10/'79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[mrldcty]

I felt like I was docking a capsule to the space station. The last 1/2" would not engage easily; I had my wife hit the clutch a few times at it went right in (thanks @Pin_Head). I thought a band might play or confetti would shoot out the tail pipe. Alas the only sound was a single tear of mine hitting the cold garage floor.

LMAO! Tears of joy, turned to tears of sadness due to erroneous FIPG! This is a fabulous thread... gearing up to do some of this on my rig soon. Pics are super helpful, nice job!

 

[OhioFJ]

Filled the area around the yoke end cap with jb weld and repainted it. Seems to be airtight now.

Pressing out and installing the universal joint was a pain. I rented a tool from advanced auto that made the job easier but it isn’t a perfect solution. There isn’t a nice flat surface to set the yoke on; a shop press would be much better. Lots of bashing with a brass mallet and a socket the same size as the u joint cap to get them out.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ari , as a matter of course weather i install new JAPAN Spider Gears or i have the drive shaft shop do it , instead i Always have my Post install of new spiders Balanced

by a real nutz and boltz drive line shop , i was taught and told early on to do this step no matter what , because no matter the shaft or shafts , they always get a correction tweek of some kind


- this will Preserve your new spiders for the long term , providing you also install FULLY SYNTHIC grease in both them and the slip yolks too


- you will feel the difference i guarantee it


- the FSM fact based proof is in the step by steps the Action Figure in the FSM is measuring RUN OUT with a dial indicator .....

this = DRIVE SHAFT SHOP machine balance no matter what in the year 2021 ...........




Also , TOYOTA offers propeller shaft hard ware kits , as opposed to simply stand alone nuts bolts and soring washers if your like me and always assemble with NEW oem

hardware because well .....that's just the way i roll


the KITs Part # for your 10/79 Should be : 90105-10H00


- Below is the official @ToyotaMatt T-TEN Drive Shaft Flange Profile and Size Spec. hardware Chart system .........

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[OhioFJ]

Finally back on the road.

Adjusted the clutch per fsm at the pedal and slave.
Ended up draining out the green coolant and went with toyota red after some reading and advice.
New driveshaft bolts.

Very satisfying to have done all the work myself. Took me about 6 weeks. A sincere thanks to everyone who helped out.

Now onto refreshing the rear drum brakes.

 

[Chestcutter]

Beautiful work Ari! Thanks for all the great pictures and step by step. Your driveline is looking great. Looking forward to getting these Northeast Ohio 40's together.

 

[JMZ400]

I'll be expecting the same level of detail with photos

Now onto refreshing the rear drum brakes.

 

[OhioFJ]

I’ve decided to dive in and change the leaking manifold gasket. Already regretting it.

Can someone confirm that I have to remove the metal vacuum spaghetti piece? I think I must have to.

I tried to rotate it out of the way by loosening the bolt (yellow arrow) affixing it to the thermostat housing, and coolant began to leak out. Just remove it and quickly replace I assume?

Thanks all. Many questions to follow I’m sure.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I’ve decided to dive in and change the leaking manifold gasket. Already regretting it.

Can someone confirm that I have to remove the metal vacuum spaghetti piece? I think I must have to.

I tried to rotate it out of the way by loosening the bolt (yellow arrow) affixing it to the thermostat housing, and coolant began to leak out. Just remove it and quickly replace I assume?

Thanks all. Many questions to follow I’m sure.



View attachment 3358872View attachment 3358873

must remove

the 1978 1979 , 1981 and 1985 2F emmissions manual red FSM states to lable each system circut and you interact with it...


i use YELLOW body shop type masking tape Auri..

good to see you again my friend

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I’ve decided to dive in and change the leaking manifold gasket. Already regretting it.

Can someone confirm that I have to remove the metal vacuum spaghetti piece? I think I must have to.

I tried to rotate it out of the way by loosening the bolt (yellow arrow) affixing it to the thermostat housing, and coolant began to leak out. Just remove it and quickly replace I assume?

Thanks all. Many questions to follow I’m sure.



View attachment 3358872View attachment 3358873

must remove

the 1981 and 1986\5 2F emmissions manual red FSM states to lable each system circut and you interact with it...


i use YELLOW body shop type masking tape Auri..

good to see you again my friend

 

[OhioFJ]

Thank you Matt - yes I ended up removing that and the air rail.

Finally got a peek at the manifold. Soaked the nuts and bolts with some penetrating oil and will give it a go tomorrow.

 

[fjc-man]

You could make this job alot easier if you take the apron and fender off.

 

[erics]

I'm curious about the aftermarket sender screwed into the brass 90 halfway back on the head... I assume it is for an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge? Haven't seen that location used before.

 

[OhioFJ]

I'm curious about the aftermarket sender screwed into the brass 90 halfway back on the head... I assume it is for an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge? Haven't seen that location used before.

Yes that’s exactly right. There’s an aftermarket temp gauge in the cabin that the PO installed. Not sure why exactly as the cluster temp gauge works fine.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Yes that’s exactly right. There’s an aftermarket temp gauge in the cabin that the PO installed. Not sure why exactly as the cluster temp gauge works fine.

Ari

if you would like to scedule a brief but so dam mission critical TECH live call , i will give you the CAT;S MEOW SERMON on how i now approach this broad brush topic and in a way TOYOTA never did

this will result in a LIFE TIME issue free repair here in the END ....


a CARB FAN on a mechanicical wind up 30-60 minute TIMER that fiits like glove in any open dash swithc hole


ill tell you all the mistakes and F UPS i made over my life time of at least 15+ RODEOS here so yiu will not make 1

a reliable full service manchine shop is a requirement


if CAT's MEOW is what you desire , then CAT"S Meow is what you will end product with ....



those are facts ...

PM me

ill help you hear any way i can my friend ....



details matter here and matter do details

 

[OhioFJ]

Making progress. Got the manifold off. Eventually realized that I had to loosen the bracket holding the exhaust pipe to allow the studs on the bottom of the manifold to clear.

Between the ps pump and the firewall there is very little clearance to manipulate the manifold out of the engine bay.. getting it back it will be fun.

Luckily I experienced no screw breakage, and the manifold horns were easy to remove.

Clean up and inspection next..including figuring out some prior owner modifications (blue arrows).

 

[ToyotaMatt]

one or both EARS not being FROZEN in time RUST is amazing .....

 

[OhioFJ]

Got the intake and exhaust manifolds separated. I was surprised to find that someone had previously trimmed the butterfly flapper valve and installed a block off plate. Makes my decision to remove and plug it easier.

The two m10 bolts securing the butterfly to the shaft broke during removal. I used a dremel to trim them down and then was able to slide the shaft out. Any tips on welding these openings closed?

 

[OhioFJ]

Cleaned up the block with a brass wire brush. Noted some corrosion and pitting, I’ll plan to clean that up with some fine sandpaper.

 

[OhioFJ]

Question - for those of you that have resurfaced a manifold, how did you deal with the exhaust "horns" that rotate?

I'd think that it would be important that the entire manifold is machined as a unit.

Thanks all