TMR Customs.
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
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Mike Shull
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- Thread starter
- #42
Thank you, @mr jits , @matzell and @DangerNoodle, for the recommendations. What are you all doing for brake lines to go from side to side on the axle?
I found some weld on line holders with rubber isolators and ran hard lines from the tee to each caliper on the rear axle. Front axle was braided steel (coated) lines from frame to calipers.
Mike Shull
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- #44
Does the D60 typically not use a hardline in the steer axle? I don’t remember removing one when I rebuilt my front axle.
I don't believe so. When I was searching for some possible off-the-shelf lines, I found that all the lines that came up were one extended line for each side running frame to the axle.
I never did find an extended line that met my needs, so I had some made locally (we have a hydraulic line place in Portland that makes DOT coated/braided lines) that ran about $40 for the pair.
Mike Shull
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- #46
Thanks for the info. I used AAI Speed Equipment in Arvada, CO back in the late 90s when I did the initial build. What is the name of the place in Portland?
I have used ones from Lugnut4x4 and also have had ones made up locally.
Oil Filter Service Company. They only do FTF for brake lines.
Mike Shull
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- #49
It is back on all four wheels. I still have quite a bit of work to finish the axles and I’ll do that once I get the engine in so that I know what sort of space is left over.
If I were to do it again, and if I wanted to keep the leaf springs, I would make the Dana 60 64” wide instead of 63”. The axle sits an extra inch to the right side but I’ll fix that when I go to coils.
The old WFO cross over steering arms are for sale.
If I were to do it again, and if I wanted to keep the leaf springs, I would make the Dana 60 64” wide instead of 63”. The axle sits an extra inch to the right side but I’ll fix that when I go to coils.
The old WFO cross over steering arms are for sale.
Mike Shull
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- #50
The firewall and dashboard have been cleared and they are ready for weld, primer and paint.
Oh, and the Atlas 4 and NV4500 have been ordered. 4+ months lead time on the Atlas. The NV4500 should be ready next week.
Oh, and the Atlas 4 and NV4500 have been ordered. 4+ months lead time on the Atlas. The NV4500 should be ready next week.
Looks good Mike. Where did you end up ordering the 4500 from? Thanks again for the deal on your leftovers and for showing me the project last week!
Mike Shull
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- #52
You bet, Evan! I hope that the parts work out. I found the transmission at a local shop in Denver called Steve’s Transmission and Gear. They are rebuilding it and installing a Dodge tailhousing this week. The next time you stop by I may have it installed!
Mike Shull
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- Thread starter
- #54
Josh, it is great to see you join the conversation! Yes, this Cruiser has some family history. Check it out in 1998: 1-Ton FJ43 Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1-ton-fj43-build.1253008/post-13874732
Mike Shull
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How far back are you moving the rear axle?
Mike Shull
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- #57
16.5 inches
afraptor22
SILVER Star
Let me know if you need help modifying the LS harness. I have done a few. I usually use a pre-made fuse block from Current Performance to power everything on the motor. You could extend the lines and hide the block inside or just leave it in the engine bay.
www.currentperformance.com
SA-1500 Stand Alone Fuse/Relay Module
This is our small fuse/relay module that is used on all of our bare bones Stand-alone Wiring harnesses that simply need to make an engine run. Buy now.
www.currentperformance.com
Mike Shull
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- #59
Thanks for the offer, @afraptor22 . I might hit you up in a few months. I will decide whether I want to tackle the LS harness, or just buy a new one once I get the engine situated in the bay. Thanks for the link, too! I was looking for a good auxiliary fuse block.
Let me know if you need help modifying the LS harness. I have done a few. I usually use a pre-made fuse block from Current Performance to power everything on the motor. You could extend the lines and hide the block inside or just leave it in the engine bay.
SA-1500 Stand Alone Fuse/Relay Module
This is our small fuse/relay module that is used on all of our bare bones Stand-alone Wiring harnesses that simply need to make an engine run. Buy now.
