

In the interest of "tech", and for those of us not as vertically advanced as you, what does all that gadgetry get you once it's installed? :rolleyes:
 
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Just an FYI if anyone has a 3-4" lift on the rear of your 100 Slee has the adjustable pan-hard on sale right now. Just ordered one.


And for the same group of 100 owners (3-4" rear lifted): The 80-series and 100-series upper control arm tubes are the same ID so you can convert your 100-series UCAs to adjustable by sectioning and welding in Slee's 80-series upper control arm adjusters. Ordered those also...

Are you having driveline issues? Just wondering why the adjustable UCA's are needed. I've been running 863's for a while now and was surprised that I didn't encounter any driveline vibrations on my 100. I was wondering if you were experiencing that or is there another reason I'm missing?

btw, thanks for the head's up on the sale prices
 
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Thanks for the heads-up, Spresso.

In the interest of "tech", and for those of us not as vertically advanced as you, what does all that gadgetry get you once it's installed? :rolleyes:

As you lift the truck the rear axle moves slightly to the PS, just due to the suspension geometry. So, an adjustable panhard pulls the axle back under the center of the truck.
 
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How do I measure, knowing how much offset my rear axle is from 3" lift? Just the side of rear tires versus the fender?

Regards,
 

e9999

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How do I measure, knowing how much offset my rear axle is from 3" lift? Just the side of rear tires versus the fender?

Regards,


that would depend on how straight your fenders are... :D
 
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Just an FYI if anyone has a 3-4" lift on the rear of your 100 Slee has the adjustable pan-hard on sale right now. Just ordered one.


And for the same group of 100 owners (3-4" rear lifted): The 80-series and 100-series upper control arm tubes are the same ID so you can convert your 100-series UCAs to adjustable by sectioning and welding in Slee's 80-series upper control arm adjusters. Ordered those also...

Ooooh, more projects.:cool:

Hopefully it will cure to few little problems you are having.

Jack
 

spressomon

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Thanks for the heads-up, Spresso.

In the interest of "tech", and for those of us not as vertically advanced as you, what does all that gadgetry get you once it's installed? :rolleyes:

This really only should apply to those running ~4" rear lift (2-3" lifts need not be concerned most likely). I am running 864 springs in the back. Consequently, since the pan hard rod has not been extended, the axle housing assembly has been shifted to the driver's side relative to the frame rails. The PS tire rubs my frame rail but not on the DS side. I am hoping by returning adjusting the pan-hard length, pan-hard pivot point and shortening the UCAs the axle will return to a near stock like alignment. Keep in mind with the relatively short lower control arms it will never be stock like with 4"+ lift. But hopefully it will be better!

I will probably also craft a bracket extension for the DS side pan-hard mount so that the pan-hard rod remains in near stock position relative to the axle housing. Post lift the pan hard rod is raised on the PS side. Since it travels in an arc it already has a "head start" when the suspension moves. I notice the rear end now seems to really fight itself (DS to PS sides) when going over speed bumps, etc. And it is magnified when pulling my trailer. I spoke to Christo at length about this and since I have not made corrections to either the pan-hard and the UCA's what I am feeling has been validated.

Greg B: Yes since lifting and installing the 4.88's I have a slight driveline vibe. Beyond that I want to get the pinion angle back down to stock (parallel to the t-case output flange)...hopefully reducing or eliminating the vibe #1 and also getting the spring perches back to stock placement.

As soon as I get these installed I'll report back on the overall affect.
 

spressomon

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Anybody have an opinion of a panhard drop bracket versus lengthening the panhard?


On 4"+ lift there is an argument for doing both. I am going to start with the easiest (relative) by adding the adjustable pan-hard. If I need to change the pan-hard pivot on the DS side to bring the pan-hard back down parallel or closer to parallel to the axle housing (stock like) then that'll be the last mod for the pan-hard.
 
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4 to 4+ inches lift. :confused:

That must look funny considering the front max is 2.75". Can't picture a 100 with 4 or 4+ inches in the rear. :confused:

I can't imagine the need for a rear panhard adjuster or upper arms on US UZJ100 models. :confused:

What we need are some lower control arms and the non-tube type. Rectangular steel will do the trick. :)
 

spressomon

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4 to 4+ inches lift. :confused:

That must look funny considering the front max is 2.75". Can't picture a 100 with 4 or 4+ inches in the rear. :confused:

I can't imagine the need for a rear panhard adjuster or upper arms on US UZJ100 models. :confused:

What we need are some lower control arms and the non-tube type. Rectangular steel will do the trick. :)


I don't have to imagine it :flipoff2:
 
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Greg B: Yes since lifting and installing the 4.88's I have a slight driveline vibe. Beyond that I want to get the pinion angle back down to stock (parallel to the t-case output flange)...hopefully reducing or eliminating the vibe #1 and also getting the spring perches back to stock placement.

As soon as I get these installed I'll report back on the overall affect.

Spresso,
Thanks for the response, very good info indeed. I look forward to seeing how your modified UCA's turn out. I haven't experienced any driveline vibes with my 863's, but I've never liked the way the springs sit on their perches compared to stock. That sounds like a nice way to correct both of those issues at once. So, do you cut up a pair of Slee UCA's or does Christo sell just the adjuster/center section ready to weld in?
 

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