Oil Cooler - $500
Crankshaft - $1650
IP Rebuild - $2300
Injector Rebuild - $600
ISSPRO EGT and Boost Gauges - $400
Piston Kit - $1550
Oil Pump kit - $600
TB Kit with misc hoses and accessories - $500
OEM Connecting Rod - $350
GTurbo - $2250
Machinist labour - $800
Build labour - $3600
This was a conservative rebuild. There was a s***load of other stuff that caught up to me over the course of owning an 80 series, which ended up putting me at about $30k invested into the HDJ81 I bought for $10k.
I recently sold it for $15k, which I considered a home-run. Given that diesel is 30c more per litre where I live than regular gas, the cost of parts is insane, etc etc. I'm in the camp of gas V8 > diesel I6.
You really don't hear of 2UZFE failures. Any diesel tuner I spoke with always referred to Toyota diesels as glass motors. I never got excellent mileage out of my 1HD-T, it never made impressive power, but that could've been the result of the build. The builder timed the IP by ear/visual. When I bought the proper SST and checked it, it was retarded way below spec. Even when I dialed it in at 1.35, it smoked like mad, wasn't terribly powerful and was no more economical than my 100 series.
YMMV, but my conclusion is that there's a lot of hype around Toyota diesels that isn't necessarily warranted. I think it's quite telling that the ICON builds never use a diesel - and these are unlimited budget restos - the customers spending big bucks aren't interested, and Jonathan says the only people requesting diesels are the commentators on youtube.
I would give the 1HD another go, but only as a 1HD-FTE in a 100 series. Don't get me wrong, I think diesels are just as cool as the next guy, but having a lot of first hand experience has made me question whether it is warranted, practical and necessary.
But then again - I also bought an 80 thinking I was gonna do this crazy wheeling, when in reality my 100 will take me anywhere I'll ever want to go. Expectations vs reality.
@CJGuy Welcome to the club. Rebuilding isn't too bad, but waiting for parts and work to be done is the worst. So the virus made it all that much more difficult. Honestly my engine probably could have used some head work and maybe a timing advance and been good. But I got tired of dealing with mechanics who knew less than me, or wanted to charge the world. Had a PO that insisted the rings were bad (they weren't) and a multiple conflicting compression checks. At that point I decided to dig in and get to know the engine with my own eyes/hands. No regrets so far, but it's a hard time to build an overseas engine.
I have zipdoa's old 80 now, and I sure can appreciate all the work done to the engine. It's my first 80 but I've been on trails and in the bush with dozens of different rigs, and this thing out performs them all. It'll run circles around the Cherokees I go wheeling with, which have a similar displacement gas engine, and solidly out performs YJs and Tacomas too. I've been tracking kilometres for the last 5000 or so km and the average is around 13L/100 km, which I find more than acceptable for a heavy rig with bigger tires and several hundred pounds of trail armour on it. That being said, I sure don't want to be the fella that has to do the next rebuild on this engine, if it gets that far
@lelandEOD Im really sorry to hear that news. Your experience has me pretty nervous. Plan was to immediately drive it to some steep mountain grades and do hard pulls for a while (I-70 up to Floyd Hill if you're familiar with Denver area). I think I need to collect some more data before I do anything. What did you end up doing for break-in?
Yeah, it's pretty heart breaking; even more so since I've only got a couple theories as to what I could have done wrong.
I'm going to start my own thread on the re-rebuild (just as soon as I can wrap my head around the idea of re-rebuilding this engine) and I'll include every detail I can think of regarding how I "thought" I was correctly breaking-in the motor.
Basically, I ran break-in mineral oil for the first 500 miles. I pushed the engine as hard as I could (pedal to the floor whenever possible to achieve max boost). I varied the RPMs constantly as I drove and kept it at high idle as much as possible when stopped. I "thought" I was adequately putting the engine under a load but now wonder if what I did was sufficient. The first few weeks I had it on the road were really cold here and I didn't (still don't) have hard doors. That kept me from heading straight for the nearest mountain pass so I was largely driving it on the flats and highways around my house in the valley. I expressed some concern to a few diesel buddies about not putting it under an extreme load and was reassured I was over thinking it and that spirited driving was all that would be required to seat the rings.
The short list of potential culprits include:
-Insufficient engine load during break-in
-Incorrect hone job for ring material
-Incorrect/insufficient engine assembly (prep/cleaning procedure of cylinder walls)
-Over-rich/Incorrect IP setting leading to varnishing in the first few minutes of run-in
-Breather tube recycling vapor into combustion chamber exacerbating any of the afore mentioned conditions and washing cylinder walls from the piston tops with oil residue?
-??? God only knows what else...
I've got a diesel compression tester coming in the mail so I'm going to check all 6 holes before doing anything rash, but at this point, it looks more and more like I'm going to be tearing it down again in the next few months.
On the bright side of things, I'll have a rare opportunity to examine the interior of a freshly rebuilt motor!
The compression test should give you an idea.
Apparently overrun driving is important too.
Does it smoke from the exhaust?
What you have done doesn't sound horrific imo.
Have you a video of the back pressure?
I just spoke to my machinist. His recommendation is based more on Cummins engines, but I thought I'd share:
- 15-20 minutes running at 1500-1700 RPMs, parked w/ no load, to check for any issues before hitting the road, let it cool and check for any loose parts
- Don't hit the highway. Vary RPMs, get on it, drive it. Multiple runs up to speed from full stop
- Run 4-5 hours, or 200-250 miles on first oil change
- Use non synthetic oil w/ zinc additive