10/'79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[OhioFJ]

I have read several threads discussing switching all the manifold bolts to studs.

I can not see a way in which to get the manifold on with the end studs in place. I assume that I can mount the manifold using the larger studs and then place the smaller ones in after?

Red loctite on all these?

For others, the smaller studs are 90116-10150 with locking nuts 90080-17187

Larger studs are 90116-12011, washers 90201-12051, nuts 90170-12211

 

[ToyotaMatt]

the ears at each end should rotate freely once honed out inside the main center section to BRIGHT status , and the ears sections the new TITANIUM solid ring and zig-zag-zig thin one also reside , that is basically a bearing surface and must be final polished out to BRIGHT status as well ,

now you have 2 independent rotational end ears that can be now unfolded down like opening a paper print media , bound edged story book , then folded shut to the side gasket mating face of the cylinder head , just like when you finish the last page in that story book and close the 2 outer covers together ,,,

oh , and YES , you must hand drive install BOTH new end M8 torx drive studs , in the same step by step fashion as the now outdated ideology of 12mm hex head bolts there , that can only be defined as Passe' status in the 2023 modle year .....now

so , that is the story on the How & the Why , on that story book ending approach ...

 

[OhioFJ]

Blocked off the remnants of heat riser flapper valve shaft.

Used some shoulder bolts (thanks for the tip @ToyotaMatt) and was able to weld things shut. Not my nicest welds but they seem solid. I removed the zinc coating with a vinegar soak, preheated the cast manifold and blasted away

 

[OhioFJ]

More manifold work. The holes for the EGR j-pipe studs had been stripped out. Placed 8x1.25 timeserts for a repair.

Waiting on more parts..

I think I’m going to tack weld the manifold ears in place after mounting to the head, before they go off to get resurfaced.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

More manifold work. The holes for the EGR j-pipe studs had been stripped out. Placed 8x1.25 timeserts for a repair.

View attachment 3365106View attachment 3365107View attachment 3365108View attachment 3365109

Waiting on more parts..

I think I’m going to tack weld the manifold ears in place after mounting to the head, before they go off to get resurfaced.

View attachment 3365110

impressive use of the mighty drill press approach ....


- it feels a bit strange at the moment that your not so nicest welds , are nicer than my nicest ever welds in those exact same 2 locations doing the exact same dam thing .....

 

[OhioFJ]

impressive use of the mighty drill press approach ....



curious Ari : tack weld the manifold ears in place... ?

who exactly is the place ?


.

Tack them so they can’t rotate while being refaced. I’ll grind out the tack after

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Tack them so they can’t rotate while being refaced. I’ll grind out the tack after

my lifetime loyal Machinist mr. Woody Jasper , always goes at it with the big center section of the Exhaust Manifold in tanden , after he sandwiches it to the 1 piece intake manifold above it ,,,,,


however , he must wait till that BIG first phase step by steps in complete and done all pretty perfect , before he can then take precise readings and TECH. Data Spec. measurements of those 2 big-basterdz , before he then one at a time take them 2 Ears to Plumb Level and Square as each side dictates per his various readings and such .....

tack welding 2 warped differently cast iron ears to a warped cast iron center section might lead to some verbal feedback drama that would make me personally sweat profusely in place as i was made aware of just that



i am not so sure how i could use my OEM S.S.T. # 04001-07423 below , to Tap-out some Sparky JIS thread pitches like that .. ?

kool stuff !

 

[OhioFJ]

I modified a manifold insulator plate to fit the emissions ports on my manifold.

New leather carb accelerator pump plunger and boot installed, along with a new fuel cutoff solenoid.

I noticed some fuel residue on the old insulator plate and around part of the carb - I assume it was fuel from around the old boot which had disintegrated. Tightened up those screws for good measure anyway.

Got these parts from toyotamatt and cityracer.

Manifold is off to the machine shop.

 

[OhioFJ]

I wanted to have my manifold machined however the rotating horns complicated things.

To keep everything together as a unit, I first loosely bolted the intake and exhaust manifolds together with the appropriate gaskets and block off plate, then mounted this back to the head without an exhaust gasket. I snugged it to the head then tightened the intake to the exhaust.

I then decided to tack weld the horns to keep everything from rotating. I jammed a copper shim into the joint to keep the weld material from getting in there.

Unmounted the assembly then off the the machine shop. They had it back to me the next day (Michael's Racing Engines in Macedonia, OH) - very nice guy.

I ground out the welds stabilizing the horns to allow them to rotate, after refacing the manifolds

 

[OhioFJ]

With everything flat it was time to remount. I read a ton of threads about which gasket to use - in the end I used a felpro.

The biggest hassle in getting the thing back together was having to loosen and reattach the EGR cooler, J pipe, and exhaust.

The new carb heat shield is slightly different that my old one - it sits above the intake manifold a bit and I had to make a shim of washers to make up for this difference. Also the new heat shield only has one vacuum port at the base, whereas my old one had two. I had to make up some adapter to make this work for me with some different size vacuum tubing and a union.

Remounted the carb and miles of vacuum tubing. Fired it up and things seem to be good! Almost 20 in-Hg at idle, not even fully warmed up.

On to the next project..

 

[rainingagain]

I modified a manifold insulator plate to fit the emissions ports on my manifold.

New leather carb accelerator pump plunger and boot installed, along with a new fuel cutoff solenoid.

I noticed some fuel residue on the old insulator plate and around part of the carb - I assume it was fuel from around the old boot which had disintegrated. Tightened up those screws for good measure anyway.

Got these parts from toyotamatt and cityracer.

Manifold is off to the machine shop.

View attachment 3370784View attachment 3370785View attachment 3370786View attachment 3370782View attachment 3370783

Where does this boot go? It looks new and I'm looking for something very similar.

 

[Brew40]

Carb Accelerator Pump Boot for '70 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60

Carburetor accelerator pump boot for 9/'69 to '87 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ55, FJ60.

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[OhioFJ]

Carb Accelerator Pump Boot for '70 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60

Carburetor accelerator pump boot for 9/'69 to '87 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ55, FJ60.

www.cityracerllc.com

Yes and that’s where I got it from.